60 foot times

[L8TRH8R]

Starting off, this will be my second time actually at a track. My 1st time out my best was a 1.94. Do you guys leave when the last yellow illuminates or at the first? I'm pretty sure I'll do much better this time as the dr's were at 32psi last time and I'll run them at 12-15 this time. No t-brake in the car.

Bacon curtains sizzlin'

 

[forcefed3.8's]

When you leave doesn't matter, as long as the lights start to go down, otherwise the timers won't start, and you won't get a timeslip. Reaction time doesn't affect the cars times. When you leave, the timers start.
As far as a transbrake goes, alot of people think it is the only way to get a 60'. If your car will hold boost on the foot brake, the trans brake won't help much. With a DR car without alot of suspension work, the trans brake will spin.

 

[SPOOLFOOL2]

Not sure what DRs your running? I'm guessing that 15 lbs wont be enough. My MT DRs hook and wear the best at about 20 psi. Double pump your brakes at the line to hold as much boost as you can. It should get you one or two extra lbs of boost. Good luck. Let us know how you do.

Mike Barnard

 

[Phoneguy]

I run mine at 21 psi. In NC my 60' time with a zero boost foot brake launch was 1.64.
15 psi is a little low and 32 psi is way too high. Good luck

Bryan

 

[L8TRH8R]

Well the track was an airport that one runway was semi prepped, no 60ft times, reaction, or mph, just a hand written slip with a time. My best on Sunday was a 7.56 fishtailing the entire way down the track. The car is consistently in the low-mid 7's but at over 100, how can I get my ET and mph to be more in line?!?!?


Bacon curtains sizzlin'

 

[1chance]

You, and I are in the same boat! New DR run about 20psi, and worn ones about 17psi. I had a exhaust leak last track outting, but got that fixed. It just hurts me to build up on the car that hard, for fear a u-joint, or mount may break! If some cash was on the line, I may do it then. My 60ft was 2.02-1.94. The car MPH like animal, and break the tires lose, when it hit 2nd gear! Good luck! I installed Hydro boost brakes on my car, I know it will hold 10lbs boost on the line.

 

[Texas gn]

I was looking at my power looger and it shows that i was holding 15-16 psi on the line (powermaster) The key for me was changing over the rubber line to SS and upgrading shoes and wheel cylinders and long brake shoes. Ran the 60 foot last night in 1.63 sec! Oh, BTW my 275-60-15 MTs were at 18psi and the pass air bag was 13.5 psi Drv air bag was 6.5 psi. and 21 psi boost. Gbodyparts turned me onto the set up... Hope that helps.

 

[Homie_Telefrag]

Best I could do ever was a 2.0 60FT, so in the same boat X_x

 

[we4Mateo]

I bested a 1.61 sixty off the footbrake (vacuum) at 3-5psi launch. It'll 1.8x sixty with just a little spool and no boost. Spohn LCA and airbags but that's it.

 

[Homie_Telefrag]

I bested a 1.61 sixty off the footbrake (vacuum) at 3-5psi launch. It'll 1.8x sixty with just a little spool and no boost. Spohn LCA and airbags but that's it.

Id kill for a 1.6 60ft time X_x

 

[krom]

No reason you can't get high 1.5s with 18-20 lbs pressure. After burnout come to the line with rpm high riding the brake. If you know how long it takes to spool you will be able to time the lights. Do not worry about winning the race, just leave when you feel yourself pushing through the line.

 

[we4Mateo]

Id kill for a 1.6 60ft time X_x

It's all in the converter for me. That's what made my combo come alive, and seems to be the most debated topic of a lot of combos. It can take a while to get the right stall/converter too. I got my converter used as it was sent in three times for higher restall and it always came back the same. My stall is 2700 with 0-1psi of boost on my TE44. I was able to get a 1.85 60' once with my D5 but usually 2.0 and slower, but the Vigilante I run now is what made it all happen. It's still a great street car too. Your 1/4 times look good for that mph too, but I see whee you are coming from; you know there's an 11 sec run in it with a better 60'. Looks like you have the converter for it too. What does it stall at 0-1psi?

 

[we4Mateo]

No reason you can't get high 1.5s with 18-20 lbs pressure. After burnout come to the line with rpm high riding the brake. If you know how long it takes to spool you will be able to time the lights. Do not worry about winning the race, just leave when you feel yourself pushing through the line.

Vacuum brakes are limiting to what boost pressure I can get at the line, even with two checkvalves, so this procedure really works best with hydroboost or powermaster brakes. Besides, the 44 spools SOOOO fast with a stall that a lot of launch boost is not needed.

 

[Homie_Telefrag]

I can get to about 5 vaccum and the it would rip the 235s loose, but I have stock brakes so between that and stock suspension I lost even before I began the race. X_x

 

[krom]

I have vacuum brakes also, my spool is so quick that if I hammer the gas on the first light the car will push through the line. It just takes practice to get the times.

 

[Texas gn]

Brakes, brakes, brakes...upgrade the shoes,wheel cylinders, and rubber lines. GbodyParts offers a kit now for this and it will work wonders. I went form 3-5 psi to 13-14 psi after the install and 2.0 sec to 1.6 sec 60 foot times.

 

[we4Mateo]

Brakes, brakes, brakes...upgrade the shoes,wheel cylinders, and rubber lines. GbodyParts offers a kit now for this and it will work wonders. I went form 3-5 psi to 13-14 psi after the install and 2.0 sec to 1.6 sec 60 foot times.

Are you using vacuum brakes? If so, this is the most boost I've heard of anyone holding on them. Please advise. Also, beware, I did the brake upgrades like you but have stock shoes in the rear and in the wet, while cornering, it's easy to lock up the rear wheels if the shoes are adjusted properly. No big deal at the track but brake bias is important for safe street driving. I about lost it avoiding a deer on the way back from powertour on an exit ramp ie: turning and braking.

 

[Texas gn]

Are you using vacuum brakes? If so, this is the most boost I've heard of anyone holding on them. Please advise. Also, beware, I did the brake upgrades like you but have stock shoes in the rear and in the wet, while cornering, it's easy to lock up the rear wheels if the shoes are adjusted properly. No big deal at the track but brake bias is important for safe street driving. I about lost it avoiding a deer on the way back from powertour on an exit ramp ie: turning and braking.

I have the original power master brake system. The only thing I have changed is the rubber lines to Stainless, long shoes, s-10 cylinders as said earlier. As explained to me on this board in the past I have learned that keeping the brakes cool is also the key. A good full 3 sec burn out preps the MT and as I approach the staging lights I am applying the brakes and the gas …creeping up the boost. By the time I am staged I am already sitting on 3-4 psi then I hold the brake to the floor and the gas pedal almost to the floor and listen to the engine build boost.

By the time the last light goes yellow it has the boost needle around 13-14psi (green light is on the alky too) When I let the brakes off and launch the car the passenger sun visors swings around and hits the pass window. LOL! That’s how I know I am having a good 60 ft. time. Only does it when I get into the 1.65 or better area. One other thing that made a big difference was changing back to the original factory headers. When I bought the car it had some old style long tube hooker headers on it. Even with a Pats 3000 stall convertor installed in it I could not build more than 3 psi. ( Thanks for finding that Brian! (GbodyParts) One last thing, the most difficult is to let the car cool for 30 mins and watch everyone else have fun before the next run. Hope this helps.

As far as the rear end locking….i would try a new or adjustable proportioning valve. I had a similar problem on my 67 camaro and that fixed it.

Glen

 

[Texas gn]

Powerlogger snapshot of a run. As you can see MPH is zero.

 

[Boost231]

^ whats with that a/f ratio