scan master readings at idle

[crazygn]

here is what my new scan master says at idle, car is running rough and runs hot , like 230*. any help would be great, i think the iac is really high but its been a long time since ive tuned one.
rpm- 750-850
02's at idle-250-515
AF-04
L8-30
BAT-12.6-13.0
INT- 142-150
BL- 128
CLE-[ -39 ]
ATS-102
TPS- .42
IAC- 73
NAL- 15

One of these are codes right, does it only pull one at a time or tis there a way to check them all. Also the temp gauge on the car reads 182 but when driving runs up to 230


any help would be great guys,

 

[WarpSpeed]

Well, your IAC control is high,, i would turn the screw on the side of the throttle body IN a little until the IAC adjusts to 10-20,, it'll take a few minutes.. also, you'll need to keep the TPS between .42-.45... That'd prolly help a little.

Your voltage/ BAT is low too.. Make sure everything is off in the car, but, it's still low in my opinion. Voltage is important since these are electronically fuel injected, of course. 13.-13.4 would be good.

Low AFR, the MAF sensor is a probable faulty one. You should borrow a known good one and retest. Or you have an air leak between the MAF and the intake valves.... Sounds like a bad MAF to me. 05 would be minimum, imo

 

[crazygn]

Ok so first thing i'll set the iac and tps, make sure my belt is tight , and see if the maf peeks 255 at wot.


thanks for the help,

all what about the coolent temps, is that right , is it saying the car is -39* maybe the temp sensor is bad.

 

[rb68rr]

The last number is malfunction code 15. Coolant temperature sensor (low temp).

 

[6SENSE]

Thats what popped out the most at me when I looked at those readings. If your CTS is faulty the car will not run right if at all. The CTS is one of the sensors that the ECM uses to calculate and control ignition timing. I would swap that out first.

If there is more than one code the SM will scroll through them under MAL. So you dont have to press anything just wait and it will show all one after another.

Your saying your your gauge shows 180's and the SM shows 230? Yep, change that CTS. Could be causing a few issues.

 

[crazygn]

well the gauge show 180 at idle, and 230 when i drive it around , way to high. But the scan master says -39* my motor should be a block of ice if that was right, would that cause a lot of probles like my over heating

 

[rb68rr]

Do you have a 160* thermostat? Could be malfunctioning. Mine runs around 184* on the highway with a/c on and a 90 degree day in Texas. R.B.

 

[WarpSpeed]

I'm not sure the computer would even go to closed loop if it was really seeing a constant -39*.... Might check the grounds on back of the PS head too.

I still don't like that 04 MAF reading.


Oh yeah, do you have the baffling/air dams between the grille and radiator? If not, this will cause the car to run hot on the highway, 'cause of poor airflow through the rad.

 

[crazygn]

i checked the stat today its a 160 and it opened up in hot water. i am going to try the water pump, its making a little noise .

i'll check the ground and if thats not it i'll go biy the coolent sensors for it.

i dont have any air dam or any thing , the motors in a 84 rx7 its in my sig if the picture still works.


after i set my iac and tps the maf readings went to 6-7 , but after a drive it was back down to 04

 

[TurboShane]

230 is way to high at cruise. Does your fan come on? Have you checked your radiator.

 

[crazygn]

today it only hit 205-210 but still high for a short drive and a 160 stat. I run my elec fan when it hits like 150 and leave it on.

Rad look ok i guess, iam going to try a new rad cap and water pump and hope it fixes the problem.

 

[crazygn]

well i found that they didnt even have the two wire temp sensor for the ecm hooked up, they had the wrong one hooked up, runs better but still hot, scan master said 205 and the auto meter gauge said 220


i bought a new water pump today so i hope that helps alot.