What is wrong with my car after cam swap?

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Heath

Elroyjr
Joined
Nov 4, 2002
Messages
331
I put this in the computer chip section,no response.So I will try it hear.My car will idle fine then all the sudden it will start to act like it is missing then back to normal. When I drive through town it does fineat a steady RPM. If I am idling at a red light and take off, as soon as I give it gas it will run ruff like a couple of cylinders are missing.
 
Look at adjusting cam sensor it may be off did you have chip reburned for this cam if it is an agressive one?
 
Do you think all I need is another chip burned? My previous cam was a 210-205. This one is 221-218. Sorry I put all this info in my post in the chip section. I forgot to include it again.I also changed my turbo from a TE-61 to 70 P-trim.
 
did you reuse the plug wires?......sometimes they dont like to be pulled on...just my two cents.....
 
Ohm the wires out, but i would relook at you're cam sensor, i would assume that you had to remove the crank sensor also for install i would also look at that.
 
I will check crank sensor to make sure it is not rubbing anything tommorrow. I just installed crank sensor about six months ago so I hope it is still good. I had someone else do the cam swap. I am a slow mechanic and am in the process of moving.
 
Possibilty it's lifters bleeding down. Did you change them with the cam. If new, maybe a piece of machining trash in inside. You clean clean new lifters in Varsol or alcohol then soak in clean oil before installing. HTH.
 
If everything ...

checks out ok, the cam/crank sensers, ign. wires, etc. might check the tps setting and operation, It's simple and often overlooked. another possibility might be a vacuum leak on one of the hoses:confused:
 
The lifters are new. I wouldn't think they would dleed down while driving. This problem occurs well after start up.
 
Ive got similiar symptoms after putting on Trans+ and Extreme chip and Chevy MAF. Plus popping on WOT. Idling , it will be perfect , then start mssing. Roller cam (206,206) has always been like a sewing machine. Found out pushrods were too long and am now hoping all my problems are from a damaged lifter or 2. There are no cautions when buying cam kits as to using the pushrods that ship with them. What is weird is that mine were too long,yet very noisy.
 
maybe as...

thikstik stated, the p/rods are too long and not allowing the lifters to pump up, causing that tac'g sound.:eek: On the maf, mike had a list of p/n's that was compatable w/his T+. when I originaly purchased mine, I thought I had bought the wrong one. I hadt to send mike the # to verify it's compatability.;)
 
I put this in the computer chip section,no response.So I will try it hear.My car will idle fine then all the sudden it will start to act like it is missing then back to normal. When I drive through town it does fineat a steady RPM. If I am idling at a red light and take off, as soon as I give it gas it will run ruff like a couple of cylinders are missing.

Cam sensor adjusted "dead nuts on" ??
 
If its the cam sensor it will more than likely clear up at higher rpm. Usually it will be hard starting if the sensor is out of range. Low rpm light throttle cruising will be unpleasant if its off.
 
That is right. At 1500 rpm it starts cutting up like it is missing. Get on the highway and set the cruise and it won't miss a lick, till about 8lbs of boost.
 
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