went to atco tonight-new times ok, but not what i wanted

[trbojo]

first let me say, this was the best time i've had there so far. i got TEN runs in! i actually got my money's worth tonight. anyway, here goes. 1st 13.35@101.43 1.83 60ft-I LEFT IT IN 2ND GEAR AFTER THE BURNOUT AND DIDN'T REALIZE IT TILL ALMOST 3/4 TRACK!!!! DOH!! shifted into 3rd and finished the run. 2nd-13.29@103.86 2.05 3rd-12.94@104.01 1.86 4th-12.87@104.54 1.88 5th-13.01@103.79 1.93 6th-13.06@103.93 1.89 7th-13.52@104.17 2.35-oops,i pushed through the lights! 8th-12.90@103.37 1.74! 9th-13.22@103.46 2.05? 10th-12.99@104.65 1.89. best et 12.87 best mph 104.65 best 60' 1.74. i just can't understand why this thing won't mile per hour higher. could it be valve springs? how much mph have they added for you? i had other guys down there telling me that going to a front mount would make a big difference. i was told that i should be a low 12 to high 11 with my mods. it's getting frustrating. i guess if i could have got consistant 60's, it would have been a mid 12 most of the night. btw, this was with race chip- 22-23 psi boost, 23*in 1st+2nd,21*in third, motorsport 103 fuel, and no knock. o2's around 790. i turned the fuel pressure down 2psi, and that's when the mph dropped. i turned it up 2psi and it didn't make a difference. sorry so long. any advice appreciated.

 

[Doug Jacobson]

Yes, pull the valve covers off and get those stock srings out asap!!! How many miles, the timing chain is prolly shot too. Might as well do that too.

It should be runnig much better with the combo you have. Dou you still have a stock intercooler? If so a neck modificatoin at the very least is what you need, and going to a front mount will help you but is completly unessary IMO for what you have. I ran a CAS V4 into the 10's so don't let people tell you you 'NEED' a front mount.

DJ

 

[trbojo]

stock i/c. how much mph increase with the new springs? chain seems ok. 73,000 miles.

 

[turbojimmy]

Originally posted by trbojo
I LEFT IT IN 2ND GEAR AFTER THE BURNOUT AND DIDN'T REALIZE IT TILL ALMOST 3/4 TRACK!!!! DOH!!

I'm glad to hear someone else does this. I do it all the time. It's particularly frustrating at Island where I can only get 2 runs in on a good day.

You should be running at least a couple of MPH quicker. It's really hard to guess what's holding you back, but valve springs are a good bet. I'm not sure what I picked up with my valve spring change but there definitely was a difference in top end.

Jim

 

[Fuelie600]

Trbojo, A few Q's.
1-what boost were you leaving with? ( too much--tire spin, not enough--slow to come up on boost)
2-what were your RPM's at the shift and thru the traps? (valve springs, slipping convertor or trans)
Doubt 2nd gear would affect your times at all, unless your set up w/ a manual valve body. I left in 2nd all the time untill converting to a vertical gate shifter. Leaving in second means you have less line pressure at the start and it's hard on your sprag.

 

[turbojimmy]

Originally posted by Fuelie600
Doubt 2nd gear would affect your times at all, unless your set up w/ a manual valve body. I left in 2nd all the time untill converting to a vertical gate shifter. Leaving in second means you have less line pressure at the start and it's hard on your sprag.

Leaving it in 2nd gear affects my times because with everything else going on I don't realize that it's stopped accellerating and bouncing off the rev limiter until about 3/4 track.

Jim

 

[strikeeagle]

Why would you do a burnout in 2nd gear? EVERYBODY, every tranny guy, every magazine you read says do your burnout in Drive. Then, leave it in Drive, and let the thing shift itself. You've got enough to think about at the track without worrying about what gear you're in.

My T has gone 121.34 with the original valve springs...

 

[turbojimmy]

Originally posted by strikeeagle
Why would you do a burnout in 2nd gear? EVERYBODY, every tranny guy, every magazine you read says do your burnout in Drive. Then, leave it in Drive, and let the thing shift itself. You've got enough to think about at the track without worrying about what gear you're in.

My T has gone 121.34 with the original valve springs...

I'm not sure why I do my burnout in 2nd gear. It was advice I got here I think.

Last time out I did it in first because my shift linkage was f'd up. Then I pushed it up a notch into what I thought was drive. Hence the confusion when it stopped accelerating about mid-track.

I guess I'll just burnout in Drive from now on - it is one less thing to worry about.

Jim

 

[BoostMasterK]

Did you use a TCC lockup switch? Usually pick up 2mph with that.

Mike [

 

[MSDGN]

I agree on changing the valve springs...they will give you some RPM's on the top end and most likely more MPH...without ported heads you will need to run more boost...plus the timing in the chip isn't that high...I ran high 11's with similar combo but had 26 degree chip and ran 24-25 PSI boost...put in some real race gas...at least 110 and crank up the boost...should bring you down to low 12's...high 11's...

 

[Fuelie600]

Guys, the reason for doing your burn out in 2nd, or 1st shifting to 2nd is again--line pressure. Now I realize that there is plenty going on, so until you are comfortable racing you car, do what you feel is best for you. If your using the stock shifter, it can be a real chore finding the next gear.

 

[salvageV6]

23* and 21* timing chip is mainly an alky. chip or 100 octane chip not really a "race" chip.

What's the car weigh?

 

[turbojimmy]

Originally posted by salvageV6
23* and 21* timing chip is mainly an alky. chip or 100 octane chip not really a "race" chip.

What's the car weigh?

I don't want to take this off on a tangent, but I have a TurboTweak 100 octane chip. What makes a race chip? Timing? I can bump it up with the T+.....or should I get a "real" race chip?

Jim

 

[trbojo]

yes, what does constitute a real race chip? i am running the turbotweak 100 also. you can also add up to 4* more timing in the chip itself. there's also an adjustment for w.o.t. fuel. +or- 10%.

 

[salvageV6]

Don't ask me I run pump gas and alky. myself, and that timing in both chips.

Most race chips at least from the couple of Red's chips I've acquired over the years have 24-28* timing in them and probably a bit more fueling too.

If you crank timing and boost at the track do it one psi. or 2* timing at a time, one at a time, and make sure you have the fueling and octane covered.

I went up 2* timing on the translator WOT last time out but I added a third nozzle at 24psi. boost to cover it.

I do like racing on the unleaded gas however myself.

Gotta tune for KR, heard my car ping for the first time ever downthe track last time out, I knew that was it, either more alky. or cut back the boost/timing.

Not a pretty sound to hear when racing those pesky modified F bodies.

 

[Eric Stage I]

It's semantics really. A race chip is made for use with race fuel, so it has different timing and fuel curves than a pump gas chip. I would consider 100-104 octane race fuel, but others may not. I think what Salvage is suggesting, is that to get the most out of the car, put in some 110+ octane and a matching chip, and you'll go faster, because you'll be able to run even more timing and boost than a 100 octane chip.

Joe, you're right, you can adjust timing and wot fuel yourself in that chip. Most of my newer chips have that capability. You could probably adjust it to be more aggressive, especially since you didn't see any knock on your runs, but be careful. I would definitely consider valvesprings though.

Regards,
Eric

 

[turbojimmy]

Originally posted by salvageV6
Don't ask me I run pump gas and alky. myself, and that timing in both chips.

I run pump gas and alky, too, but the pump I get it at says "100 Octane GT" on it. I'm not sure why the fuel gods have smiled upon my tiny town of Ledgewood, but there is a local Sunoco that has a 100 octane pump.

I haven't tried mixing the alky in with the 100 octane yet since I haven't really maxed out the potential of just the 100 octane fuel and base settings on the chip. Last time out I had turned the timing BACK 2 degrees because it's a new combo and I wanted to be conservative.

I didn't know I could adjust the timing in Eric's chip.....would there be any advantage to that over using the T+?

Jim

 

[trbojo]

thanks for the replies everyone. it seems that the vast majority is leaning toward springs. i ordered a set of comp 980's last night! if i pick up 4 mph, that will put me close to the low 12 area. a guru in the area also suggested that i turn the timing down on the low end to help spool faster, and turn it up upstairs since i wasn't getting any knock. i will let you all know how i make out in a few weeks. racing season is here!

 

[salvageV6]

Your car should spool fine with the TE60 and a 3000 stall converter.

Most chips have quick spool code in them as well, whether it be wastegate control or lean fueling in low gear, or both. Erics chips most likely have both so I would suspect something else other than just the timing for lack of spool if that is a problem.

100 GT is great gas, but expensive, wish I could run it all the time myself.

At Englishtown I've been known to add a few gallons to the 93 and the alky. to be safe.

Long drive home on a hook.

 

[trbojo]

i think it spools ok. he just suggested taking a few degrees out to see if it makes it any faster.