Synthetic users post your warm idle oil psi...please.

[Maltman]

I was asking about this in another post, but I figured this would work better for the board.

Again, I'm seeing somewhere around 5-10 at idle when engine temps are up. I'm running 10W30 valvoline and have a high volume kit, pte relocation kit, and stock oil cooler lines going to CAS radiator cooler.

I've been searching and it seems that I "should" be ok, but I'm SCARED to see psi that low....no car in my life has been that low without some underlying problem....and as I said in the other thread, the psi was good with normal oil.

I sent valvoline an email regarding mixing different weights and I have yet to verify the autometer elec. is reading correctly. Also, engine lights do not come on if that is of any reassurance (it isn't for me). I guess I'm stuck believing that oil pressure should be about 15 at idle minimum....just because factory cars seem to run that. I need group counseling here so my face can stop looking like this ---->

Thanks in advance,

 

[galoush]

10W30 mobil 1 synt. no oil cooler with HV pump and Heaviest spring , 20 psi hot . Whats the WOT psi , i would think thats the most to be concerned with .

 

[Adrian87]

You are fine..I was freaking out when I was seeing 5psi hot idle...put in a new plate between the oil pump and filter housing, gained 5psi, still using full synthetic but switched to 20w50, now I have 10 hot, which is enough. I was getting some rattling on start up but not now. Get one of those plates, they are $13 at the parts store. My startup psi is 75-80 now.

 

[Renthorin]

After driving around for 40 minutes on Sunday the idle pressure was about 25-30. Stock motor with 10w40 mobil 1

 

[Red Regal T]

Look Mark, just dump that 10W30 and get some 20W50 and provide yourself with some decent oil pressure and peace of mind. I'd also forget the synthetic route. Mine idles at 15 after five miles of 80 mph on the freeway. This is hot! About 18 around town. There is no advantage to synthetic unless you talk to the people who make it. All it does put more profit in their pockets.

 

[Turbo6inKY]

Originally posted by Red Regal T
There is no advantage to synthetic unless you talk to the people who make it. All it does put more profit in their pockets.

And you can point to a study or article where conventional matched a synthetic in a test?

 

[Maltman]

Originally posted by Adrian87
You are fine..I was freaking out when I was seeing 5psi hot idle...put in a new plate between the oil pump and filter housing, gained 5psi, still using full synthetic but switched to 20w50, now I have 10 hot, which is enough. I was getting some rattling on start up but not now. Get one of those plates, they are $13 at the parts store. My startup psi is 75-80 now.

Isn't my plate different with that high volume kit? Also, the high volume is only as old as the rebuild (less than 2000 miles).

However, I think I'll switch to the 20W50 anyway...and to think that is what I originally had and I exchanged it for the 10W30

 

[JoeNational]

25psi hot in gear, cold start up close to 70psi using mobil 1 synthetic 10w30

 

[Red Regal T]

Originally posted by Turbo6inKY
And you can point to a study or article where conventional matched a synthetic in a test?

Hey my friend, conventional oil has been around forever, and works very well. If you wish to believe the hype and pay the extra buck, that's YOUR choice. The bottom line is, you're not going to go any faster, and your engine is not going to last any longer. I'm saying that it won't make any difference in your TR.

 

[Turbo6inKY]

Originally posted by Red Regal T
Hey my friend, conventional oil has been around forever, and works very well. If you wish to believe the hype and pay the extra buck, that's YOUR choice. The bottom line is, you're not going to go any faster, and your engine is not going to last any longer. I'm saying that it won't make any difference in your TR.

But you still have no proof, other than your anecdotal "its been around forever?"

Extended drain interval demonstrated.
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/oil-life.html

The old Mobil1 ad with the oil coking up in the saucepan can be reproduced on your stove. The bearings in your turbo can get that hot, especially since ours don't have a water jacket around the center section.

Hot Rod picked up 10 horsepower on a car just by changing the fluids over to synthetic:
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/79838/index.html

If you've ever dismantled an engine that ran on conventional and sat it next to one that ran on synthetic, the total lack of crud and varnish in the engine using synthetic is quite remarkable. You should check it out sometime.

 

[Maltman]

Alright guys...this thread wasn't started to stir up a debate between conventional and synthetic oils!! It's like global warming.....there is a left and right side to most issues.

I appreciate the opinion(s), but all I'm looking for is an average idle psi on "synthetic" and what oil pathway modfications were made to the car.

Again, thanks for all the input so far!

(although I agree that good science is based on current facts/known variables....and synthetic is not inheritently evil)

 

[Black Box]

Mobil 1 10W-30, AC PF-52 filter, stock 37K mile short block and oiling system:
60-70psi cold idle, 20 psi hot idle, 50-60psi cruising at 2000rpm while hot.

Steve

 

[Red Regal T]

Originally posted by Turbo6inKY


If you've ever dismantled an engine that ran on conventional and sat it next to one that ran on synthetic, the total lack of crud and varnish in the engine using synthetic is quite remarkable. You should check it out sometime.

I guess if your not a auto enthusiast, and never change your oil, or you go to the quicky lube every 6 months, that would be true, and you COULD do better to run synthetic. If you change your oil every 2000 miles or less, maybe even 3000 or less, this won't be an issue. I never opened up one of my engines and found any crud, so this must apply to annual oil changers.

On that 10 horsepower gain, in that chevy rag, was that on a 1000 horsepower engine? And even if it was, I wouldn't believe it anyway. How much were they paid by the oil companies to put out that questionable information?

 

[steveX]

I hear you guy about this synthetic oil.. if you ask me conventional oil work just has fine. I have been in the automotive industry for over 14 yrs. the only thing i can say about synthetic oil is that it cause a lot of oil leaks on older motor.

I will stick with conventional oil, the same way i am sticking with R-12 freon.

The industry us they BS to market so call better product.

Do you know R-12 freon is NOT the cause for the o-zone damage. Hydro-carbon from R-12 is too heavy to get up into the atmosphere. save you money and use the correct grade oil, you must also perform your oil change regularly and other maintains.

 

[Maltman]

Well, problem solved: Took out 4 quarts and replaced it with 20W50. Idles warm at 15-20, and still has the same 50-60 range at high rpm. I feel much better

Originally posted by steveX
The industry us they BS to market so call better product.

Do you know R-12 freon is NOT the cause for the o-zone damage. Hydro-carbon from R-12 is too heavy to get up into the atmosphere.

OK...you guys sucked me in. ALL CFCs will collect in the atmosphere. Ozone may not be damaged, but we still have increased concentrations when moron's let the refrigerants go free = global warming (not accusing you of this). Of course, nobody wants to believe that were doing damage b/c they like to keep things the same! I believe without a doubt that R12 is better in our cars, but the fact that we can't control the "morons" makes us pay more $$ due to environmental laws.

side note: cfc info


AS FOR SYNTHETIC:

Of course this is my opinion, but basing opinions on "available" data = pure science. Saying something isn't good because it is new or different has no merit. I'm the most sceptical person when it comes to "new and improved"....but if the "majority" of research shows a particular trend, then it becomes fact. Does this hold true to the end of time? Of course not, heck, they used to think the world was flat...but that was even based on what they knew at the time....until some guy proved them wrong

Therefore, put it to rest....unless there is evidence that says synthetic is bad (based on good research...not a handful of instances that were not controlled), then you have no choice but to except it's validity as an alternative oil. Yet, it doesn't mean you have to use it since nobody said "normal" oil is bad.

However, I'm open to someone making me a believer that the "new" is bad.

 

[Red Regal T]

I just wanted you to go ahead and put in heavier oil. It's very worrysome when you have lousy oil pressure. The reason I went into the synthetic/conventional controversy is because I don't want guys on the board to think they have to use synthetic. Plenty of us don't believe in it. If you choose to, that's OK. And if you don't, that's OK too. After all, you bought the theory that everyone should use 10W30. Any "expert" will tell ya.

 

[Dwayne]

Castrol Synthetic 10w30.........24psi hot and in gear......stock block and front cover

 

[steveX]

This is a company who still make R-12. here is what they have to say.

http://www.duracoolusa.com/DanishHCArticleBOTTOM.jpg

http://www.duracool.com/brochure.html


http://www.foxtoolsupply.com/hc12vs.htm


READ THIS PAGE:http://www.duracool.com/faq.html#educational


Just so you know the EPA/Department of energy was funded by DuPont when testing was done for the 134a. why do you think it against the law to use R-12? because Dupont lose the patten for R-12. SO now DuPont has corner the market again with the R-134. DuPont is the only company allow to make 134a, which is then sold to other company and then sold to consumer. If Half country knows How the government works. I think people will make a better decision (voting). you have to understand these company have rep that lobby the U.S senate floor ($$$). you remember the Firestone and Ford situation with the Explore rolling over problem. Firestone took the heat for the roll-over. but if you look at the new ford explore. the Whole suspension design was done over, it took ford 20 yrs.. come on. we all know who made this mistake here
It nice to read what these government research has to offer, but we all know anything involving the government is motivated my $$$.

it`s sad that "we the people" fall for the non-sense, and "we the People" pay out our a$$. $4.00 a gallon for milk, $2.50 per gallon gas, pay for war and we are still paying to correct our mistake we made in other country`s..

PLEASE "we the people" sound more like "we the Pigs" cause all we are doing is rolling around in our owe mess.

Man i can go on, on about this bull. but i don`t want to give the impression that i am trying to over throw the government.

I Will say what i away say "America is the Greatest place on earth" but nothing last forever....HINT "ROMAN EMPIRE"

 

[ChrisCairns]

Originally posted by Turbo6inKY
And you can point to a study or article where conventional matched a synthetic in a test?

I can, if my old memory works at all.

It was done by Consumer Reports some years back.

They built 2 engines identically and put them in New York City taxi cabs. One was fed a diet of conventional oil and the other pure synthetic. They were then turned loose to carry on business under all types of conditions and weather.

After over 100,000 miles each if I remember correctly, the engines were removed, disassembled and clearances measured. According to Consumer Reports there were no discernible differences.

CR's recommendation was to just use conventional oil.

 

[TurboGN]

Stevex, I agree with you. I know its a little off-subject but check this out:

Subject: Federal Bill 602P-Mail Charge



Subject: Federal Bill 602P-Mail Charge (I can't believe we will be charged for our internet services, over and above what we already pay, but.........)


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PLEASE FORWARD