Quick Time 9"...

Chuck Leeper

8/10's of a century!
Staff member
May 28, 2001
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Just got the last 2 boxes of parts. Now comes the fun....Putting it together.:D
Nod hsg, 3.50 gear, Grizzley locker, 35 spl axles, Daytona pinion carrier, billet yoke. I stuck w/ the 2.250 x 11" drum brakes. The hydraboost @2100psi, combined w/ adj prop valve will put the whoa on this turd
The main hsg is new, and has the billet ends on it. [They had it on sale for $100/add-on.] Also got the fill/drain/jack pad deal, & the multi hole lower brackets.
I'm matching this up w/ a set of Viking shocks, Spohn upper/lowers w/ the Delrin ends.
The arb is a single Wolfe.
Now, if I can puff enough air into the LS 5.7, it may just be a decent street car.:smuggrin:

I sold the 8.5 for $900, so this setup @$2400 delivered, appears to be a reasonable cost.:cool:

The supplier was ok to deal with, and delivered on time. The welds and finish quality are nice. (y)
 

Scott Atk

Senior Member
May 25, 2001
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I loved that setup, mine was very similar to yours. My only beef was the funky angle at the lower shock mounts. Hopefully they've corrected it by now, if not, it proved to be a non-issue, just put a lot of stress on the lower shock mount bushing.
 

Chuck Leeper

8/10's of a century!
Staff member
May 28, 2001
11,945
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Madison, Ga.
I loved that setup, mine was very similar to yours. My only beef was the funky angle at the lower shock mounts. Hopefully they've corrected it by now, if not, it proved to be a non-issue, just put a lot of stress on the lower shock mount bushing.
Scott, thanks for the heads up. I have a stock rear end and will do a compare B4 finishing it up.
Nothing like chopping up new parts to make them fit!:rolleyes:
 

T- Type Tim

Vice Chairman
Jul 8, 2001
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Chandler AZ
Quick time 9"? or quick performance 9"?

I finally got mine on the street and heat cycled the gears a few times.....I'm liking the disc brakes in the rear a lot.
 

Chuck Leeper

8/10's of a century!
Staff member
May 28, 2001
11,945
1,587
113
Madison, Ga.
Quick time 9"? or quick performance 9"?

I finally got mine on the street and heat cycled the gears a few times.....I'm liking the disc brakes in the rear a lot.
Quick Time, Quick Perf... All the same to me.:D
Is your's quiet?
[we have 2 cars w/ Johns Perf 9" assys, and are having to change the r&p on both, due to noise, and leaks..](n)
 
C

coach

Guest
Hey Chuck,
What the difference in driveshaft lengths from the 8.5 to the 9"? I may be in for this in the near future and just got a new shaft from Denny for the 8.5.
 

turbobitt

Well-Known Member
Feb 14, 2002
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Southington CT
Quick Time, Quick Perf... All the same to me.:D
Is your's quiet?
[we have 2 cars w/ Johns Perf 9" assys, and are having to change the r&p on both, due to noise, and leaks..](n)
Sorry to get off topic but I have some suggestions on places were one may not tend to look on the leaks. I'm finding quality issues with my housing that I'm correcting now. FYI - not a Quick performance housing.
AG.
 

Chuck Leeper

8/10's of a century!
Staff member
May 28, 2001
11,945
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Madison, Ga.
Hey Chuck,
What the difference in driveshaft lengths from the 8.5 to the 9"? I may be in for this in the near future and just got a new shaft from Denny for the 8.5.
I've not installed and measured for a shaft.
I have a 4L80E trans, so the measurements may be different, depending on the trans U R using.
 

T- Type Tim

Vice Chairman
Jul 8, 2001
1,530
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No noise yet
have about 10 easy miles on it
No leaks. .... Going to put about 15 more miles on it with 2 heat cycles and call it good

As for the drive shaft I had mine lengthened exactly .75"
 

turbobitt

Well-Known Member
Feb 14, 2002
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Mind posting where you are finding these issues??
Yes I can. Just didn't want to hijack your thread.
I had a leak that was really bothering me. When I removed the center section, I filled the bottom of the housing with ATF to check for bad welds. What I did find was fluid leaking from around the studs. This didn't surprise me but what I found next did. I decided to remove the pressed in studs to make an attempt to seal them and found all sorts of raised material around the holes(See first 2 pictures). This material would never allow the center section to sit flat. I couldn't see this until I started running a flat file across the surface and glad I did. In addition to correcting the sealing surface, I chamfered the holes slightly(See last picture) to prevent and material from being raised when the studs are reinstalled. As a additional preventative step, I'm going to install new ARP studs with Loctite sealer because the studs removed looked to have compromised knurls from the original install.
AG.
 

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C

coach

Guest
No noise yet
have about 10 easy miles on it
No leaks. .... Going to put about 15 more miles on it with 2 heat cycles and call it good

As for the drive shaft I had mine lengthened exactly .75"
Thank you.
 

Chuck Leeper

8/10's of a century!
Staff member
May 28, 2001
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Thanks for the info!
I opted for a new hsg, but am going to do the same to it, B4 I have to pull it back apart.:(
[I was thinking about a sealer on the studs, but didn't make a choice, yet.] Might you recall what Loctite number you used?
Quick instructions say no gasket, only a silicone type sealer..Y/N?? Maybe, Right Stuff, or??
 

turbobitt

Well-Known Member
Feb 14, 2002
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Thanks for the info!
I opted for a new hsg, but am going to do the same to it, B4 I have to pull it back apart.:(
[I was thinking about a sealer on the studs, but didn't make a choice, yet.] Might you recall what Loctite number you used?
Quick instructions say no gasket, only a silicone type sealer..Y/N?? Maybe, Right Stuff, or??
My housing was new from Strange when I originally installed it 8 years ago and leaked from day one. I think this is the result of poor workmanship installing the studs. I haven't reassembled it yet so I can't give you any feedback on success. Was thinking of using Loctite 518 gasket eliminator or maybe just plain RTV ultra grey but leaning more toward the Loctite product. Whatever I use will be better than nothing. In my opinion, I would use a Felpro gasket with a thin film of RTV ultra grey on both sides. Previously I only had a gasket with no sealer and with the uneven surface and raised material it leaked.
This is just one of many workmanship issues I had with the housing. Since it was custom made for my application, It was new when I got it so I spent countless hours cleaning, grinding, chipping out all the excess weld spatter, mig/tig wire on the interior and exterior.
AG.
 

Chuck Leeper

8/10's of a century!
Staff member
May 28, 2001
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Madison, Ga.
DAMN! I guess that's why they call it "a kit"....You have the basics, now make it work....:(
We refer to "kits" as a pile of parts where 1 size fits nothing.:rolleyes:
The directions also say not to use the inner seal, as the brgs are sealed. When I open the box, there's a loose seal on each axle..:rolleyes:
 

turbobitt

Well-Known Member
Feb 14, 2002
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Southington CT
DAMN! I guess that's why they call it "a kit"....You have the basics, now make it work....:(
We refer to "kits" as a pile of parts where 1 size fits nothing.:rolleyes:
The directions also say not to use the inner seal, as the brgs are sealed. When I open the box, there's a loose seal on each axle..:rolleyes:
I should also add that if you chose to remove your studs like I did, carefully inspect the backside of the holes for weld spatter near the stud seating area. This will make the studs not sit flat.......
AG.
 

Chuck Leeper

8/10's of a century!
Staff member
May 28, 2001
11,945
1,587
113
Madison, Ga.
I should also add that if you chose to remove your studs like I did, carefully inspect the backside of the holes for weld spatter near the stud seating area. This will make the studs not sit flat.......
AG.
The hsg shipped w/ the studs out. I just looked at the back side...Several have burrs on them. [Not for long!]
FWIW, Just talked to Quick Perf.Permatex has just released a new sealant that is formulated for differential lube. The pt # is 81182

THANKS!
 

turbobitt

Well-Known Member
Feb 14, 2002
2,385
370
83
47
Southington CT
The hsg shipped w/ the studs out. I just looked at the back side...Several have burrs on them. [Not for long!]
FWIW, Just talked to Quick Perf.Permatex has just released a new sealant that is formulated for differential lube. The pt # is 81182

THANKS!
Great ! Sounds like you have an opportunity to make the corrections before assembly. It sucks when you trust the experts to do a good job only to find otherwise.
AG.
 
C

coach

Guest
Yes I can. Just didn't want to hijack your thread.
I had a leak that was really bothering me. When I removed the center section, I filled the bottom of the housing with ATF to check for bad welds. What I did find was fluid leaking from around the studs. This didn't surprise me but what I found next did. I decided to remove the pressed in studs to make an attempt to seal them and found all sorts of raised material around the holes(See first 2 pictures). This material would never allow the center section to sit flat. I couldn't see this until I started running a flat file across the surface and glad I did. In addition to correcting the sealing surface, I chamfered the holes slightly(See last picture) to prevent and material from being raised when the studs are reinstalled. As a additional preventative step, I'm going to install new ARP studs with Loctite sealer because the studs removed looked to have compromised knurls from the original install.
AG.
Hey Allen,
Use a countersink in a drill motor, and add about a 0.05 champher on the gasket side of your NODULAR HOUSING. This will allow a space for the displaced material to pull into when tightened. If you file it away, it just becomes thinner and will prob do the same thing. You could cheat and install set screws with washers and nuts instead of the ARP studs, but you would have to epoxy them into place. The washer would provide greater surface to displace the torque applied when tightening. The mounting surface must be too thin to start with .
Give me a call if you need and we can hash out different thoughts.
Good luck.
 
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