Soft brake pedal.

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Billdogg

PSI FED 6
Joined
Jun 12, 2002
Messages
626
Alright, here's the story. I bought a car that was sitting for a while. It had the original powermaster switch that didn't get the recall. Brakes worked, but the pedal was real hard. I put in the new switch, and popped off the cover. The pass. side resevoir was almost dry, so I filled it up. After some pumps, the brake pedal got softer. The resevoir got empty again, so I filled it back up. Put about 15 ounecs of brake fluid in. There is nothing leaking that I can tell, and the resevoir is staying full. Now the brakes work, and the pedal feels ok, but still soft. It will go down to the floor, but it will apply the brakes before then. Is it possible that I just have air in the system now? If so, should I start bleeding at each wheel?

Sorry for the long post, just wanted to be as accurate as I could. Thanks.
 
Yeah it sounds like you have a little air in the lines. What I have always been told is to bleed from Pass side rear, DR rear, Pass front, and then DR front. Get a buddy to help out by pressing on the pedal while you bleed. I like that better then the one person bleed kits they sell at the parts store.
 
First bleed the master cylinder (unscrew brake lines from MC, attach clear plastic lines looped back into master cylinder, thenpress pedal until bubbles disappear) and then bleed at the wheels starting furthest away from the unit (Passenger Rear, etc.) You can even gravity bleed if you don't have a helper.
 
there is also the possablity that you might have a bad break acculmulator. I had this problem and changing the acculumulator (please excuse the spelling i know it sucks) fixed it.
 
Originally posted by Ash
there is also the possablity that you might have a bad break acculmulator. I had this problem and changing the acculumulator (please excuse the spelling i know it sucks) fixed it.

Yes, especially if the brake light flashes when you hit the brakes.
 
just reading what you guys were saying about the brakes. My light does flash for a second when I hit them. Will the accumulator solve this? Also, is it dangerous or am I doing more damage driving the car the way it is? Thanks for any info.
 
Your accumulator is most likely on the way out. It took me about 2,000 miles for it to finally crap out after the light started flashing.

Eventually the light starts to stay on longer and then it affects the ability of the car to stop :eek: . So, better to do it now and get it over with. Most end up buying the remanufactured Powermaster unit because the accumulators cost almost as much.

You aren't doing any damage to the car, the light is just a warning that you will need to change the accumulator soon.
 
Thanks Scott,
The car has been doing it since I bought it. I will mget right on it. Thanks again for the info.
 
Does anybody know where I can buy an accumulator? These things are tough to find.
 
Ignore that last post. Evidently, prices have shot up in the last six months. It now costs over $500 at Advance Auto for the reman Powermaster. :eek:

So, I'd recommend a vac setup at this point.
 
Are the vac setups easy to install? I had actually given that a thought, but I was trying to keep the GN as stock as possible, though i'm sure that will get harder and harder to do over the next couple of years since parts are starting to get scarce.
 
Red Regal T has a conversion kit for sale in the Parts For Sale section. I plan on getting it one of these days.
 
Hey guys,
I replaced the accumulator bulb and everything is good now. Pedal feels better and light does not flash anymore. I did experience the effects of a bad accumulator last week. Hit the brakes hard because someone stopped short in front of me and it took about a second for the breaks to start grabbing. YIKES!
Anyway, just wanted to thank all of you for the advice.
Mike
 
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