stall issues

S

stricks6

New Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2012
I have a basic bolt on gn with a advertised stall speed of 2800 Rpm torque converter(not mentioning vendor) last trip out to the track was disappointing 13.14 @ 113mph. My 60 foot times are a brutal 2.3-2.4 found out my stall speed is way off like 2200rpm and leaving on maybe 5-7# of boost. Its an absolute terd out of the hole untill the boost comes on. I guess what I'm trying to figure out is should I call the vendor that sold it and complain or should I just upgrade to a 3200. The car has a pte5931with alky I know 2800 is on the low side for this turbo just didn't know if I should give another 2800 a shot or go to a higher stall speed

Any info is appreciated
Thanx
 
A lot of converters are rated for V8's so when they are put on a V6 they stall much lower. I have found that the larger 12" or 11" converters have this issue a lot but the smaller 9" to 10" are closer to what they are rated at on our cars. Turbo and converter matching is very important or you will have a turd. I found out the hard way years ago when I upgraded my turbo to a TE60 with large exhaust housing .85 I think with a 2800 stall PTC lockup and it was a turd. This was picked by someone that specialized in Turbo Buicks and after reading a lot on here I learned I should have bought a .63 housing. I swapped it out for a .63 Garrett exhaust housing and it was a different animal. What size exhaust housing do you have?


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For starters:
Tires?
Where's the alky coming in?
Data log a launch, and see where the timing and afr are.
 
If you have a stock long block, do not up the stall to a 3200. You want to look at 0 boost stall, flash stall, and converter slip at the big end. What is your combo, and do you have the info that Chuck mentions?
 
My mods are: pte 5931,stock intercooler w/dutt. Neck, TT chip, 60# injec., racetronix 255lph pump w/ hot wire, egr delete, isky 208/208 cam, hd valve springs, alky control kit, adj fp reg., 9" k&n, 2.5" hooker cat back exh. w/ electric dump, 2800(2200 lmao)stall, rear air bags,
 
Tires are M/T et streets 255/60/15. Car dosent have traction issues on the track. As for the alky, it is set to the recommended settings from the kit. I don't have a data logger all I have is a scanmaster. My et's were 13.14-13.43@111-114mph with 2.3-2.4 60 ft's, my 02's were 680-730 and 0-1.3 kr in 3rd gear with a shit pile of boost my gauge only reads 20# lol
 
Last year I ran a 12.73 on the same setup with the stock turbo and smaller injectors. It feels like it has a turbo timer on it for like 3 sec. Off the line then it hits like freight train
 
I would try to find a converter that will actually stall 2800-3000 rpm on your car. I use a 2800 stall with a TE60 and it spools instantly and still does a good job coupling on the top end.


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Maybe your vendor will be willing to re-stall the one you bought. The higher end converters will normally do that once for free. Since you've spent the money it can't hurt to ask them.


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I would recommend a better boost gauge and a data logger, tune the knock to zero.
Do you know what rpm drops too under full throttle shifts, and do you know what your trap rpms are? Does it stall 2200 rpm with zero boost, and what is the max boost you can build on the foot break and what is the rpm at that boost?
If you change converters, you should talk to a reputable vendor, I really like my Husek 3021 for a street/strip car. You won't need a lot of stall at zero boost unless something is really wrong. If you have stock heads with the 208/208 which I'm guessing is a flat tappet, you will want a converter that is in the range of 2600 at zero, flashes to 4400 and is slipping less than 10 percent by 5000 rpm.
 
Alky may be flooding the engine while building boost. You can delay alky turn on with the purple wire.( Razors kit)
It's in the instructions.
 
I'm waiting to hear back from the vendor. I will check the rpm drop on shifts. No idea on the trap rpms. It stalls 2200rpm with like 5-7#'s of boost on the foot brake. I'm not really sure what you mean by 2600 with 0 boost. I thought it would naturally build boost on the foot brake?. And how do I check stall slippage %
 
Once you have your trap speed and trap rpm you can use an online calculator to check slip like this one -
http://www.wallaceracing.com/converter-slip.php
Foot break your car and bring the rpms up until your boost gauge reads 0 psig, that will be the typical reference stall speed.

5-7 lbs boost at 2200 rpm does not sound right.
 
All good info thanx guys I will check the reference stall speed and I will read my alky instructions on the purple wire I forgot about that, I did mess with the initial turn on in the Pac controller but no difference also added timing in first plus tried to take out fuel in first to help spool but no luck. Guess I'll just wait to hear back from the vendor. I'll keep you guys posted thanx for your feedback
 
So I talked to the vendor he is willing to help me get a new converter. I can either try another 2800 or pay the difference on a 3000 or 3200 pro torque locking or non locking unit. I will also be adding a trans cooler. Also if I go to I higher stall will I have to get my chip re-burned. And will an hp tuner work on buicks my friend bought one said I can pay the 50$ to use it?
 
It is a little difficult picking out the right converter. If the vendor is not knowledgeable on turbo Buicks, you may want to shop around. The numbers used to characterize the converter will give different results depending on your build. If the vendor cannot give you an estimate for zero boost stall, flash stall, and roughly the slip at 5000-5200 rpm for your combo, I would cut my losses and use another vendor. If I was buying a converter for your car, I would want no more than 2600 rpm stall at zero boost, I would actually maybe want 2400. 4400 rpm flash stall. Slip to be around 10 percent or less at 5000-5200 rpm for a LU. If you go NLU, you can get better slip numbers.
 
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