2004R housing differences?

KrisW

Member
Joined
Nov 18, 2004
Hello all!

I have a couple of questions. I have an older 2004R that has a B-O-P only bellhousing from 1982 that I am currently running. All of the newer ones I am finding have the dual bolt pattern for B-O-P or chevy.

Is there a difference in the strength and/or revisions of the two different housings? Is there any reason that I can't have my 82 transmission performance built?

What is the difference between my Delta 88 valve bodies and the ones suited for performance (such as turbo Buick or turbo Trans Am) from the factory? Can mine be modified to do just as well?

I am running one in a 1980 Cutlass and would like to run them in my f-cars as well. I like them better than the 700R4 transmissions that I have had.

Thanks for the help!
 
Anyone? Chris718? You seem to be the one with the knowledge.. WE4??

I'm gonna try to order your book soon. I just want to know if I should shelf my old B-O-P 2004r if I can build it up as well.
 
there were slight diiferences in the casting over tha years and obviously the later ones look cleaner but as far as the functionality it is questionable.most of the early cases were cadillac buick old pontiac or cbops only and the later were chevrolt and cbop combined.it deopend on the engine you want to mount it to.obvious you cant directly bolt a cbop to a chevy.differences in calibrations are a much wider spectrum and nothing workd better in hperf apps than a cq cz bq br kz coded 200.aa generic and cr ct can be easily modified but not the others
 
I only run B-O-P (and sometimes Caddy) power so the bolt up isn't the problem. I don't have the code off of the tags off hand, so I'll have to look that up. My main question is whether or not I CAN modify mine to be beefy like the GN transmissions.

I know I can bolt on parts to the empty case. I want to be sure that my cases have the same oil passages and casting designs as the newer stuff. Then I want to know if my valve body can be modified to work properly as well or if I have to buy a used turbo car piece.

I am not opposed to ANY amount of machining or modification. I just want to be sure that I can actually do it with the parts I have. I will most likely rebuild/modify these myself with your book.

Thanks for the help!
 
I only run B-O-P (and sometimes Caddy) power so the bolt up isn't the problem. I don't have the code off of the tags off hand, so I'll have to look that up. My main question is whether or not I CAN modify mine to be beefy like the GN transmissions.

I know I can bolt on parts to the empty case. I want to be sure that my cases have the same oil passages and casting designs as the newer stuff. Then I want to know if my valve body can be modified to work properly as well or if I have to buy a used turbo car piece.

I am not opposed to ANY amount of machining or modification. I just want to be sure that I can actually do it with the parts I have. I will most likely rebuild/modify these myself with your book.

Thanks for the help!

i have taken the time to carefully study the routing of the worm casting and pump passages between quite a few 200R4 cases (over 250) and i can say confidently that i can't find any meaningful differences outside the bolt pattern-------meaning if you compare there are a couple slight casting differences but they don't actually affect any fluid path changes---------valve body??-----another issue entirely------lots of changes in valve size, shape and spring ratings..............RC
 
Okay, so I now know that I can use the cases that I have.

Next, valve bodies. I am not trying to get specifics; I just need to know if the older valve bodies can be modified to meet performance specs or if I need turbo castings.

I have access to a world class machine shop and I can follow instructions. I just want to make sure I start with useable parts. Thanks!
 
Dont waste valuable time to calibrate anything other than a aa ct or cr.its cheaper time wise to get a factory hi perf valve body.
 
Do you sell those?

How much do they cost and where do I get them?

Sorry for all of the basic questions, but I'm a little new to the Turbo V6/2004R stuff.
 
Okay, so I now know that I can use the cases that I have.

Next, valve bodies. I am not trying to get specifics; I just need to know if the older valve bodies can be modified to meet performance specs or if I need turbo castings.

I have access to a world class machine shop and I can follow instructions. I just want to make sure I start with useable parts. Thanks!

you better just buy a valve body-----------------------------------
doing it on a small scale would be really expensive------i too have a good CNC shop but even if its a hobby and you don't count the money you have to put a sensible limit on how much you value your time-----enlarging some of the bores would not be too difficult-----but there are some that would have to be sleeved-------and then you have to make the new valves and spec the springs and have them built--------it would be a GNormous project--------personally i believe the only cost/reasonable thing to do would be to tackle the entire valve body and build in a transbrake-----make several hundred and sell them over the next few years-------at least you could get a decent return on your money.........................RC
 
The Generic Valve Body And Governor With My Valve Body Recal Kit Which Includes A Pressure Regulator System,new Seperator Plate,and Everything Else You Need Is 225 $.the Gn Types Are 425.00
 
I have a CZ (monte SS) VB, gov, and other misc. parts listed in the parts for sale section if you want to go that route. $250
 
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