Should I just eliminate the egr system?

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Maltman

New Member
Joined
May 24, 2001
Messages
792
I realized this after chasing my blm problems today....I'm not even using the egr with the rjc plate in!!!!

Of course, I realize this "AFTER" I put a new valve on to replace the factory one that was leaking. Doh!

So, since I'm really not doing anything with that system, should I just take the valve and solenoid off, plug the vac. line, get an egr plate, and call it good?

Do I need to have the chip reburned? Will the heated O2 still work since it ties into the solenoids power feed (will the ground still be functional)?

I guess I don't see the purpose of having the egr on the car if it isn't doing a single thing for it. :confused: The solenoid has a small leak down with applied vac. too and is the main reason I'm considering the elimination....not too mention I'm sick of the Blms hitting 150 at idle!!!
 
i would leave it on for emmisions testing reasons, they do a visual check, and if the egr is gone then you fail, and my experince has shown that every time i take something like the egr off when i need to put it back on i come up with 5 parts missing and it takes a month to get them, easier to just leave it there, but thats just my opinion
Grant
 
True...I forgot about the visual.

However, MI doesn't test right now nor have they ever. I guess I could leave it on and just plug the lines...but it looks goofy concerning asthetics.

I just realized I can't plug that vac. line anyway due to the cruise control and the heater valve lines.

I don't know....I guess I know people have removed this stuff in the past and I understand it isn't a performance issue...well, with the exception of those vac. leaks.
 
Originally posted by fast eddie
Hey Maltman,how did you car run at the track?
Ed

11.9@113

No O2 values to tune by at WOT....and it was running pig rich at the end of the 1/4 but I didn't dare cut down the fp without something to go buy.

(I'm still trying to figure that O2 issue out) :mad:
 

Very nice...thank you!! ;)

But, being the nervous guy I am I'd like approval of "what I think that message is saying":

1. Remove the egr and use a plate

2. Leave the rjc plate "untapped" = no hole

3. Find someone that will burn a chip for the correct timing and fuel adjustments....(and I could use some reference here).

....the only thing I guess I still wonder about is the solenoid and how or if I should remove it.
 
Originally posted by Maltman
Very nice...thank you!! ;)

....the only thing I guess I still wonder about is the solenoid and how or if I should remove it.

I am wondering this same thing myself.....My intake has the egr Blocked off...But I still have the solenoid plugged in...I was wondering can I unplug this and not get a code??
 
Originally posted by Maltman
3. Find someone that will burn a chip for the correct timing and fuel adjustments....(and I could use some reference here).

....the only thing I guess I still wonder about is the solenoid and how or if I should remove it.

If you going to spend the money for a good chip, you might think of doing *the package*. ie get something that's actually tuneable, and eliminates having to worry about the MAF failing. ie a Translator Plus. Do that, get an extender, and be done with it. Ya, it gets into some money this way, but you get to kill alot of birds for your money.
 
The only benefit of EGR is it lowers peak combustion chamber temps and may help prevent detonation.

Also, EGR may not be the sole culprit for the high BLM. There may be other things at work.

Unplugging the solenoid will set a code with the stock ECM. Also, the stock ECM accounts for EGR flow in its metering calculations so you definitely need a new chip when you delete.

Also, consider the various safety/emissions inspections -- as stated -- they may look for the EGR visually.
 
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