Rebuild Finally

[captndave737]

Well finally after having the car down with a blown engine for 2 1/2 years I've begun tearing into it and getting ready to rebuild it. Some stock stuff for sale. Couldn't do anything for a long time after completely tearing 3 tendons in my rotator cuff and a bicep tendon. I almost sold it because I was discouraged. I almost sold it and i'm glad I didn't.

Heres the plan: Champion ported irons, .10 over, Girdled block with billet mains, 9.5:1 with pistons from Earl Brown, Forged stock stroke crank, Roller Cam (no Idea which yet), Roller rockers (1:55 I think), TA Headers and 3"DP, 6262 Turbo by Bison, Razor's Alky through Bison's Plenum spacer, Port matched intake, Precision SLIC.

I'm keeping it a street machine but want to be able to light it up any time. I'll be putting on sticky tires and have some suspension mods. looking for whatever advice is out there.

 

[Nigel]

Ask Bison for advice, especially on the cam and get his advice on a converter. ALWAYS run M/T ET streets or better with the new build!

 

[earlbrown]

Will your block hone clean at .005" over? That might save you a bit of money and time.

 

[1952ray]

Ask Bison for advice, especially on the cam and get his advice on a converter. ALWAYS run M/T ET streets or better with the new build!

Yes, Bison is the man with the cam !!!

 

[captndave737]

Will your block hone clean at .005" over? That might save you a bit of money and time.

Never thought of that. I thought .010 was the best option. Would the pistons be .005 over as well in that case?

 

[captndave737]

Any one have suggestions on rocker ratios? 1:55 or 1:65? Would the higher ratio only affect top end?

 

[Jerryl]

"I" would totally skip the girdle.
Too many headaches and doesn't add strength to a 109.

Not sure if rockers make a whole lot of difference if the valve lift is correct. Unless you build max out but, I could be wrong.

Key is:
Get the whole package from one vendor that has a repeatable and proven recipe, and don't shop on price, or piece it together.

Good luck with the build.

 

[dynoman]

I notice your real close to RC's garage , they know a few things about turbo 6's .

 

[dank GN]

Ask Bison for advice, especially on the cam and get his advice on a converter. ALWAYS run M/T ET streets or better with the new build!

es
You have to buy the cam from him in order to get his advice correct?

 

[dank GN]

Any one have suggestions on rocker ratios? 1:55 or 1:65? Would the higher ratio only affect top end?

I personally had great luck with nick Arizona gn recommend a 210/214 roller for me when I was at the same stage you are . A 210/210 , 212/212 would all work great for you in my opinion . I would also gonwith the 1:65 rocker . Agian just my 2 cents doesn't mean much

 

[Nigel]

es
You have to buy the cam from him in order to get his advice correct?

I would imagine so, but looks like captndave is already planning to shop with Bison. We have a lot of good vendors and no problem with supporting any of them, but my next major purchase like a turbo (or other stuff if it comes to a rebuild) ... I will go to Bison. He has shared a ton of specific engine/turbo/cam data and knowledge on this board. Also, how to pick out a torque converter advice. All for no charge. Just my recommendation.

 

[earlbrown]

Never thought of that. I thought .010 was the best option. Would the pistons be .005 over as well in that case?

If .005 over will clean up all the bores, the block can go straight into the honing machine without getting charged extra (along with not having to pay for a bore job). The other cool thing about 5 over is you can use plain ole STD rings that are 'file fit'.

That's all academic until you actually stick a bore gauge in the holes and see what you have.

 

[captndave737]

If .005 over will clean up all the bores, the block can go straight into the honing machine without getting charged extra (along with not having to pay for a bore job). The other cool thing about 5 over is you can use plain ole STD rings that are 'file fit'.

That's all academic until you actually stick a bore gauge in the holes and see what you have.

Thanks for the clarification.

 

[captndave737]

I'm hoping to pull the engine Monday. I have all the accessories off and only the fuel return line and grounds on the back of the cylinder head to go.

I've ordered GN1 ported irons, GN1 Crank, Harland sharp Roller rockers, Molner Rods. Cam, lifters and 6265 turbo all spec' by Bison. Bison's trick alky spacer plate. And some other odds and ends. Can't wait to dig into it after 30 years. Unfortunately I'm off on a trip next Tuesday for 3 weeks.

I'll be taking lots of pics of this project.

 

[earlbrown]

I've found it's easiest to pull the entire manifold as one unit. Base, plenum, fuel rail and all.

 

[captndave737]

Pulled the engine Wednesday and broke it down Thursday. I never knew what a spun bearing was but I think I found out. The #6 Rod bearing was shot. When I took the cap off the cap end of the bearing was under the rod end and there was almost nothing left to either piece. Everything else looked pretty good.

I'll be taking the block to RCG to see what machine work it needs. Certainly a line bore since i'm putting in Billet mains and a girdle.

some parts that have come in, Forged stock stroke crank, Turbo and Cam spec'd by Bison, Bison's Alky Plenum spacer,Johnson limited travel lifters and a timing set.. Still waiting on a bunch of stuff.

 

[captndave737]

I have some questions and pictures of what going on.
1.First the #6 rod bearing was spun and virtually gone while the rest of the rod bearings were within .002" thickness compared to new. #5 on the left and #6 on the right. What would cause that?
2. The thickness of all the main bearings were within .001" measured against new ones but the Thrust surface on the thrust bearing was shot and the Crank was rubbing against the #1 main bearing boss which is worn .026" What would cause this?
3. Will this wear mean I can't use the block even though the bearing is completely supported?

 

[captndave737]

I got my GN1 Ported Iron Heads. The EGR passage is closed. Is there any advantage to removing the EGR tower in the intake and Plenum and filling the hole? Will it screw up or help air distribution?

 

[earlbrown]

.002" thinner is a LOT. That means that you had an extra .004" on top of the initial clearance. In the Buick's case, that's double to triple the clearance.


That's some serious thrust wear. Did the thrust bearing flange completely vanish and the crank hit the block?

 

[captndave737]

I haven't built an engine since the 70's so i guess i'm out of touch on how bad the wear was. I do have the Factory Manuals though so I have the specs. I had built a cover to your specs and the pressure was still on the low side so now I know why.

The thrust flange was worn to .061 as opposed to .090 on the new ones I have. With the crank eating into the block .026 it looks like it only took .003 wear on the thrust bearing before the crank started hitting the block. A light knock started when I was out running errands with my wife and I only drove (gently for the first time ever) 4 miles home. By then the knock was severe.