10 second drag radial car...
- Thread starter ytsglock
- Start date
Buying a Gn all ready done will be cheaper than trying to build one to go fast..
Ya BUT sometimes your buying someone elses headache. Building one on a budget ???
Good, Fast, Cheap ........ pick any two.....
If you want good and fast..... it's not going to be cheap....
If you want good and cheap...... it's not going to be fast
If you want it fast and cheap ...... it's definitely not going to be good!
Pronto
Believe nothing you hear and half of what you see.
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2002
Yes indeed.Ya BUT sometimes your buying someone elses headache. Building one on a budget ???
Good, Fast, Cheap ........ pick any two.....
If you want good and fast..... it's not going to be cheap....
If you want good and cheap...... it's not going to be fast
If you want it fast and cheap ...... it's definitely not going to be good!
If you have enough friends in the TB world or someone you can trust, it's very possible to find a car that is fast already and in good shape. Even something that is mechanically sound, you will still find things you want to change for your own reasons so you'll be spending some money on top of the cost of the car anyway.
TurboTnZ06
Go on red!
- Joined
- May 7, 2002
If your TR is stock, I'd say, take the 20-30 grand you would spend on it, keep the TR stock and enjoyable, buy a 2001+ up Corvette 6 speed for about 12-15k, spend money on a 150 wet shot, headers, tune and drag tires, go 10.80s....
I'm trying to do 10's on a budget. Not cheap though. I bought the car for $2500. It had a cracked piston. But the car ran 11.30's, and had ported heads and intake, TA64 turbo, TH400 with AC converter, Hyd roller cam, all the supporting mods. I bought a motor from Nick Micale and he put all the good parts on it and sent it back to me. I'm also putting XFI in it and Cal Hartline is coming up to tune it in May. I will have less than $10K in the whole build and it should run deep into the 10's.
TexasT
Texas, Where are you from
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2002
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/index.php?threads/400319/
Here is a thread on it.
Here is a thread on it.
HouseofSpeed
Hangin' and Bangin'
- Joined
- May 27, 2001
Soooo....here's my take after many moons of building fast everything and most of it is covered in the Fast/Cheap/Good taxonomy. If you buy a 25-30 year old car on the cheap.....no matter what it is....but specifically a Turbo Buick, forget 10's on a drag radial, slick, with a JATO pod or dropped off a cliff. Be realistic with your goals....are 10's possible? SURE....but its not gonna be cheap and its not go out and buy a bunch of parts and throw them at the car and run 10's.
These cars are the most combination specific domestic performance car I have experienced. Easiest car to make power with in the EFI age? Any LS based car....period. I grew up a hardcore Ford guy and have had every musclecar variant known to man....but an LS equipped anything is hard to beat. The heads are the key.....a Ford canted valve head will move as much air as an LS....but they are dinosaurs and in short supply.
I digress.....back to LC2s....rule of thumb 15 or so years ago was 10.70's were the real cutoff for a driver TR....that's with air conditioning and all the creature comforts. Obviously turbo technology and fuel system technology has come a long way in that period of time....but there is only so much air I can move with an 8445 head and only so much power I can make before I drop the crank out of a production block. Be smart and take advantage of this board....which is one of the few that has knowledgeable regular contributors....from builders to tuners and manufacturers to racers.
Measure twice and cut once...........
These cars are the most combination specific domestic performance car I have experienced. Easiest car to make power with in the EFI age? Any LS based car....period. I grew up a hardcore Ford guy and have had every musclecar variant known to man....but an LS equipped anything is hard to beat. The heads are the key.....a Ford canted valve head will move as much air as an LS....but they are dinosaurs and in short supply.
I digress.....back to LC2s....rule of thumb 15 or so years ago was 10.70's were the real cutoff for a driver TR....that's with air conditioning and all the creature comforts. Obviously turbo technology and fuel system technology has come a long way in that period of time....but there is only so much air I can move with an 8445 head and only so much power I can make before I drop the crank out of a production block. Be smart and take advantage of this board....which is one of the few that has knowledgeable regular contributors....from builders to tuners and manufacturers to racers.
Measure twice and cut once...........
A good short block with ported iron heads, matched intake, mild cam, medium sized turbo, good tune, nicely built trans with 3200 or better converter, good axles in the stock 10 bolt, bigger IC, E85 / race gas / or pump gas and alky, and dialed in suspension will get the job done. See my sig below? I ran that on street tires with 3918lb pig of a car (stereo, sound deadening, etc) and only 20psi. I now run 26psi. Haven't had it to the track but if I pull the sub box, spare, toolbox out, throw some MT DR's in it. you know I'll be good for high 10's no problem with my combo. The time in my sig was before I dialed in AFR at 20psi. I actually have run 120 down the back end of the track at 20psi with all that weight. Same ET, but I was running worse 60 ft times due to poor track prep.
10s and budget is not realistic at least not for any length of time even if the car is superlight.buy one done unless you are really attached and you will save a bit on the right deal.there are cars done right but you will have to learn about the car to maintain it and understand the do's and dont's.all in all I don't think a 10sec buick is for everyone.i would adjust your goals unless you really need to go 10s in a gn the money pit can be like quicksand
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2011
yup, a lot of people don't realize how fast mid 11's are on the street, that's a more realistic goal for a mostly street driven car and a mechanically safer gamble if you wanna beat 95% of the street brawlers out their...10s and budget is not realistic at least not for any length of time even if the car is superlight.buy one done unless you are really attached and you will save a bit on the right deal.there are cars done right but you will have to learn about the car to maintain it and understand the do's and dont's.all in all I don't think a 10sec buick is for everyone.i would adjust your goals unless you really need to go 10s in a gn the money pit can be like quicksand
TexasT
Texas, Where are you from
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2002
A mid 12 sec car can be a handful on the street for the uninitiated. Just because you saw john force at the track last weekend and the street outlaw guys in tv doesn't mean you too can wheel a 10 sec car. The g body shuffle isn't just a slogan.
Definitely cheaper to go w/one closely built to your needs. And don't take offence by the advice being given, as you yourself will learn the longer you are apart of the community. As a matter of fact, you will probably be giving some of the same advice as you gain experience. We're assuming you are not experienced at handling a 10 sec. car on the street, and you may be a funny-car driver?! We are just saying, If you want to go forth w/your intensions, proceed w/caution.
My son loved the 86 gn (low 11's), decided he wanted a thrill in the 9sec 87 and now won't drive it anymore because it scared him. A car that's too fast for you to handle is no longer fun to drive and we all have our limits.
My son loved the 86 gn (low 11's), decided he wanted a thrill in the 9sec 87 and now won't drive it anymore because it scared him. A car that's too fast for you to handle is no longer fun to drive and we all have our limits.
I think if it was tallied up with old school Buicks that haven't had upgrades in 10-20 years vs some of the new crowds running better equipment (ie aluminum heads, stroker /forged cranks, Big Stuff and Fast systems, Mega coolers, and billet anything) the average would be 11.30 ish. I bet there are past and present Buick owners that haven't changed a single thing other than a fuel pump that failed or a flat tappet cam that went flat on their cars in 15 years. Let me add a slight turbo upgrade to that. I know that I have a car that been relatively unchanged since the day I bought it. If a part failed it was replaced with the same part. The Te63 was upgraded to aTe66 ( thanks Reed) and the car had one of the Eastern Performance packages on it except the heads, they were ANS. The previous owner sank about 8K in parts and kept spraying it with NOS and kept losing races when the car couldn't handle NOS + timing and blew the tips off of sparkplugs. He kept throwing stuff at it getting frustrated. I bought it and never used the NOS and the car has progressed to running 6.30's with the exact same Precision chip that was installed with the injectors back in 98/99. I consider myself lucky since i bought a car that had the latest and greatest on it at the time. I am sure that I am at the limit with the chip/injectors/turbo/stock crank and main caps and this motor has never been freshened up and it has 97K on it. Going back to 10's on a budget. I think by todays standard the machining and assembly is the largest chunk that will eat up your budget for a motor rebuild. Followed by a transmission that can handle the power, then a new turbo, roller cam set up and all of the other supporting parts to the recipe. ATR,RJC, Kenne Bell etc... all had/have recipes for 10's in there publications and oddly not all parts are engine related, keep that in mind also. I think the recipe for running 10's should be easier now but with all of the electronic gizmos that are in some signatures it's crazy. My buddy's white TType had a PT72 with 72 Lb injectors, a Precision front mount, Accel DFI, 90/10 and 70/30 shocks, a SX performance external pump ,Turbo 350, Mickey Thompson ET Streets on Drag Lites and a 200/200 cam and ran 6.75's in 1997. A solid high 10 sec car then, no motor rebuild just throwing parts on it. I know it can be done a little easier now, everything is better!
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