trans cooler

[Instro84]

gonna install an auxillary trans cooler on my avalanche should it be pre or post the cooler in the radiator? thanx for help

 

[psycho6cyl]

I believe it's pre.

 

[DR BOOST]

Either post or standalone

 

[Instro84]

thought it was pre myself, take dot my trans guy few mins a go he recommends pre also. thanks

 

[Boost231]

Post. Always run the trans fluid through the radiator prior to the external

 

[TexasT]

X2 on the post radiator . And I wouldn't run a stand alone. Water/coolant is a better conductor than air. Stick your hand in a bucket of water and then wave the other hand around as violently as you can. Which hand changed temp to the cooling medium? Yeah the hand in the bucket. Even if you hold your hand infront of a fan or out the window with the vehicle travelling at hwy speed.
I go through the rad, then through two aux coolers on the T.

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[haywire4130]

X2 on the post radiator . And I wouldn't run a stand alone. Water/coolant is a better conductor than air. Stick your hand in a bucket of water and then wave the other hand around as violently as you can. Which hand changed temp to the cooling medium? Yeah the hand in the bucket. Even if you hold your hand infront of a fan or out the window with the vehicle travelling at hwy speed.
I go through the rad, then through two aux coolers on the T.

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Thats the reason why humans sweat, we would have cooling fins if it was more efficient

 

[Pronto]

As in big ears like elephants.

 

[V6sleeper]

Ive tested a stand alone cooler,it will run 20 degrees hotter by itself then going threw the rad, using the same B&M Supercooler -20000 btu's
I since moved to a Derale external fan unit that cools much better.

 

[V6sleeper]

On one of my cars( other cars may vary due to set up, climate and combo).. my findings***
B&M supercooler rated 20,500 btu's
Stand alone= 200+ degrees
Through aluminum rad same cooler= 175-180
Derale w/fan = 165-170

 

[Instro84]

thanks for the info, i wasn't gonna bypass the cooler in radiator just plumbing in an aux cooler thats been sitting on shelf for awhile it appears post rad is the way to go thanx.
dale

 

[DR BOOST]

the stock radiator cooler is not enough on its own and at best would only bring the trans temps to the coolant temp. An APPROPRIATELY sized external cooler installed in good airflow will cool the trans fluid to a lower temp. Using an external cooler pre-rad cooler will again only bring temps near to coolant temps. ill post some test results next summer when it warms up again.

 

[Steve V]

Trucool 4590 is what I use. Here's a pic of one I did 2 weeks ago.

 

[Boost231]

You did the spray paint and all... stay away from my car lol

 

[Steve V]

You did the spray paint and all... stay away from my car lol

just to be clear one pic was without the flash, I painted around the cooler I did not paint it and the X bar got a touch up too. Can't even see it behind the grill..lol

 

[Front Mount]

I vote pre but don't run one. I say you want some heat in the fluid and running it through the the radiator after will help warm the fluid faster for start up and remove some heat load from the radiator when it is hot and allow the thermostat controlled radiator to regulate the temperature. I personally think running synthetic with frequent changes or following a high temperature occurrence in the transmission is the best but can be expensive. I believe coolers pose a restriction and can reduce flow which is not a good thing, and if I do add one, plan to add it behind the radiator laying flat with a fan pulling or pushing air through it down and out from under the hood helping to remove under hood heat.

 

[Front Mount]

OK, this is on an Avalanche, so not being worried about front mount intercooler and such, I say still put it pre and put it in the airflow on a bracket and no straps/mounts going through the radiator or condenser. Plate cooler out front of AC condenser

 

[V6sleeper]

Avalanche! ...lol I better read the posts better...

 

[Front Mount]

Avalanche! ...lol I better read the posts better...

Yea, I had to do a re-post when I realized it was a truck, if he tows, a wise addition as towing puts a constant load, with my GN it just sees a lot of heat for 20 seconds or so doing burnout and run and cooler won't really stop a quick heating of the fluid, slow it down by adding more fluid and help it cool off after if vehicle allowed to run following a run - yes - but temperature will still flash.

Some people said post factory cooler, would be interested in their reasons, could see cooler fluid returning to the transmission in a hot environment, but short trips in the winter may be too cold?

Dale, aka Instro84 - Thank you for your service.

 

[bison]

Flow volume and pre cooler pressure with bar and plate style coolers should be verified to be acceptable. I've seen some pretty high charge pressures with bar and plate coolers in the circuit. Bar and plate is more efficient but can cause higher pressures. If it's an oem vehicle under warranty I'd use one of the oem coolers that is used on a similar sized vehicle purchased over the counter


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