Tire rub with 28"tire

[nboost]

Anyone driving around with there car being a little lower than normal meaning the rear tires actually tuck a inch or 2 in the rear and is stuffing a 28"tall tire with no rub?...whew....long sentance..
just curious cause my car has 235/70/15 on the rear right now and they tuck. After doing the tire calculator, the 275/60/15 drag radial im switching to, is slightly bigger and wider...

 

[turbojimmy]

Originally posted by nboost
Anyone driving around with there car being a little lower than normal meaning the rear tires actually tuck a inch or 2 in the rear and is stuffing a 28"tall tire with no rub?...whew....long sentance..
just curious cause my car has 235/70/15 on the rear right now and they tuck. After doing the tire calculator, the 275/60/15 drag radial im switching to, is slightly bigger and wider...

My 275/60-15 DRs rubbed even with the car HIGHER than stock in the back. I don't think they'll tuck under even with a different offset rim. I have 3.5" BS Weld Draglites and the 275-60 was pretty close to the rail and the wheel well lip. You can probably get away with rolling the lip, though.

Jim

 

[Grant National]

How about 276/60/15 on T-type rims? Will those rub? Sorry to hijack thread...

 

[zam70]

I run 275/60 15 in the rear - eibach lowering springs, no air in the bags. They tuck nicely and with a minor trim/roll on the passenger side, no rubbing at all even with people in the back seat.

rim is a 15 X 8 w/4" BS...3.5 WILL rub unless you major trim roll or jack up the rear.

Pics in sig "new look new hook"

 

[UNGN]

Originally posted by Grant National
How about 276/60/15 on T-type rims? Will those rub? Sorry to hijack thread...

They should work fine. If anywhere, they will rub the frame.

3.5" backspacing with an 8" wheel can put the sidewall close to the wheel lip. Close enough that rolling the edge should be considered.

 

[nboost]

I have draglites myself with 3.5 backspacing so i guess ill have to roll the lip or something...i guess i kinda like my car to tuck in the rear otherwise i probably would raise it up a little.
Thanks for the replys guys

 

[49-blues]

Zam70- very nice look to your car-how much room is there on the frame side? And what size are the front tires? thanks

 

[zam70]

Fronts are 215/70 - I wish I would have went with 205/70 though. The 215 are a hair tall for my taste. 205 would have been perfect IMO.

No idea how much room there is to the frame....not much but, it has never rubbed.
I can assure you, this is the largest tire you can get under our cars with out a major trim job, frame notch or jacking up the rear.

The 4" back space is dead on.

 

[toofastforyou]

I'm running P275-60x15 Good Years Eagle II's on 8" wide "stock appearing" GN wheels with no tire rub anywhere, inside or outside, with the outer lips rolled slightly...The key here is to have 3.5" rear spacing on the wheels... Pictures available...
'bye, Claude

 

[zam70]

if it is a 7" wheel With the 3.5" backspacing, thaqt would work. If it is an 8" (or wider) you would need ALOT of 1/4 roll or jack the back up (which is fugly).

 

[turbojimmy]

Originally posted by zam70
if it is a 7" wheel With the 3.5" backspacing, thaqt would work. If it is an 8" (or wider) you would need ALOT of 1/4 roll or jack the back up (which is fugly).

You don't need ALOT of roll or height in the back to clear the tire. I had the 275/60-15s on 3.5" BS Draglites. I just needed enough air to keep the rear from bouncing too much - it didn't really increase the height that much. Most of the perceived increase in height, I think, was from moving to a taller tire. Now that I have 27" tires on the car it doesn't appear to be sitting much higher than stock in the back.

FWIW, "fugly" is in the eye of the beholder.

Jim

 

[zam70]

Originally posted by turbojimmy
FWIW, "fugly" is in the eye of the beholder.

Jim

Very true...

 

[toofastforyou]

I agree with "turbojimmy"...you don't have to roll the lip a lot...just a little...also, I put some air in the air bags only with the slicks at the track...other than that, no air needed with the P275-60X15's...Like I said in my earlier post, the trick is to have a wheel with 3.5" rear spacing!...
Claude

 

[zam70]

Not trying to say your wrong but, I know on my car, if I did not have the 4" BS there would have been some major 1/4 clearance issues.
Now like I said, my car is lowered and I run zero pressure in the bags.
All cars are different though

 

[toofastforyou]

"zam70", you probably would have some clearance problems with the 3.5" rear spacing because, like you said, your car is lowered which makes sense...However, how come you don't have the tire rubbing on the frame? On my car, I have the 3.5" rear spacing wheels with P275-60x15 Good years and about 1/2" between the tire and the frame...If I had your wheels with 4" rear spacing, I would have the opposite problem as you would...It would touch inside!
Like you said, each car is always a little different!...
One last thing...Didn't you ever notice that the rear axle housing is never perfectly centered under the car...always a little bit on one side or the other, maybe as much as a 1/2", which adds to the problem we're talking about, and confirms that each is different a bit!...And this on other cars too, not only GN'S!...

'bye!

Claude

 

[zam70]

You're right about them not being centered. I centered mine as close as patience would allow when I did my body mounts.

I have no rubbing on the frame. I actually expected to but, it never has.

There always seems to be a big controversy over 3.5 or 4 BS.

 

[jdodman]

I can tell you the QTP's from Hoosier that are 28" tall and 11.5" wide tread do not seem to fit on my 87 GN. With Spacers I can get the tire off the frame rail, but really do not want to roll the wheel well, in order to get them on...
Not to hyjack the thread but has anyone gotten these wheels on their car without the roll ??

 

[wh1-Denver]

I have 275/60/15 Nittos on 8" 4"bs Centerline Telstars Hotchkis lowering springs. When I first put them one the pass side rubed on turns and drive way entrances. I had plenty of room on the driver side, I had 1/8" between dr side frame rail and 3/8" on pass. This told me that my axle and body was not centered on the frame. The fix was new upper and lower BMR control arms and new energy body bushings. You also need a stiff rear sway bar to keep the rear from twisting in hard turns and driveways. Now the car sits perfect. Big tires tucked and now rubbing.

 

[49-blues]

they re still rubbing?

 

[wh1-Denver]

Originally posted by 49-blues
they re still rubbing?

Nope. I meant to write now no rubbing. I can't edit it with the ten minute rule


I have not cut nor rolled the wheel well lip.
The car has a very aggressive stance and handles great. I did some research on the center of gravity and its effects on launch ie tire planting to the road and found out that lowering the car greatly improves the Center of gravity and traction. I forgot to mention that I have a H&R parts rear sway bar, this keeps the rear from twisting in hard corners and when entering drive ways which are commom places that will cause rubbing without a stiff sway bar. I highly recommend the H&R bar over the ATR. I have had both and the extra $300 is well worth it. The ATR fit like crap and would bind the rear end, the angle on the sway bar where it bolt to the lower control arms was off quite a bit from the lower control arm angles. The car shots very straight with no twisting during hard acceleration.