TA SE heads with bigger 2.020” intake valves

dank GN

BlackArts Automotive (661)993-8277
Joined
Jan 11, 2009
Hey guys just wanted to get some opinions on going with bigger 2.020” intake valves over the standard 1.940” valves. I know for the swap to be worth it the heads would have to be used on a bore that is big enough to not block the incoming charge .my bore on my stage motor is 4.060 which I think should give the intake valves plenty of room to operate and flow . Now does anyone have any kinda data on bigger valves in the TA heads? Is it worth it ? What kinda gains did you see if any? Any kinda of feed back will be much appreciated as there isn’t much information out there on this upgrade thanks
 

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Hey guys just wanted to get some opinions on going with bigger 2.020” intake valves over the standard 1.940” valves.
dont take this the wrong way but you alot of car and high hp goals to need a head like that.most al heads are low 8 sec heads on the right car
 
Step one is to scribe the bores onto your heads and see how much meat you have to work with.


Then go from there.

Buick V6s don't benefit from bore notching like BBCs do.
 
If you are going to not be limited by rpm(in other words) if you're not limited by a class and you're going to run a motor as hard as you can and make the most power for your combo valve to bore ratio is 52%,the bore size determines the valve size
 
If you are going to not be limited by rpm(in other words) if you're not limited by a class and you're going to run a motor as hard as you can and make the most power for your combo valve to bore ratio is 52%,the bore size determines the valve size
Don’t really get what you mean by bore size determines valve size ? I Understand that u can only go as big as the bore size will let you is that what you mean? If so I should be able to fit a 2.02 valve pretty easy with my 4.061 bore.
On another note I bought the proper valve seats if I end up going to the bigger valves. Also got a set of guides so I can fully rebuild the heads
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Yes that's what I am meaning about 52% is maximum valve to bore ratio as if you get any larger than this percentage wise the bore will start shrouding the Valve and will make less power, so the larger the valve you can run will help with low lift flow IE better torque just can't get above 52% on a wedge head by the way that's a killer bore size with those heads and set up the car ought to make awesome power and fly
 
Something else that might be interesting to note is that the reason the larger valve helps so much is because it is the Restriction in the port until the valve curtain area becomes larger than the throat once this happens then the valve is no longer the restriction the throat becomes the restriction so in order to find out when this happens you can take the valve diameter * 98% this will give you the actual seat area which is smaller than the valve that's where the 98% comes from * pi or 3.14 X your lift and then you will have your valve curtain area when this area becomes larger than the throat area now the valve is no longer the Restriction the throat area is, but just remember on a wedge head that 52% is about as large as you can possibly go on the valve to bore size before the bore starts restricting the valve flow pretty heavily on the side close to the bore hope this helps
 
inmo no,as the ported al heads on the right car and motor go low8s.looking at the realistic use of the car is an area where most skip over and end up doing things that just arent needed.
I would agree with that if you're not looking to absolutely fly with the car put the heads on it with the valves that are in it it will run great now if you're like me and or mr. Spool and a tremendous horsepower Junkie I would go with the o2s I know he would leave them that way:LOL::LOL::LOL:
 
So the valves I bought where a used set . So I thought I would grind a new 46* face on them .
 
inmo no,as the ported al heads on the right car and motor go low8s.looking at the realistic use of the car is an area where most skip over and end up doing things that just arent needed.

What he said..... It's a waste of time and money imo. If your already running bottom 8's and your looking for more, I get it. But that cylinder head without those valves will take you further then your current combination will allow.
 
How fast are you running now? I like seeing guys trying new ideas and seeing how it works.
No times yet as I just got her going again. The idea with going to 2.020” intake valves isn’t anything new it’s just there is barely any information on them . Like how much will your flow increase if any I know that it has a lot to do with your bore size if you can even run intake valves that size . Anyway I have all the stuff to convert them but as of now the heads are bolted on and working as they should do next time they come off I will do the swap .
 
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