11" bolt on brakes

whohooo this is one grand daddy of a thread.

I am looking for the cheapest and easiest.

Is this the final outcome?:

. Spindles from a 98' to 05' s10 blazer.
2. Calipers (dual piston) from a 98' to 05' s10 blazer.
3. Rotors for 98' to 05' s10 blazer. (can be aftermarket or stock)
4. New flexible brake lines from a g body monte carlo or use an adapter (2 edelmann 258340 3/16- 1/4 brake line adapters) for the blazer brake lines.
5. Cut the ABS wire harness off the hubs.

The stock master cylinder from a gbody car will work. Finding out if it makes the brakes softer or spongey at all.


Just did a setup for a friend--WHEN rebuilding the calipers install the pistons and seals DRY--NO LUBE--his has 0 drag. Now if I can find time to do mine.

4 door 2wd and the Extreme Blazers have the duel piston calipers

1998-2005 2WD Blazer/Jimmy/Bravada only! No Trucks. Just the SUV models.

5th character of the VIN is the letter S
10th character of the VIN is the year. W=98 X=99 Y=00 1=01 2=02,etc


It's probably easier and cheaper just to buy reman'd calipers instead of trying to rebuild them.
 
S-10 truck spindles

I was told by a supposed "S-10 expert" that the truck spindles (not the rest of the stuff, just the spindles) are the same as the Blazers and there are multiple other years that work as well. If this is true and you're buying rebuilt calipers and rotors anyway to make this conversion, wouldn't this work the same?
 
I did this conversion on my car a while back and ran it a few times. It's a very good conversion, great stopping power, def an increase. Everything came off the blazer and swapped directly on. I used the spindles from the boneyard, pretty much everything else was rebuilt using autozone parts. Stock rims worked fine with the conversion.

The only problem I found was weight. These are SUV brakes and they are heavy.
 
wrong

Did a little more research, turns out my "expert" friend was wrong. Only the '98 to '05 S-10 Blazer, 2WD spindles will work.
 
I vote for someone to create a new thread or maybe something for the "library" section.

:D
 
I went to local yard yesterday. They have like 10 of the right year blazers but they are all wheel drive only!

Seems like if you just omit the awd drive axle it would still work? At least the spindles are interchangable..

Reman'd wheel hubs for the 2wd drive blazers are dam expensive to switch out the AWD pieces.

Any thoughts?
 
brakes

I have the full setup that Adam (V-8 Assassin) had on his car. Bought them from him in BG this past May. Thought I had a car to put them on but that job fell through. I will sell them for the price I paid Adam ($225). And yes they fit with Weld Rodlites on my car.
 
Great info here.

I just found all of the parts needed for this conversion at my local yard for $200. :D
My car has a seeping brake hose, and badly glazed rotors so I was going to have to change everything anyway...might as well upgrade!
 
I'm Not Sure What You Mean. Psi Stands For Pounds Of Pressure Per Square Inch. That "psi" Is Then Multiplied Times The Square Inches Of Area Of The Brake Piston To Give The Actual Pressure Output Of The Caliper Piston. In Air Brakes, The Average Size Of A Rear Air Chamber Is Called A "type 30" This Means It Has 30 Sq Inches Of Dia Area. If 100 Psi Of Air Pressure Is Delivered To That Air Chamber, It Would Put Out 3000psi To The Push Rod Of The Air Chamber. Longer Pads Actually Reduce The Point Pressure Of The Pad Against The Rotor. The Small Pads Can "pinch" The Rotor Harder, Kind Of Like A High Heel Shoe Digs Into The Grass Or A Floor, But A Wide Heel Spreads Out The Pressure. So, Heavier Rotors And Longer Pads Will Absorb More Heat, And That Is Good, But Pressure Is What Stops The Car. For Example, When You Near A Red Traffic Light, You Apply Light Pressure To The Brake Pedal, As You Get Closer, You Apply More Pressure, And So On. Decreasing The Stopping Distance Always Calls For "more Pressure" Why Do I Say That A Hydroboost Will Decrease Rotor Heat? It Has The Output Pressure To Stop The Car In Half The Distance. The Road Race Guys Overheat Their Rotors At High Speeds Trying To Make The Turns With Manual Brakes. The Pressure Is Too Low With Manual Brakes, About 500-700psi. "line Pressure" That Is. We Did A Road Race Viper With A Hydroboost, Using Stock Brakes, He Goes Around The Other Guys That Are Trying To Make The Turns At 160mph, Pushing Their Master Off The Firewall. He Just Drives Around Them. His Phone Number Is Available.

The Viper must have had problems. Changing the Power Booster assembly alone CANNOT change the efficiency of a brake system. Automotive brakes are simply a crude system for converting kinetic energy to heat. Unless the Viper had a bad booster or an underperforming master cylinder; you haven’t added anything to change the coefficient of friction; or improve swept area.

Too many people confuse a firm brake pedal with good brakes.
 
Thank you SO much for this thread! For 160, I got a pair of these bad boys, and cannot wait to upgrade my brakes on my '84 CL Monte Carlo. I'll need to take some pics of the process as well. Now, time to find an 8.5" rearend (if I find one :frown: )
 
Was it ever discovered if these will fit both a stock GN wheel and also a GTA front setup???
 
Great info!!

Read everything but have a few questions.

1) Where to get the brackets for the C5 caliper/rotor conversion?
2) Will those 13" rotors clear stock 15x7 wheels?
Thanks
Mikey
 
Great info!!

Read everything but have a few questions.

1) Where to get the brackets for the C5 caliper/rotor conversion?
2) Will those 13" rotors clear stock 15x7 wheels?
Thanks
Mikey

The largest rotor you can put in a 15" wheel is an 11' inch rotor bud. If I'm wrong someone please correct me.:D
 
MAKE THIS A STICKY PLEASE!

vote for sticky #1

I just got this swap and will be installing soon!

Thank you for this idea PETESGN, the REAL keeper of many truths
 
TTT for this great thread. +1000 for this being a sticky. Thankyou to Pete for bringin this over to TB.com. 1 correction I made that kept being reused highlighted in red with the correct info, unless i read this wrong and changed correct info and if so for that i apologize in advance.

Recipe for plug n play front disc brake dual piston caliper swap.

1. Spindles from a 98' to 05' 2wd s10 blazer.
2. Calipers (dual piston) from a 98' to 05' 2wd s10 blazer.
3. Rotors for 98' to 05' 2wd s10 blazer. (can be aftermarket or stock)
4. Brake lines from 98' to 05' 2wd s10 blazer (braided or stock) or use an adapter (2 edelmann 258340 3/16- 1/4 brake line adapters) for the TB brake lines (braided or stock).
5. Wheel hubs from a from a 98' to 05' 2wd s10 blazer.
6. Cut the ABS wire harness off the hubs.

The stock master cylinder from a gbody car will work.

This will work with stock gn and t-type wheels as well as some racing wheels.(read thread for race wheels that work with this setup)

WHEN rebuilding the calipers install the pistons and seals DRY--NO LUBE--for 0 drag.

Not all S10 blazers have the dual piston calipers.

4 door 2wd and the Extreme Blazers have the dual piston calipers

1998-2005 2WD Blazer/Jimmy/Bravada only! No Trucks. Just the SUV models.

5th character of the VIN is the letter S
10th character of the VIN is the year. W=98 X=99 Y=00 1=01 2=02,etc

It's probably easier and cheaper just to buy reman'd calipers instead of trying to rebuild them.

I think that should sum up the main purpose of this thread. For other info about the LS1, f-body, b-body, brakes that can be used with custom parts and adjustments just read the thread.
 
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