WTB Front end steel braided brake lines
- Thread starter Danster
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Might have better luck posting this in the "Parts Wanted" forum, located here: http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=35
salvageV6
Daily Driver
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- May 25, 2001
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Jegs has the nice Russell kit with 3 lines total.
My mechanic put them on old salvageV6 last week along with a line lock for track day rental.
Pedal feel was slightly better but that could have been due to all new fluid and a good bleed.
Getting the old lines off required the proper flare wrenches and a torch applied properly with PB Blaster. Car has lots of rust.
Took him a long time with some help from me, the back one was very troublesome, good thing it was on a lift.
Russell makes a nice product.
My mechanic put them on old salvageV6 last week along with a line lock for track day rental.
Pedal feel was slightly better but that could have been due to all new fluid and a good bleed.
Getting the old lines off required the proper flare wrenches and a torch applied properly with PB Blaster. Car has lots of rust.
Took him a long time with some help from me, the back one was very troublesome, good thing it was on a lift.
Russell makes a nice product.
I got mine from: http://www.inlinetube.com/ The first set they sent me was a little short.
But they exchanged/fixed it.
But they exchanged/fixed it.Matt Weiser
It's an F.U.V.
- Joined
- Dec 17, 2001
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- 491
I got the Russell kit too but I had a hard time getting the rear line to fit. For some reason the flares didn't match and it wouldn't seal. Anybody else have this problem? Could be that wagons (like mine) have a different hard line in the rear...??? I ended up getting a new OEM rubber line for the back instead.
Also, the fronts are a little long and rub in the upper ball joint area. Probably not a big deal, but...
Earl's also makes a kit for our cars. Both are available from Summit Racing.
Also, the fronts are a little long and rub in the upper ball joint area. Probably not a big deal, but...
Earl's also makes a kit for our cars. Both are available from Summit Racing.
salvageV6
Daily Driver
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Mine had little plastic tubes over the possible wear areas, and, I don't believe they rub, but my mechanic oriented them before tightening them down fully.
Back fitting leaked a bit until re-torqued to a rather large number.
I assumed it was the rust and wear, he said the flare could get worn in one spot and need to be "persuaded" to reseal.
Sounds logical after 15 years.
Then again it is very hard to torque that fitting anyway up there.
All is fine for me but I don't suggest trying to do it in the driveway on 15 year old lines.
It would really suck if you had to make new hard tube lines.
Back fitting leaked a bit until re-torqued to a rather large number.
I assumed it was the rust and wear, he said the flare could get worn in one spot and need to be "persuaded" to reseal.
Sounds logical after 15 years.
Then again it is very hard to torque that fitting anyway up there.
All is fine for me but I don't suggest trying to do it in the driveway on 15 year old lines.
It would really suck if you had to make new hard tube lines.
Matt Weiser
It's an F.U.V.
- Joined
- Dec 17, 2001
- Messages
- 491
Originally posted by salvageV6
Back fitting leaked a bit until re-torqued to a rather large number.
I assumed it was the rust and wear, he said the flare could get worn in one spot and need to be "persuaded" to reseal.
Then again it is very hard to torque that fitting anyway up there.
All is fine for me but I don't suggest trying to do it in the driveway on 15 year old lines.
It would really suck if you had to make new hard tube lines.
Yep, that's why I ditched the braided rear line and went with a new stocker. I was on my back under the car in the garage and I just couldn't get the fitting tight enough to seal and didn't want to make a bigger mess for myself. But I really like the braided front lines and I think they make a bigger difference in braking feel anyway than the rear line.
I spent a few annoying hours yesterday trying to replace the rear rubber flex line. My '87 has no rust, but where the car's main 1/4" brakeline attaches to the rear rubber flex line ... that inverted Flare nut is frozen tight. I let Liquid Wrench soak in for 30 minutes, used a 6-point flare wrench, and the darn nut STILL rounded off
.I have plenty of working space -- for other reasons, I have the gas tank removed and car is about 18" high on jackstands. The Inv Flare brake fittings on my iron combi valve and on front brakes came off no problem, but this rear fitting is a major PITA.
Is heat called for? Would a MAPP gas plumbing torch work OK? And what is the technique?
salvageV6
Daily Driver
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Sure that torch should work fine. Just heat it up for 30 seconds or so and watch for fuel lines, and there are some paper labels I think on the tops of the springs or in that area. Use the oil after the flame is off too.
You have to work the wrench back and forth slightly and not just in one direction. The line must be free of the nut before you use the extra torque to break the nut from the threads. Nut must move without the line being attached to it still let's put it that way.
Lotsa PBBLaster was used. Back and forth, had to heat it twice to get mine off.
Rust never sleeps.
You have to work the wrench back and forth slightly and not just in one direction. The line must be free of the nut before you use the extra torque to break the nut from the threads. Nut must move without the line being attached to it still let's put it that way.
Lotsa PBBLaster was used. Back and forth, had to heat it twice to get mine off.
Rust never sleeps.
Good & bad news.
Good : I applied some PB Blaster, let it soak 30 minutes, and the Inv Flare male nut nut finally broke free of the rubber flex hose, by the rear axle!
Didn't have to use a torch.
Yes, it's possible the Liquid Wrench from yesterday had broken it free, but I tend to think the PB is what did it ... don't much care for the slimy orange goo appearance, but PB has found a place in my tool box.
The fittings were completely rust free, but the SOB threads had somehow galled or "micro-welded" ... common in stainless unless anti-seize is used, but I wouldn't have expected it on plain steel.
Bad: from yesterday, the male nut's hex flats are mostly rounded off ... I had to use a vise-grip today, which boogered the nut even more. Also, a few of the nut's leading threads are cross-threaded ... the male nut was tight coming out.
I had to unbolt & lift the axle side of the upper-left control arm, to gain wrench clearance, but not a big deal, only took a few minutes.
Now to decide what to do ...
1) I'd have to use a vise-grip to attempt tightening the mangled I.F. nut to the new braided flex line ... it's not clear I could ever get the required torque on a rounded-off nut.
Plus, the crossed-threads on the original nut might damage the new adapter to the new flex line .
2) replacing the entire original brake line seems nearly impossible ... it was factory installed before the body was installed onto the frame.
And, there is no room to cut off and make a new flare.
3) Cut off the tube & nut, then use a Swagelok® compression fitting & appropriate adapter to fit to the new 3AN flex line. Space is tight, might have to use a mini-cutoff wheel on a die grinder.
I'm leaning toward #3 , unless someone has alternate ideas or advice ??
Such a pain ...
Good : I applied some PB Blaster, let it soak 30 minutes, and the Inv Flare male nut nut finally broke free of the rubber flex hose, by the rear axle!
Didn't have to use a torch.
Yes, it's possible the Liquid Wrench from yesterday had broken it free, but I tend to think the PB is what did it ... don't much care for the slimy orange goo appearance, but PB has found a place in my tool box.
The fittings were completely rust free, but the SOB threads had somehow galled or "micro-welded" ... common in stainless unless anti-seize is used, but I wouldn't have expected it on plain steel.
Bad: from yesterday, the male nut's hex flats are mostly rounded off ... I had to use a vise-grip today, which boogered the nut even more. Also, a few of the nut's leading threads are cross-threaded ... the male nut was tight coming out.
I had to unbolt & lift the axle side of the upper-left control arm, to gain wrench clearance, but not a big deal, only took a few minutes.
Now to decide what to do ...
1) I'd have to use a vise-grip to attempt tightening the mangled I.F. nut to the new braided flex line ... it's not clear I could ever get the required torque on a rounded-off nut.
Plus, the crossed-threads on the original nut might damage the new adapter to the new flex line .
2) replacing the entire original brake line seems nearly impossible ... it was factory installed before the body was installed onto the frame.
And, there is no room to cut off and make a new flare.
3) Cut off the tube & nut, then use a Swagelok® compression fitting & appropriate adapter to fit to the new 3AN flex line. Space is tight, might have to use a mini-cutoff wheel on a die grinder.
I'm leaning toward #3 , unless someone has alternate ideas or advice ??
Such a pain ...
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