Streetable 9'S low 10'S how reliable is it??

[WICKEDGN]

Well guys im looking foward to build a highperformance g-machine, of course it is going to take at least a year for me.
Well what im really trying to ask i saw this on a current thread, that a low 10's high 9's stock block is not that really reliable for every day driving without you redoing the block every year, as mention in the other thread. is this true or is it better for me to wait the extra 4 month's and build the TA alum block with more capabilities. Im serious about building one guys so any advise or suggestions will be well taken. Thanx in advance

 

[Nashty]

I don't see why it wouldn't be streetable.

A good friend of mine on here has a motor very similiar to mine without the benefit of a FAST and he drives it everywhere. Even to Chicago to pick up his woman.

I haven't ran a 9 but 10.25 @ 131 'taint too bad. Give me the 1.3X 60' and I would be in the 9's. Now I must admit that I don't drive my car that much but feel comfortable that it could handle it. 90% of the time when I take my car out, I run the piss out of it at some point. If I street drove it, it wouldn't get the same amount of abuse vs. easy miles. When I first had the motor done, it helped the car out to put some miles on the motor to break it in.

Reliability is always a problem (even a BBC) at 650HP levels. I doubt that a BBC could match my car for mileage though.

 

[WICKEDGN]

Nashty 10.2's isnt bad at all im guessing that you have a stock block me as well wouldnt be driving my car every day but i will drive it on the weekend's to do some viper pounding but im hooked on the new TA block can i get it to run say like mid 9's and not sacrifise my weekend drivabilities i ya know what i mean

 

[WICKEDGN]

Well i still cant decide which way to go . any advice will help thanx in advance

 

[Intercooler]

You want to go from a basically stock 14 second setup to a $3.5k block on BFG's no less and runs some 9's or low 10's? That sounds like a recipe for disaster and lost money unfathonable! I would never attempt it myself! It is a whole progression you would have to go through just to think about it in a serious light. If all you have ever ran on is BFG's the first time you put slicks on the car it may give you the willy's! I have BTDT so I speak from experience playing with these cars for over 11 years. I started out with a stocker going 14.4 and worked my way down to a 11 second car that was capable of a 10. Along the way I did things wrong and broke some parts. Luckily it was never too expensive! Now if I took my 14 second stock car and dropped a TA block in it without knowing about how to work with the power at that level I may have wrecked my car, trashed some very expensive parts or the ultimate price of killing myself or someone else. It would be highly adviseable to have all the required parts in place to support this level including the safety equipment. Just my .002

 

[750H.P.V6]

Reliable low 10's

WICKED GN,

The best thing you can do to build in reliability is to over build the combo for what your planning on doing with it and then de-tune it somewhat to maintain reliability. This was and still is Kenny Duttweilers theory. Everyone who wanted a 10 second car got a Stage II motor. Keep in mind most of these guys had lots of money and very little insight into their cars.

Can you run 9's with a stock block? Sort of maybe. So few people have actually done it but everyone (especially on the internet) figures it should be easy. Well let me tell you it isn't easy or cheap to run low 10's or high 9's with a stock block or a Stage II motor in a full weight car.

If you want to gut the car, add a bunch of fiberglass parts and a trans brake then it might be more possible. Too many people focus on E.T. when MPH is the true measure of H.P. any way. Also you get all the guys who tout they have a "street car" but never drive it further than to the local hangout on the weekend. I drove mine 750 miles + round trip to Vegas this year. Yes, it's a street car.

I'm not trying to be a pesimist but there seems to be a lack of real first hand info and a lot of opinions. Buying a TA block would be a good foundation but it is just a place to start not the only part you need. There is no one in there right mind that is going to put a $150 stock crank and a $50 set of rods in a $3500 block. Anyone who tells you different is full of B.S or a fool or both.

To do what you're talking about you'll need at least $15k and a ton of expertise, not to say it can't be done. If you're planning on paying someone else to do it for you add another $5k+. I think a less lofty goal might be cheaper and easier to reach.

Happy holidays
Neal

 

[Joe 1320]

You are getting really good advice. I am currently building up a "stock" 109 block to live deep into the 10s, but I am not going to push it that far. Yes, it takes quite a bit of cash to do it. I have a block girdle, .030 trws, arp studs, o-ringed block, billet roller, balanced and blueprinted, etc. I even plan on using ported 8445 iron heads to retain the stock look. The big turbo and sewerpipe exhaust will be a dead giveaway though

My personal opinion is that if you plan on running nines, don't do it on a 109 block unless you like repeating your work many times over, especially if you are going to put alot of street miles on it in conjuction with dragstrip action. Also be prepared to put $$$ into the project. Just because you have the motor, doesn't mean the trans can take it. Then you build the trans and the rear goes. Then you build the rear and the first time you get traction and knock, you push out the headgasket. Then you fix the gasket and.........(just keep adding cash). I would keep it in the high 10s at most and enjoy beating the heck out of 99% of the rest of the cars.

 

[Buicksx2]

Neal,

Well said and 100% correct. Takes alot of time, alot of money and know how not to mention patience along the way cause it can get frustrating.

As my motor guy always told me......The faster ya go the less racing you are gonna do and he's right.

Like I always said (course I dont listen to my own advice...lol) build a 11.50 car and you'll live a long and happy life. That kinda car will let ya have fun at track, beat most of whats on the street and take 4 other friends for a ride and get you wifes groceries......what else can ya ask for and if done right that 11.50 will stay together for awhile giving you your best bang for the buck.

Then again I don't listen to myself.....lol.

Happy Holidays.

 

[NJTurbo]

I agree with Neil and Rich.

9's on the street. Well can you afford to put gas in it to drive daily. You are not going to be putting 93 octane in a 15k engine are you. Not to mention the first time you punch a 9 second car on the street i hope you have a change of underwear or a brother or father that is a cop to get you out of alot of tickets. I do not drive my car that much therfore the goal of a Stage project works for me, it is a weekend car to play with. It something goes wrong like a headgasket, trans or rear, Oh well when i have the money and time i would fix it. I would think keeping a 9 second daily car would be a pain in the ass with a list of problems. IMO

Happy Holidays

 

[KEVINS]

For piece of mind, go with the TA block and build it up right.. You'll be glad you did

 

[WHITE T]

Hey all I can say is

"Amen Neal"

If you want advise, Neal is a good source. He has already done what you are asking! (keep that in mind)

Rick Elam

 

[squeeze87]

Someone told me that Mike Licht said at a Chicagoland GSCA meeting, that the stock block is fairly reliable to about 11.50. After that you can watch the parts fly off in the rear view mirror!

 

[Two Lane]

Only 2 Months To Wait

The TA block will be ready to go in late February, but they need your deposit now---500 reserves one for YOU.

HTH

 

[Fat Nat]

My production blocked car ran 11.20's without even really leaning on it hard. The problem is 11,s get boring! Do yourself a favor and build a stage motor. I wouldnt jump right into a TA block. wait until all the big boys buy them and work out all the bugs before you lay that kind of cash out for just a block. You can go 10,s all day long on a stage block with minor upgrades. Your still going to shell out alot of cash either way.

 

[WICKEDGN]

Thanx for all the ad vice guys i really apreciated. well the truth is in not going to drive the car as a daily driver matbe on the weekend's but defenetly to the drag strip. what im hoping for is too just go ahead and buy a stage motor and build it right just in case if anything would happen to my other transportation i can rely on my low 9 or even high 10's car to do the job for a couple of days. I know it takes lot's of money and by any means i dont intend to buy it know and build it quickly, it's going to take me some time so i wanted to get inform how reliable a high hp buick block would react to say one weeks or a couple of weeks of every day driving and nothing but 100 octane or higher always goes in the car thanx for the advice i really appreciate this site for all the help they giving me and HAPPY HOLIDAYS TO ALL OF YOU

 

[d0n_3d]

Originally posted by Buicksx2
Neal,

Well said and 100% correct. Takes alot of time, alot of money and know how not to mention patience along the way cause it can get frustrating.

As my motor guy always told me......The faster ya go the less racing you are gonna do and he's right.

Like I always said (course I dont listen to my own advice...lol) build a 11.50 car and you'll live a long and happy life. That kinda car will let ya have fun at track, beat most of whats on the street and take 4 other friends for a ride and get you wifes groceries......what else can ya ask for and if done right that 11.50 will stay together for awhile giving you your best bang for the buck.

Then again I don't listen to myself.....lol.

Happy Holidays.

you just described my car this coming spring...mid 11's with stock motor and can drive anywhere and still beat 90% of what's out there on the street, the best combo i think

 

[azgn]

my car still qualifies as a "street" car, complete with a/c and all accessories (sorta like Neal, although slower )

I just don't understand all this conversation about 9 or 10 sec street cars...........that is really an impractical amount of power "for the street" unless what you really mean is some kind of illegal, structured, 1/4 mile racing, with the car set up for racing including slicks and fuel.

I don't call that a street car

To put things in perspective, my high 10 sec car accelerates to 100 mph in 1 and 1/2 city blocks from a dead stop......how ridiculous is that on "the street"? (and, on anything less than slicks, what you mostly get is tire smoke......)

If all you want to do is win the stoplite derbys, a lightly modified TR, 12 sec capable, will beat 99% of anything on the street

 

[Two Lane]

Fresh back from VN, a bud bought a new '71 LS-5 Chevelle, added headers & a 4:56.

We're crusin', and a guy in a 340 Duster said: "Wanna run it?"

Well, I had to have $50 on the side...it was a sure thing, right?

Wrong, & that's the gremlin regarding street times...traction!

HTH

 

[ttypewe4jim]

why do most people think that 9s is relly that streetable. In my oppion a street car gets drivin every day and plus around here let the cops and tefts here that u run 9s or even low 10s and the car will be gone as soon as u leve it in some parking lot thats just my oppion. And oh yea i think that you sould wait and see how teh ya block is let the top guys get a hold of them and work out the kinks

 

[Joe 1320]

Originally posted by ttypewe4jim
why do most people think that 9s is relly that streetable.

How correct you are. In a car that accelerates that quickly, there is rarely any room to get on it. By the time your brain registers any of the enjoyment of the g-forces, you are most likely hurling yourself toward some other moving obstruction and you have to nail the brakes out of fear of some other moron pulling out in front of you. Once a car gets to those levels of power, you find yourself hardly ever using it on the street. That is one way to avoid getting tickets.