Proportioning valve

GNONYX

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2009
Maybe someone can tell me if this statement is true or not
A board member claimed that there's a little pin on the proportioning valve that should be depressed while bleeding, is this true or false?
 
Been a while but iirc the button keeps the safety valve (if there's a leak it slides to cut off fluid to the front or back) aligned while bleeding the brakes after changing it so it doesn't do it. When I changed mine I didn't do it but than I'm a thrill seeker.
 
So what you're saying every time I bleed the brake system I have to install this tool to prevent the spool from moving
 

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So what you're saying every time I bleed the brake system I have to install this tool to prevent the spool from moving

No, sometimes someone has a problem with that valve. When I installed the brass valve just hooked it up and bled the brakes with the Russel bleeder valve replacing the stock ones. That way it was a one man job, $12 a pair and work great.
I suppose you could just put a small piece of wood against that button and the frame to hold it if you wanted.
 
I'm currently going through this drama - didn't pay close attention when I was putting my brake system back together. Went to bleed my brakes, started at the RT/Rear as service manual states. No dice, no fluid, no nothing. Went to LT/RR - same. Just to check, did the LT/Front - got flow. Same with the RT/Front... Weird.

Decide to "gravity bleed" - nothing out of the rears after 4hr.

Start researching and find out that these valves will apparently block off one side of the brake system if it detects a leak on that side (guess it did so when i went to start bleeding the rear first - or it never was centered, one or the other) - supposed fix once installed and tripped is to open bleeders on the side you have flow from and jam on the brake pedal to "sense a leak" and effectively force the valve to trip that side and shut those off, get fluid flow to the other side and eventually you can make the valve "recenter" when you're properly bled. Tried this multiple times, different ways, no dice.

Started physically inspecting the valve. My old valve has a pin sticking out of the end of it that you can push and pull on, and you can actually see the valve moving through the end back and forth. The new style valve i have, you cannot grab this pin if it is shifted to the rear, it is flush up against the housing of the valve (UGH!) I can BARELY grab the end of it with a pick from behind and pull it forward but can't get it far enough out to get any kind of grip on it and hold it to try to get some flow to the rear.

My recommendation to not end up in my state of "screwed" and having to redo my brake lines and stuff, is to make sure the new valve is centered before you install it. They do show to have a tool that goes in where the "brake warning light" sensor goes on the top of the valve that will hold the valve in the center while you bleed. Once you're all bled, you remove the pin and reinstall the sensor and you're good to go. Pretty sure i'm gonna have to remove my valve, recenter it and go this route as anything I've tried to recenter it installed has yielded no results.
 
No, sometimes someone has a problem with that valve. When I installed the brass valve just hooked it up and bled the brakes with the Russel bleeder valve replacing the stock ones. That way it was a one man job, $12 a pair and work great.
I suppose you could just put a small piece of wood against that button and the frame to hold it if you wanted.
I just ordered a set for the rear and front from Amazon
YouTube gives a good demo so I'll give it a try
Thanks for the info
 
I'm currently going through this drama - didn't pay close attention when I was putting my brake system back together. Went to bleed my brakes, started at the RT/Rear as service manual states. No dice, no fluid, no nothing. Went to LT/RR - same. Just to check, did the LT/Front - got flow. Same with the RT/Front... Weird.

Decide to "gravity bleed" - nothing out of the rears after 4hr.

Start researching and find out that these valves will apparently block off one side of the brake system if it detects a leak on that side (guess it did so when i went to start bleeding the rear first - or it never was centered, one or the other) - supposed fix once installed and tripped is to open bleeders on the side you have flow from and jam on the brake pedal to "sense a leak" and effectively force the valve to trip that side and shut those off, get fluid flow to the other side and eventually you can make the valve "recenter" when you're properly bled. Tried this multiple times, different ways, no dice.

Started physically inspecting the valve. My old valve has a pin sticking out of the end of it that you can push and pull on, and you can actually see the valve moving through the end back and forth. The new style valve i have, you cannot grab this pin if it is shifted to the rear, it is flush up against the housing of the valve (UGH!) I can BARELY grab the end of it with a pick from behind and pull it forward but can't get it far enough out to get any kind of grip on it and hold it to try to get some flow to the rear.

My recommendation to not end up in my state of "screwed" and having to redo my brake lines and stuff, is to make sure the new valve is centered before you install it. They do show to have a tool that goes in where the "brake warning light" sensor goes on the top of the valve that will hold the valve in the center while you bleed. Once you're all bled, you remove the pin and reinstall the sensor and you're good to go. Pretty sure i'm gonna have to remove my valve, recenter it and go this route as anything I've tried to recenter it installed has yielded no results.
Went I replaced the Proportioning Valve it came with the tool and I used the tool during the bleeding process.
If you need this Proportioning Valve tool EBay has them.
 
Became fairly proficient in this , Gents. Not to be a know it all here, but it is actually a metering valve ,'cuz that's it's job. What NyteSnyper said in his last paragraph is right on. The valve has to be centered & kept in place with the tool. in order to recenter the valve., remove all lines & you can move it gently back to center with a pick, from the top, thru the sensor switch hole. Some guys used to screw a stop in place to hold the outside part in place, but the little plastic / nylon tool took it's place.
Good luck...… use this procedure & you'll be good to go...….or Stop ! LoL
 
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