Wolfe or HR bar

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BUICKTR

New Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2002
Messages
634
I have been debating which one would be best for my application. My car is not a daily driver but it is still a street car. It will be in the 10 sec zone and in the near future somewhere in the 9's with my new S2 motor. I would just like to hear people opinions on these bars.:cool:
 
From what I heard ,,this only needs to be said once..................

HR ;)
 
So are Pauls. I just installed one on my car and it flat out works. If you have any intentions of driving your car on the street at all then the HR wins hands down. Also there are no exhaust clearence issues.
Chris Lyons
 
I agree with Chris...I also have the H&R bar and the fit and finish of the bar is excellent with no interference with the exhaust system! I don't think there's anyhing wrong with the Wolfe bar...just that it is not the ideal setup for a street driven car...I haven't been to the track yet though to see how the car will leave the line...:confused: I used to pull the front left wheel quite high off the ground but not the right one...I was told that the H&R bar would help cure this a lot, making the car leave more straight, but I'll see shortly when I go to the track...:)
'bye!
Claude :)
 
No but I have coil overs. I don't believe air bags are necessary with a anti-roll bar.
 
Reginald, yes, I have air bags and use them only for rear slicks clearance because they are quite close to the wheel opening moulding...I just forgot to mention it in my earlier reply...Oops!:D
Claude :D

P.S: I have a few pictures available of the H&R bar installed on my GN...Just ask! :)
 
Thanks for the info I ordered the HR Bar for my stage 2 car last week and I was wondering if I still need the air bags but like you I have tire clearance issue.

REG
 
I would recommend the HR bar myself :D

The hardest thing to believe with our setup is that it works equally excellent on the street AND the track. It was hard for us to believe it as well, so I can imagine for you guys. We anticipated some trade-off on street characteristics when designing & testing our setup. We quickly found out that because of how it is mounted and designed, it worked quiet & effective on the street, without being too stiff or over-effective. The same setup works on a 14 sec daily driver with stock suspension parts, and also an 8 sec all-out race car with aftermarket suspension components, with or without a front swaybar. Our latest meet (Buick Nat's) confirmed this several times, as we heard it first hand from recent customers using them.

I am about to go to a money back guarantee with these. We have close to 200 out there already, and would have more if we could get them together faster. Of those out there, we have only had 1 person contact us with a complaint. His issue was that it worked too good! He went .03 faster on the 60 ft, .05 faster 1/4 mile, straighter, and launched like a pro-stocker. Get this, he missed the adreneline rush of the twisting & wondering which way it was going to go, and though it was too mellow & controlled now. I can understand, it is very exciting trying to keep it going straight & not take out the guardrail or x-mas tree :)

As for air-bags, they are really only a necessity for tire clearance issues. They can be used as a tuning tool from track to track, depending on how each car hooks up. We learned something VERY interesting at the Nat's. On the top qualifier in TSM (Dave England, gold T-Type), he put the bags in to get it to handle better at high speeds. This would be very similar to anyone doing it for tire clearance. He ran even pressures (recommended) from around 4 to 12 to get it safe. At 8 & 12 psi, the rear got firm and started to bounce off the launch. We make airbag spacers that are used to reduce airbag pressures and lose the bounce, while keeping the same height/downforce on the rear. We originally thought they were needed on 17-20 psi & higher. We found that even on 8 psi, it takes the bounce out. It launched the hardest & went the fastest (9.85 est, see thread on 9.45 TSM car in lounge)) with the spacers in & bags at 1 psi (basically empty). More A-body cars use the bags, with 5-10 psi equally. We recommend using them, and having the absolute minimum pressure in them to give the tire clearance needed, and adjust if track conditions require (usually too sticky). Hope that helps!
 
Paul thanks for the post. Nothing like some real world experience sounds like I will have to play with the air bags a little but we can handle that.
 
What about installing this bar in a T-top car? No cage/bar installed either.

Would it cause MORE flex? Or Less Flex? I remember the GNx 3-link was recommended NOT to be installed on T-top cars. What is your recomendation?

Ryan
 
Originally posted by Spdrcer34
What about installing this bar in a T-top car? No cage/bar installed either.

Would it cause MORE flex? Or Less Flex? I remember the GNx 3-link was recommended NOT to be installed on T-top cars. What is your recomendation?

Ryan

We did a basically stock GN with T-tops as a test last year. The car had all stock control arms, bushings, and stk swaybars. It was as stock as anyone runs as a daily driver, rusty & worn underside/parts. The guys driveway was a dip off the road, and every day the tops creaked & made noise as he pulled in off the road. With our bar installed, it was VERY quiet, and has bee since. It seems to greatly reduce stresses in the body. The body becomes stressed when it is twisted too far from original position. Our bar keeps it from ever getting close to that level.

The reason it works is the stk bar mounts to the control arms, and tries to control body roll thru a longer arm (leverage against you) and thru bushings deflecting. This also makes the body "fight back" 20" away from rear axle, which is ineffective. Our's mounts to the frame directly, at 8" away. The frame area there can easily withstand the stress/forces and effectively controls the body roll. Therefore, the body never gets a chance to see the stress. If our bar was 1/2" dia, it wouldn't be effective either, and the body would start to get stressed again, even though the leverage point is much better at 8".

That's the long version.
Short version is it flat out works, reduces stress on the body, and makes it a LOT more fun to drive and race :)
 
I say support Paul and all their efforts! What he has is a great product that flat out works...Period.
Now all he needs to do is make one for 'Stangs so I can help sell it for him :D

ks:cool:
 
Originally posted by KEVINS
Now all he needs to do is make one for 'Stangs so I can help sell it for him :D

ks:cool:

Thanks! Maybe this winter if I ever get & stay caught up.
Also looking to make them fit ladder bar & pro-4 link setups for all-out race setups later this year, along with tow vehicles, leaf spring cars, F-body, etc... :)
 
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