Vacuum line relocation

wb_7354

Active Member
#1
What is everyone doing as far as drilling and tapping the back of the intake manifold? The metal is so thin. Is it necessary to use a fitting with a nut? What size and type fittings are you using? Any tips, tricks or ideas are welcomed. I realize it’s not rocket science but I really don’t want to screw up my new intake.

Thanks, William


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Jerryl

Tall Chinese Guy
#3
I understand the fear and had similar thoughts and major pucker factor drilling my champion ported intake.

Luckily, I purchased the full XFI package from Bison, because he is easy to reach via TXT and answers questions. He said "No problem", so I said F-It and drilled. Measure 3X, drill once where you want it, tap it (slowly), and be done. No need for any retaining device on the inside. You will be fine.

Another option is a drilled spacer plate if you decide not to drill.
 

wb_7354

Active Member
#5
I understand the fear and had similar thoughts and major pucker factor drilling my champion ported intake.

Luckily, I purchased the full XFI package from Bison, because he is easy to reach via TXT and answers questions. He said "No problem", so I said F-It and drilled. Measure 3X, drill once where you want it, tap it (slowly), and be done. No need for any retaining device on the inside. You will be fine.

Another option is a drilled spacer plate if you decide not to drill.
Thanks for the vote of confidence.


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NY Twin Turbo

All the good stuff.....Times 2.
#11
I have a Champion/BGC intake. None of my vacuum lines come off the throttle body. Most are off the rear like shown above. And a few off the front as well. I believe I may have a little more meat in the wall for NPT threads though. So no need to weld plates for added thickness.

But even back when I had a stocker, I used a plenum spacer and tapped along it's length for all my vacuum lines. Then I blocked off the throttle body with a flat plate. You can try this also.
 

wb_7354

Active Member
#12
Here’s how I did mine. I had an aluminum vacuum block that I removed the fittings from and relocated them to the back if the intake manifold except for the one for the fuel pressure regulator. For that I cut down the aluminum block and drilled and tapped into the side.
That looks nice Dave.


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wb_7354

Active Member
#15
I have a Champion/BGC intake. None of my vacuum lines come off the throttle body. Most are off the rear like shown above. And a few off the front as well. I believe I may have a little more meat in the wall for NPT threads though. So no need to weld plates for added thickness.

But even back when I had a stocker, I used a plenum spacer and tapped along it's length for all my vacuum lines. Then I blocked off the throttle body with a flat plate. You can try this also.
I have the flat block off plate that I will use.

I think I am going to run a dedicated line from the rear of the intake to the PCV. Then run a second line to feed the vacuum block. The vacuum block has (5) 1/4” ports, and (2) 3/8” ports. So...
(1) I think I will run a 3/8” from the intake manifold to the 3/8” vacuum block port.
(2) 3/8” from intake to PCV
(3) 1/4” to cruise
(4) 1/4” to evap canister
(5) 1/8” to MAP
(6) 1/8” to fuel pressure regulator
(7) 1/8” to HVAC and Boost gauge

Does this sound like a good plan?
Am I forgetting anything?


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#16
That looks nice Dave.


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Thanks,

I was going to run them all to the back but after the engine rebuild we had the motor on the test stand at RC's and he had a vacuum block with a single barb coming out the top for the FPR and I thought I could make it cleaner and a little different.
 

Attachments

#17
The one that runs to the EGR is actually filled with epoxy and non functioning. The manifold and heads are GN1 ported and all the EGR stuff is blocked off but I'll have to pass a physical emissions inspection.
 

wb_7354

Active Member
#18
Thanks,

I was going to run them all to the back but after the engine rebuild we had the motor on the test stand at RC's and he had a vacuum block with a single barb coming out the top for the FPR and I thought I could make it cleaner and a little different.
I have aftermarket fuel rails without the provision for the regulator. I’m still trying to mock up the location for the under hood fuel lines and regulator.


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wb_7354

Active Member
#19
The one that runs to the EGR is actually filled with epoxy and non functioning. The manifold and heads are GN1 ported and all the EGR stuff is blocked off but I'll have to pass a physical emissions inspection.
My EGR is long gone. Intake and heads are filled also. No emissions checks here in NY.


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