Vacuum brake conversion on 87'

[GNONYX]

My question is how do you remove the brake pedal bolt for it's location?
What bolt and nut size?
I'm in the process of going to vacuum system from the Powermaster system
Removed the powermaster from the firewall, but I'm having a hard time trying to get to the bolt to remove the powermaster pedal.
Also what is the nut size that holds the steering up against the bracket?
Thanks

 

[LANDAU LIMITED]

I just dropped the whole bracket down and hung the new pedal on it and stuck it back in.

 

[salvageV6]

Not sure it's accurate since I don't remember and I did do 2 swaps but....

How to remove brake pedal?

Trying to remove powermaster. Can't see the bolt holding brake pedal to powermaster with all the wires in the way under the dash. Anybody know what socket size I would need, or is it a cotter pin holding it on? Thanks.

turbobuick.com

 

[GNONYX]

I just dropped the whole bracket down and hung the new pedal on it and stuck it back in.

Do you remember what socket sizes for the whole bracket?

 

[LANDAU LIMITED]

Too long ago for my aging mind. Easy to find out though just look under there. The bolt on the top is the hardest, I did that one by feel.

 

[1KWIKSIX]

remove the drivers seat!
It will be much easier on the ole body

 

[fast86gn]

Oh god I did this conversion 20 years ago... It seems like it was a 17mm or a 19mm? I took my drivers seat out as well to do it, much easier on the back. I don't remember the pedal being a issue getting out and back in.

 

[salvageV6]

Are you also removing the pedal for a vacuum booster swap? The pivot bolt is a 5/8" and the nut on the other end is an 11/16".

From the link...

 

[GNONYX]

Are you also removing the pedal for a vacuum booster swap? The pivot bolt is a 5/8" and the nut on the other end is an 11/16".

From the link...

Yes, I'm also doing the pedal swap, and man what a P.I.A. I spent hours trying to put an unknown socket just to see if the socket was the right size,
I'll try again in a couple of days

 

[GNONYX]

Too long ago for my aging mind. Easy to find out though just look under there. The bolt on the top is the hardest, I did that one by feel.

According to this, there is only one bolt #7 holding the brake pedal bracket?
Is there something I'm missing, or is there more bolts support for this brake pedal bracket

 

[mikestertwo]

The diagram is correct. The pedal bracket is held in by the #7 bolt plus the 4 studs on the #15 mounting plate. When you convert to the vacuum booster it will be held on by the 4 studs on the booster plus the #7 bolt. I just did this on my '87 last year. Brakes work great. Needs a lot less foot pressure to stop the car.

 

[LANDAU LIMITED]

They do work better than I expected.

 

[KC87]

Option #2, send your powermaster out to be rebuilt by a pro (Richard Clark) and save people from asking you to explain all the scars on your hands. Take good care of the powermaster and it will take care of you the way it's suppose to. JMHO.

 

[GNONYX]

Option #2, send your powermaster out to be rebuilt by a pro (Richard Clark) and save people from asking you to explain all the scars on your hands. Take good care of the powermaster and it will take care of you the way it's suppose to. JMHO.

Funny you would mention that
As I stated early I do have a spare complete unit I got many years ago that only had 30,000 miles, and I'm still thinking of replacing with the spare unit or switch over to vacuum type.

 

[salvageV6]

4 and 8 should get the pedal out. Try 5/8" and 11/16".
Don't lose all the bushing crap that goes between the bracket holes along with the pedal.

 

[KC87]

Funny you would mention that
As I stated early I do have a spare complete unit I got many years ago that only had 30,000 miles, and I'm still thinking of replacing with the spare unit or switch over to vacuum type.

Even with only 30k miles on it I'd think that things have deteriorated in it. Maybe ship that off to RC. Sure was a lot easier just pulling the pin to get the PM out.

 

[GNONYX]

Even with only 30k miles on it I'd think that things have deteriorated in it. Maybe ship that off to RC. Sure was a lot easier just pulling the pin to get the PM out.

Yes your right I was thinking the same thing, it's out why putting back just to see if it works or not.
I know everything works, but unsure if the rings condition.
I was also thinking of buying the powermaster reproduction O-rings kit from Kirban, and replace them myself

 

[KC87]

Yes your right I was thinking the same thing, it's out why putting back just to see if it works or not.
I know everything works, but unsure if the rings condition.
I was also thinking of buying the powermaster reproduction O-rings kit from Kirban, and replace them myself

RC has all the high dollar equipment to do everything to the unit like leak down etc. New windings for the motor if needed, if accumulator is still good or on its last leg. Spent a bit over 6 bills including new accumulator and shipping and so far its been like new.
Oh, and my hands still look like hands and not old beat up gnawed off old stubs.

 

[GNONYX]

RC has all the high dollar equipment to do everything to the unit like leak down etc. New windings for the motor if needed, if accumulator is still good or on its last leg. Spent a bit over 6 bills including new accumulator and shipping and so far its been like new.
Oh, and my hands still look like hands and not old beat up gnawed off old stubs.

I agreed, Richard reputation is well known, it's the cost is what I'm concern

 

[KC87]

I agreed, Richard reputation is well known, it's the cost is what I'm concern

See I'm the black sheep out here and like how the PM feels and lasted me 31 years with only 2 accumulator changes, 3 with the rebuild. If you have smaller hands and are in shape enough to spend time under the dash than there's nothing wrong with you going vacuum. What's nice is you have the option and could switch back to PM in the future.