134a conversion oil servicing question

T

TIMS87GN

Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2001
Sorry to add yet another 134a thread, but I'm trying to be very careful about making sure I add the correct oil amount to the system so I don't cause any damage to my new compressor.
Here's my background:
Old compressor was trashed and sent garbage through the entire system. Oriface tube was pretty much plugged. I have removed everything from the car except the evaporator. All of the removed parts were given a healthy dose of that solvent used to clean the system out. They were repeatedly flused out and blown out and I feel confident that they are contaminent free.
The evaporator was treated too and blown out also, but because of its location inside I'm not as confident about its cleanliness. Now my question:
How much ester oil do I add directly to the compressor (its not on the car currently), and do I need to add oil directly to the accumulator/dryer and condensor? If so how much? I want to get the right. Also, all seals have been replaced and oriface tube is replaced (stock).
Thanks for your advice. Tim
 
Tim, i went through everything you are doing and still no luck with my system. I had trash all through my system and i thought i had flushed enough BUT the evap core had a ton of trash at the bottom of the tank and i thought i had flushed enough (while still on car) BUT it sent trash to my new compressor and killed it. I would HIGHLY recommend removing the evap core (its easy) and flush it until zero trash comes out or replace since you have trash everywhere. I had to buy a new evap core because each time i flushed mine, trash came out and i could never get it all out. *IF* you need another core you can get one from NOS4GN/Highway Stars they have them in stock and good pricing.

just thought i would mention that to you...
 
Thanks Sal,
I've followed your saga and ready several others. The evaporator concerns me. It looks like a pain in the backside to get out. I'll admit I haven't researched removing it though. I would be pissed beyond belief is it sent trash into my new compressor.
Any advice on the amounts to add to the system and where?
 
Heater core Replacement

Found this link from another thread that is for removing the heater core which is in the same area. Doesn't look too bad and maybe this will help someone in the future. I'll get it out and flush the hell out of it. Hopefully I can get any and everything out of it. Come to think of it, I'll take pictures and see about putting together a post to help others in the future.:)

Still looking for advice on the oil amounts though....

Tim
 
I believe

8 ounces- 4 in compressor and 4 in accumulator. Do not forget to rotate the compressor clutch by hand more than 10 revolutions.Hope this helps.
 
Thanks guys! I got the top of the a/c box off and was able to remove the evaporator. It wasn't too bad of a job, going slowly, it took about 45 mins. I've flushed the evaporator out, but I ran out of time and want to flush it one more time to ensure there is nothing else left in there. I look forward to getting it reassembled and drawn down. I'll try to take some pictures for reference.
I'm going to look for some sealing caulk tomorrow at a local auto body supply store to reseal the box back up.
 
Well, I got the system charged. It was 88*F today, and my pressures were 35 on the low side and 250 on the high side. Am I in the ball park for that ambient temp? Averything seems to function ok with the compressor and appears to be no blockages. The bad news is that I have NO cold out blowing out the vents. Consistent 100*F temps there! I have a feeling that the vacuum lines behind the dash are the culprits there. I've never messed with it before, so any suggestions are welcome.
 
Come to think about it, I remember the line behind the orifice tube frosting pretty good then going away. I think I may have some garbage in the screen. But even with that, shouldn't I be getting a hint of cooler air out the vents??
 
Any obstruction

in your A/C is bad. The frost indicates a problem and where the problem is.
 
I'm not looking forward to losing my full charge, but I'm sure there's some debris in the orifice.

Would that obstruction prevent any cold air from coming out the vents? I am going to read the the factory manual today.
 
Tim, you and i are at the same impass.... I dont know what the heck else to do but take it to a shop and let them charge it for me.... Everything that happened to you, happened to me.:mad:
 
Well, I got a real nice surprise this afternoon coming back from a car show. It was 91*F outside and I had the windows down and I wanted some air coming thru the vents, so I turned the selector. For the heck of it it set it on "normal" and it actually started blowing cold air! Granted, it wasn't ice cold, but it got down 70* at the vent. I know I don't have the pressures right because I gave up the other day when I got nothing hot air the other day. Now I will finish topping off the charge and see how low I can get it. :biggrin:

Sal, my compressor is a new unit from Compressorworks. Sorry you are still having the issue. I feel your pain! Are you sure you have no air in your lines?

Why would mine frost up and have NO cold air, then days later after driving, it actually works? Did I miss something?
 
Frost on the lines is somewhat normal but if it's feezing up then you're low on R-134. If the system freezing up it will not cool properly. Make sure it's fully charged and you've adjusted the low pressure switch to compensate for the different pressures of the R-134.
 
You need more freon. The high the ambient temp the higher the base pressure will have to be. Get a dial thermometer or use a infrared digital thermometer and put it in the vent it should cool 25-30 degrees less than the outside temp. and the compressor should not cycle on and off that means the freon is low.

(When I did a compressor and drier replacement it almost needed 3.5 cans to fill the system)
 
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