rear springs for dragracing

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

DR BOOST

Technical advisor
Joined
Aug 2, 2001
Messages
2,662
here is my combo
1. g80 rear with moser axles and girdle
2. h&r rear sway bar
3 h&r 1/4 inch longer lower arms
4. boxed upper
5. variable rate springs
6. two empty airbags with spacers
7. comp eng. drag shocks
8. front drag springs and 90/10 shocks
9. no front swaybar


here is my situation

the rear of my car will barely move up and down. It is very stiff over bumps. i thought it was the drags shocks, so i replaced them with some old tired el cheapos.
SAME PROBLEM

but... when i looked at the coil spring while it was on the rack, all the tightly wound coils on the spring were touching.

should i replace the springs with some stock replacements?

some "experts" say the rear end should be stiff during a launch, others say it should squat.

i cant leave at zero psi without lighting up the warmed up drag radials.

thanks

surej
 
if i was you.. i would get the Moog replacement cargo springs. just about every local car from the 12s rides to the 10s rides have them..

others will chime in and say otherwise but untill i see proof otherwise the MOOG are the way to go.
 
thanks grim.

with the moog cargo springs, is the ride rock hard? i think im gonna fracture my coccyx one of these days
 
Originally posted by DR BOOST
thanks grim.

with the moog cargo springs, is the ride rock hard? i think im gonna fracture my coccyx one of these days

your welcome,


NOPE, its a lot better then the stock srings. its firm but not stiff or harse (its late is that how you spell it)

one thing i have always wanted to know is how the JB weld ons are doing? i have always wanted to do that but i cant really justify the expense of the jb weld
 
let me see....right now, nothing is jb welded. my alky nozzle was for a while until i found an alternate method to install it.

jb weld is not even 5 bucks and is strong as heck.

i know of one person on this board who jb welded his starter on because he left water in his rad ovver the winter and it cracked right off. about 8 years and 50,000 miles and its still hanging on!

hth surej
 
I'll second the moog springs they ride great just had mine installed this week with the kyb shocks the car feels better then new.
 
Anyone got the part number for the moog cargo springs or where i could get a set and how much?
 
discoonect the hr bar, it makes it ride stiff, see if it makes a difference
 
i'll second norbs.
stay away from cargo springs get moroso trick springs they will allow the rear to squat to keep weight transfered longer during launch = less spin = better 60' = better et
cargo springs are for towing not launching at track.
also get better tires drag radials are good on street you need slicks at track.
 
cars do not need to "squat" at the drag strip (they need to transfer weight efficiently)

the cargo springs are the best with a mostly stock suspension on the street and strip

I have been around cars with the Morosso's and I wouldn't put them on my car on a bet!

BTW, my car runs straight and consistent 1.4x 60' times on 9" slicks........(boxed lowers, ATR bar, drag shocks in front, no front bar)

and it weighs 3700+ lbs
 
Yea Dr. Boost- I know we talked about this already, but azgn has got it right (obviously by his 60' time). Also, my last WE4 car (which had a ton of other problems) with a 4000 stall in a TH350 trans did 1.50 60' times, and the suspension was 100% stock. All I did was remove the sway bar. I did have a GN with moroso drag springs all the was around, and the only reason I put that in the car was that it came with lowering springs. I quickly ditched the rears for stock replacements, and was amazed at the improvement.

PS-I still have those flares for ya, talk to you soon-

Cliff
 
Originally posted by gnxis
i'll second norbs.
stay away from cargo springs get moroso trick springs they will allow the rear to squat to keep weight transfered longer during launch = less spin = better 60' = better et.
Sorry, but this statement is incorrect. The squatting is due to the rear control arm geometry yanking the rearend off the ground basically unloading the tires on the launch. You don't want the rear to squat or plant into the ground..

hth's
ks:cool:
 
maybe its because i had trick springs in the front, but when i put in some rusty old cutlass stock springs, it hooks.

the moog springs had the car at too steep of a rake to transfer weight.


thanks to all who helped.

surej
 
Congrats! -Stock junk kicks ass!

87 GN
Stock: long block, trans, rear, suspension......
 
keep your eye on those "old" springs.....although they work well, we have had some instances where hard launches totally compress the springs (and they stay that way....) and bad things happen......this was on older springs

and yes, I have the cargo coils on my car (not Moog, GM)
 
I think v6beast sully has gone from 1.6 short times to 1.4 short times by REMOVING the cargo coils and going back to stock springs. I'm not sure how the cargos work in some cars and not others.
 
Back
Top