Running rich and kr

blacknight80

Active Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2013
Ok now I'm working on the next problem. I am happy with all my numbers on the scan tool except 02.

Iac-20
TPS - .43
LV8-35
BLM-118
INT-128
MAF-5
RPM-775-850

02-950-980
02 cross count doesn't do anything. It will jump for a second on start up and that's all.
Wideband- 13.3

FP- 43lbs line on. I think it was 37 line off.

After idling it for a few minutes it smells like I was out on an old two stroke ski doo for the day. The rpm flare around 800 rmp over when I go from drive to neutral/park. I have to wait 15-30 seconds for it to drop down before I put it back in drive. What would cause this?

The KR has me baffled. I tried to roll into it while in second (I have 3 speed) and I get crazy retard anything beyond 1/8 to 1/4 throttle. I'm running around 17 lbs of boost and I cannot get it lower. I'm running my waste gate tuner style with an rjc reg. I am going to disconnect the actuator arm from the waste gate tomorrow and see what happens with no good at all. I have the alky cranked to 8 and it doesn't touch the kr. My wide band shows it going slightly leaner into the transition 13.8 - 14.4 but after the transition it's in the low 12s. Seems like there is lots of fuel and I wouldn't expect any knock. I just replaced the 02 with a denso. What do you think may be my problem.

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Well I noticed the p/n switch was out if adjustment so fixed that and it reduced the flare up but not completely. KR is better with the reduced boost.....duh. I'm going to lower it some more today and see if it goes away completely. Still running rich though.

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Kr is gone with some waste gate adjusting but rich as ever. I am going to put some miles on it and see if it sorts itself out.

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fuel pressure should be set with the vac line off not on


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I've just never heard of the base fuel pressure being set that low... usually I read about people setting it to 43-45, on gasoline. and even higher on e85. plus if you set it to 37 with the line off, it would be lower when you connect the line because of the vacuum at idle.


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Ya you are right I mixed up my numbers for line on and line off. I'll double check tomorrow and get the actual number

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gotcha that makes more sense, lol. another thing that stuck out to me is the alky dialed all the way up? make sure the chip you're using it burnt for your combo. a/f in the 12-14 range seems incredible lean for a car on alky


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It's burnt for alky. Since I lengthened the actuator I am now running it around 4 with no kr. The rich numbers are mostly during idle and low rpm driving when the alky isn't activated. Keep the ideas coming I am at a loss. I appreciate it.

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I wouldn't change the dial based on how much boost you're gonna be running. is that what you've been doing? have you tried leaving it on the 6 like suggested? for most applications 6 works fine.

if your issue now is a rich idle, then that could be an easy fix, I believe, by changing the target a/f. I know I can do it on my xfi, not sure if you could on a stock ecu. what's your a/f at idle ?


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You say the wideband reading at idle is 13.3, which is normal, not rich at all. What is the wideband saying while driving?

SInce your BLM's are on the lower side, you can try reducing fuel pressure 3-4psi from wherever you have it, to help out.
 
I drove it to work this morning (90 miles) and I'm getting KR again when I roll into it. I am very suprised seeing it was warmer last night and it was running great. It was only 41F this morning and I thought it would be loving it. It wasnt as severe as before but it's still there. My wideband is reading 14.6 (perfect) while cruising and around 12.8-13.1 while idling. It just stinks so badly when it's idling. Does it seem strange that I can't have the wastegate actuator base set so its shut? I will verify my fp and turn it down.

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Your AFR's for idle and cruise are fine, that's not causing the smell. However, I see you have a Translator, and you might be able to get the idle BLM up by tweaking a setting in the box. Open the box and see what the MAF BASE is set to. Also what MAF do you have?

On the knock, we need to determine whether its real or noise. I usually do that by running some race fuel, or a bunch of octane booster, and see if the knock actually gets better.

If it's real knock, you might want to check actual timing with a light.
 
Awesome thanks Eric! So there is some strange things with my translator. It's an old MafT + (i dont have the timing hooked up) and a 3.5 ls maf. I have to have it set to 3 inch in order for it to run decent. With it set on 3.5 my maf reading at idle was 9 and my wb was pegged, black smoke and the whole bit....proper rich. Switched it to 3 and it solved those problems. I tried multiple maf before i tried this. My maf base is set to 0.

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I wouldn't change the dial based on how much boost you're gonna be running. is that what you've been doing? have you tried leaving it on the 6 like suggested? for most applications 6 works fine.

if your issue now is a rich idle, then that could be an easy fix, I believe, by changing the target a/f. I know I can do it on my xfi, not sure if you could on a stock ecu. what's your a/f at idle ?


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I'm going to put back to 6 and workaround it. Good idea thank you

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Ok just checked my translator base is set to 3. This thing is old though v1.1. Not alot of adjustment by the looks of the back of the cover. I tried some of the 3.5 settings and it runs rough and smokes like a cat. FP was high I reset it to 43 line off. The wide band is showing 14.6 at idle now. I dropped my alky down to 5. My blm is still 118 and int is jumping around from 121 to 131.
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I had a brainwave. I've got no cat so I don't think I'll ever get fresh mountain air coming put of my tail pipe. I am going to dump a bunch of octane boost in it this weekend and see if that helps the kr. I will also verify my timing In case the reluctor shifted on the balancer.

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