Need new oil tank, convert to propane?

deezdad

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2005
Tank is 31 years old starting to see moisture near the bottom, if I'm sinking $ into a new tank was thinking now may be the time to convert. Anyone ever convert or have an opinion oil vs propane? Current system is 2007 model Weil Mclein oil boiler forced hot water thru baseboard Wich also heats domestic hot water. Thanks..
 
I changed from a fuel oil furnace to a natural gas furnace in ‘96 (in town) so I didn’t have to call to refill or worry of running out traveling for work.
While plumbing from the meter to the furnace I ran pipe to the detached garage as well.

At the time natural gas was a little cheaper than fuel oil.

You may consider how long a tank full of each will last.
It seems LP would burn cleaner and would be less smelly.

Most of my reasons are irrelevant to you. Just my thoughts.
 
Move to AZ..... wait, NO, stay there, winter is a good, happy time......... :)
 
I changed from a fuel oil furnace to a natural gas furnace in ‘96 (in town) so I didn’t have to call to refill or worry of running out traveling for work.
While plumbing from the meter to the furnace I ran pipe to the detached garage as well.

At the time natural gas was a little cheaper than fuel oil.

You may consider how long a tank full of each will last.
It seems LP would burn cleaner and would be less smelly.

Most of my reasons are irrelevant to you. Just my thoughts.
Thanks it's all relevant, what do I need to know about running propane lines? Like you I'm an electrician bit that's where my knowledge stops, I can do this but not much else
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Threading pipe ain't that hard but does require some equipment. You don't get to bent the pipe. must use fittings to change direction. Again, not hard but does take some planning and having the correct fittings and pipe lengths to get where you want to be.
 
That’s beautiful work!

Gas piping is the same as running rigid (RMC, GRC whatever you want to call it).

Make sure to use plumbing thread dies if you don’t buy pre-made as the threads made with electrician dies won’t seal properly. We don’t care if some electrons leak out. Lol

The HVAC guy that made my plenum adapter recommended pipe dope paste.
It seems he sized the pipe for the house at 3/4” and the 40 ft to the garage at 1 1/4” and adapted to 1/2” at the furnace with a low point drain pipe capped off.
Of course the underground was pvc coated (similar to Rob Roy) or sealed with rubber tape.

It seems I “had” to install shut off valves close to the furnaces (after adapted to 1/2”) along with temp shrader valves and gauges (in the low point drain pipe) so the pipes could be pumped up to 100 psi to be viewed by the inspector for 30 min. to verify no leaks.
I sprayed soapy water on everything to verify as well.
 
That’s beautiful work!

Gas piping is the same as running rigid (RMC, GRC whatever you want to call it).

Make sure to use plumbing thread dies if you don’t buy pre-made as the threads made with electrician dies won’t seal properly. We don’t care if some electrons leak out. Lol

The HVAC guy that made my plenum adapter recommended pipe dope paste.
It seems he sized the pipe for the house at 3/4” and the 40 ft to the garage at 1 1/4” and adapted to 1/2” at the furnace with a low point drain pipe capped off.
Of course the underground was pvc coated (similar to Rob Roy) or sealed with rubber tape.

It seems I “had” to install shut off valves close to the furnaces (after adapted to 1/2”) along with temp shrader valves and gauges (in the low point drain pipe) so the pipes could be pumped up to 100 psi to be viewed by the inspector for 30 min. to verify no leaks.
I sprayed soapy water on everything to verify as well.
Thank you for the high compliment and helpful tech, much appreciated. Guess I'll decide if it's something I'll tackle after getting some prices for an installed conversion. Think I saw one of my local companies offering free tanks with a conversion, it's stuff like that that'l push my decision as well as lack of maintenance and rebates/credits as pointed out to me by another knowledgeable member.
 
Threading pipe ain't that hard but does require some equipment. You don't get to bent the pipe. must use fittings to change direction. Again, not hard but does take some planning and having the correct fittings and pipe lengths to get where you want to be.
Agree, Im pretty decent running threaded pipe for electrical but respect gas too much to just slap it together without knowing codes etc
 
Aren't the NG and propane lines now that fancy flexible stuff, even for underground? Oil is rather dirty and lots of people get their furnace cleaned every year to play it safe so that would save you a few dollars. Also the propane tank, better if you buy one because if a company supplies you one you can only buy from them at their price and if you own buy at the best price from anyone. Use to be the more you used the less they charged per gallon. A 1,000 gallon one would be nice since propane seems to have some big prices swings different years, remember a few winters ago the massive increase and shortage. Get it filled when prices drop in the spring-summer. First fill though would be painful.
Always thought if I had an oil tank it'd have a petcock to drain any water and add some dry gas or something to it every so often especially if it were outside.
 
That’s beautiful work!



It seems I “had” to install shut off valves close to the furnaces (after adapted to 1/2”) along with temp shrader valves and gauges (in the low point drain pipe) so the pipes could be pumped up to 100 psi to be viewed by the inspector for 30 min. to verify no leaks.
I sprayed soapy water on everything to verify as well.
It is nice work with all those parallel runs.
Valve at the units are way easier to install when installing and make for ease of servicing the unit with out shutting down the whole system.
I'm a rector seal 5 kinda guy but everyone has a preference. There are also tape thread sealers for gas applications.
A rigid 300 is the way to go if you have the coin or know someone who has one. but a tri stand and hand threading stuff works too, just takes longer and you get to provide the muscle. Id get real rigid dies and threader and stand too for that matter but again, everyone has their preference. Also some thread cutting oil. Then lots of fun. Helps if you have an energetic youth to run the threader at this point. But be aware those dies are expensive to replace if you are rough with it and break one or more. Much of this can be picked up used but used is usually worn out.
 

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It is nice work with all those parallel runs.
Valve at the units are way easier to install when installing and make for ease of servicing the unit with out shutting down the whole system.
I'm a rector seal 5 kinda guy but everyone has a preference. There are also tape thread sealers for gas applications.
A rigid 300 is the way to go if you have the coin or know someone who has one. but a tri stand and hand threading stuff works too, just takes longer and you get to provide the muscle. Id get real rigid dies and threader and stand too for that matter but again, everyone has their preference. Also some thread cutting oil. Then lots of fun. Helps if you have an energetic youth to run the threader at this point. But be aware those dies are expensive to replace if you are rough with it and break one or more. Much of this can be picked up used but used is usually worn out.

The Rigid 300 is what I learned on. Maybe we had the dies adjusted down is why the threads were loose, but then again electrical pipe couplings have straight treads inside instead of tapered like plumbing or gas pipe couplings.

True on the valves...... thank you.
 
Whom ever you buy the gas from will if possible convert your heating system to gas and also run the lines. You will also probably be charged for an inspection fee even if you do the lines yourself. Gas companies usually will not deliver gas without the inspection
 
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