Rear swaybar feedback/opnions!!!

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Which Swaybar do you like/prefer?

  • ATR Rear Swaybar

    Votes: 25 28.4%
  • HRStuffNParts

    Votes: 52 59.1%
  • Other (please specify)

    Votes: 11 12.5%

  • Total voters
    88
  • Poll closed .

graza002

Nucking Futs
Joined
Dec 28, 2005
Messages
1,474
I am in the market to buy a rear swaybar, What do you guys have/opnions?

I am currently looking at ATR and HRpartsNstuff, any others you guys can think of please let me know!!!!

Thanks,
Andrew
 
Oopse

:o

Sorry guys I, I am a little backwards, and didnt preview the poll before hitting submit, Sorry guys it's not HRStuffNParts its HRpartsNstuff....lol Again, Sorry guys...

Andrew
 
Bought one from Full throttle
With the UMI control arms nice stuff at a good price
 
I was looking at Spohn stuff but havent bought anything yet waiting to see what others might say but i think i may get this stuff after i get my engine put back together. I just dont know what to get yet cuz its a street car but i need to hook up.



Spohn Performance, Inc.
 
Andrew:
You have mail.
Drag / street race= HRPartsNStuff $ 500 set-up or Spohn's current $ 400 set-up, out now:

G-body Spohn rear sway bar on SCandC.com - Pro-Touring.com

Street use= HRPartsNStuff $ 500 set-up, or the new $ 400 Spohn street set-up coming out shortly

HRPartsNStuff are TB.com supporting vendors / suppliers
Brian at GBodyParts also sells / markets the HRPartsNStuff bar and is also a TB.com supporting supplier / vendor and had a few in stock a few days ago.

Savitske Classic & Custom, (SC&C), who will be handling the Spohn set-up are not TB.com supporting vendors / suppliers, afaik.
 
I was looking at Spohn stuff but havent bought anything yet waiting to see what others might say but i think i may get this stuff after i get my engine put back together. I just dont know what to get yet cuz its a street car but i need to hook up.



Spohn Performance, Inc.



You guys read my mind, that was my next question....but it sounds like not too many people have used or seen Spohn yet. :confused:
 
Andrew:
You have mail.
Drag / street race= HRPartsNStuff $ 500 set-up or Spohn's current $ 400 set-up, out now:

G-body Spohn rear sway bar on SCandC.com - Pro-Touring.com

Street use= HRPartsNStuff $ 500 set-up, or the new $ 400 Spohn street set-up coming out shortly

HRPartsNStuff are TB.com supporting vendors / suppliers
Brian at GBodyParts also sells / markets the HRPartsNStuff bar and is also a TB.com supporting supplier / vendor and had a few in stock a few days ago.

Savitske Classic & Custom, (SC&C), who will be handling the Spohn set-up are not TB.com supporting vendors / suppliers, afaik.


Thanks Gary,

I know a few of the So-Cal guys are running the HR set-up and it seems likethey like it. I know Harold and I think Brent have the HR set-up and can not say enought good things about it.


To everyone else thanks for the info...sorry to be short, at work and someone is calling 911. I will be back......
 
I'm supporting my vendor's. When we lose their love we might as well trade'em in? I'm saving for my hr bar now.
 
Quality Part

HRPartsNStuff sway bar is well worth the money and Dave is a great guy to deal with. I run around with no front sway and without it the car didn't like curves but now with the bar it handles great around curves. Fast lane changes are a breeze to...wish i would have bought one sooner........Bob
 
How about "NO REAR SWAY BAR"
Save the money and buy Global West suspension parts. Here is my story.

I took my beat up 87 Turbo T, and ran it against a 2005 Z06 Corvette and a 2006 Z06 Corvette in a local auto slalom this past summer. At first, they wouldn't even talk to me. But after I ran the course and came in 1 and 3 seconds behind them in time, they were shocked and then wanted to talk to me. Further, when they found out I wasn't running a rear sway bar, they **** themselves. Keep in mind I was also running 20 year old (outdated ready to head to the dumpster) 225/50/16 Goodyear Gatorbacks. Nope, I am not making this up folks, there are other turbo buick witnesses to prove it.

In a previous car life, I used to own a 67 Cougar with a 428 big block up front that would turn over 1g on the skid pad. It was a Global West suspension car and again had no rear sway bar. And no, I don't work for Global West, I am way up in Canada, far from California. (They don't really shine in customer service or price........but they sure know how to make old cars handle).

I know this is a radical departure from the current beliefs and will probably invoke many heated replies, but this is my experience. I will give an open challenge to anyone who wants to take their G-body (with any brand of rear sway bar) up against my Turbo Buick in an auto slalom. Be warned, I might cheat though and buy some newer rubber.
 
How about "NO REAR SWAY BAR"
Save the money and buy Global West suspension parts. Here is my story.

I took my beat up 87 Turbo T, and ran it against a 2005 Z06 Corvette and a 2006 Z06 Corvette in a local auto slalom this past summer. At first, they wouldn't even talk to me. But after I ran the course and came in 1 and 3 seconds behind them in time, they were shocked and then wanted to talk to me. Further, when they found out I wasn't running a rear sway bar, they **** themselves. Keep in mind I was also running 20 year old (outdated ready to head to the dumpster) 225/50/16 Goodyear Gatorbacks. Nope, I am not making this up folks, there are other turbo buick witnesses to prove it.

In a previous car life, I used to own a 67 Cougar with a 428 big block up front that would turn over 1g on the skid pad. It was a Global West suspension car and again had no rear sway bar. And no, I don't work for Global West, I am way up in Canada, far from California. (They don't really shine in customer service or price........but they sure know how to make old cars handle).

I know this is a radical departure from the current beliefs and will probably invoke many heated replies, but this is my experience. I will give an open challenge to anyone who wants to take their G-body (with any brand of rear sway bar) up against my Turbo Buick in an auto slalom. Be warned, I might cheat though and buy some newer rubber.


Wow, nice story. I think your right, you may get some heated replys, but what the hell, it makes these things fun.

I sure dont doubt that your car handles like a mofo, but I priced global west, and a I will need some major $$ to get my car to your level. HR has been running individuals about 500ish + or - depending on the options. A whole GW set up is looking to be in the thousands, but like I stated before, I like the imput, and what the heck its an open fourm.

Andrew
 
You are totally correct about the price issue, my suspension setup with all the Global West parts, B-body spindles & 12 inch rotors... set me back a hair over the $2000 mark. I always endorse supporting the vendors on this site, as I have always had excellent service and advice from all of them. The key is to use the total packages that they recomend, not just bits and pieces from various sources like many car owners do when it comes to saving dollars. The bits & pieces idea really does not work when it comes to building a motor, and equally won't work when it comes to suspensions. A person can spend their money on top notch parts from various sources and end up with a car that handles worse than stock. Unfortunately, many novice car builders equate a stiff bone jarring rough ride as performance but does the car actually handle and perform well when actually tested and compared to a set standard.

Rear sway bars can make dramatic improvements to the way a car handles but can also make things worse. Rear sway bar diameter and type of construction, rear spring rates, type of shocks and bushing materials all have a cause-and-effect relationship with one another. That is why it is best to go with a proven package suspension from any of the vendors.

Brian has an excellent reputation within this community and if he has recommended a package and it fits within your budget, I'd go with it.

Final note, buy endorsing Global West products, I am still supporting our vendors, as John's Performance is a Global West distributor. John gives excellent customer service and has very competitive pricing on all of these components.

Best of luck with your project , and if you need any input on the installation portion, I am always willing to try to help via email. I,m no expert, but have spent many hours swearing and sometimes bleeding underneath these cars and might be able to offer some tips.

Best Regards,
Trevor
 
I,m no expert, but have spent many hours swearing and sometimes bleeding underneath these cars and might be able to offer some tips.

Best Regards,
Trevor

If I had a dollar for everytime I started to bleed and swear under my cars...well do the math, Id have enough money to buy a GNX...lol:biggrin: Thanks for the help, I am sure I will be contacting you guys when the time is right.
 
I don't think it's fair to compare a bar that cost $150 to one that cost $500. If you are on a budget, the ATR bar is a great improvement. If you have the extra $, then go for the HR bar.
 
I don't think it's fair to compare a bar that cost $150 to one that cost $500. If you are on a budget, the ATR bar is a great improvement. If you have the extra $, then go for the HR bar.


I agree with you, but in past cars I have built, the more expensive set-up was junk, meaning poor ride, a pain to install, noisy bushings...etc. Sometimes the part that costs the least is better.

The whole point of this is to see what people think....being that I am on the newer side of the turbo Buick world, I like to hear feed back, because I don't like throwing parts on my car just to say I have something done.

You are correct, the HR bar is quite a bit more, and the ATR is and would be better than stock. I am willing to shell out the extra $$ if people have a good exp. with customer service, and quality of part. At this point to say that I have a budget would be silly....because we all know these cars will drain your time and wallet. LOL.
 
well here is my story


my car currently has a 36MM hallow sway bar up front and the stock sway bar in the back with boxed lower arms with fresh bushings.


This thing corners like a dream. I really think the larger sway bar on the back. the ones that conect to the lower control arm really upset the suspension in the back when the rear end needs to conform to the road. drag racing is one thing but i want it to handle on the street as well.

a sway bar, springs, and shocks are all really just tuning tools

Can you run a heavy bar in the back and have it handle better? Yes,
but it depends on the rest of your combination.

Like someone said earlier, the heavier the bar the more you keep the
car level at the expense of unloading the inner tire. You will also
transmit any bumps you hit mid turn to both tires with a bigger bar
more so than with a smaller bar. If you drive a car with a huge rear
sway bar and no front sway bar youll find it immedately wants to
oversteer which is the inverse of a car with a front bar and no rear
bar. Youll also find that on less than perfect pavement and hard
turns you will quickly find how a bump will upset the back end much
more quickly than if you were running a smaller bar.

If you want better handling your best bet is to get stiffer springs,
bigger front bar, and probably the stock rear bar. With a soft
spring and big bar combo you get similar roll characteristics but
more brake dive and rear end squat. All that weight transitioning
fore and aft is not good for handling. for example, late braking a
turn with lets say a big rear sway bar and soft springs. You will
get dive which unloads the rear, and then when you turn, you have
compounded the likelyhood that you will oversteer because you have a
relatively large rear sway bar.

in all the performance handling buildups I have ever seen with
actual data in reference to G bodies and F bodies they always use
either a stock rear bar or an even smaller than stock rear bar and
go for the heavier springs.

Anyway, its all a tuning tool. You cant just assume that because its
bigger it will be better for handling. It may feel better in the
turns because of less body roll, but if you still have the stock
front bar or no bar you are much more likely to induce some nasty
oversteer.

this probably doesnt apply to 99% of the folks on this forum who
dont really push their cars in the twisties to that point anyway
 
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