800+ Wheel HP - What bottom end is needed that's reliable?

[Turbo1dr]

I'm looking for some feedback on some parts that people are using for their engines these days. My current engine made 580-600WHP and lasted 16 years before wiping a cam lobe. I never went into the bottom end of it. I'm about to build another reliable bottom end with the possibility to grow into the 4-digit HP numbers in the future. What would be the brand of crank, rods & pistons you would use in your Off Center TA engine that can reliably support 800 to 1000 wheel horsepower? I want something that will run 9.5 to 10.0 with a soft 1.5 60'.

Reliable is the #1 focus. Drivability is a very close second.


I will be needing stuff like this:
Stroker crank...What type & brand??? Forged or billet?
6.300" rods...What type & brand??? Forged or billet?
Forged pistons with 20cc dish for 10.1 compression...What type and brand??? I'm really wanting 10:1 compression.
Billet Camshaft... I'm considering a profile like this: 218 or 220 duration with .570" lift & 110* lobe separation. Good profile???
Solid Lifters or not?...What brand???


I already have the following that's going on the engine:
GN1R heads
GN1 Intake with 70mm TB
1.65 roller rockers
PT6870 V-band turbo with .81 exh hsg
ATR headers
3.5" downpipe,
Front mount intercooler
XFI

 

[Mr.Spool]

You havent discussed weight
But assuming 3600lbs
You do not need 1000rwhp to go 9.5/10.0 1/4 mile with a 1.5 60ft.
At 1000rwhp the chassis/ drivetrain/cert needs alot of work and a skilled driver will be looking for low 8 sec passes.

 

[Mr.Spool]

Also you would be surprised if I told you what's needed to make 800/1000rwhp.
Can be done several different ways.

 

[BEATAV8]

My TA motor is a budget build. I put it together in 2017 with a 3.625 gn1 crank, Molnar 6.325 rods, 10.5:1 compression and a 225/225 114lsa cam. It’s usually at the 800hp flywheel level though I have run it higher….. it’s very docile imo, very quiet and smooth. Gets quite a few miles on it and has been trouble free with the exception of a nitrile rear main seal that chunked out a bit and got replaced by a Viton piece. Not sure I’d want to push it to 1000 flywheel let alone 1000 wheel with the “economy” crank & rods that are in it but it’s been a perfect engine for years right where it’s at.

 

[Turbo1dr]

You haven't discussed weight
But assuming 3600lbs
You do not need 1000rwhp to go 9.5/10.0 1/4 mile with a 1.5 60ft.
At 1000rwhp the chassis/ drivetrain/cert needs alot of work and a skilled driver will be looking for low 8 sec passes.

I may not need 800-1000rwhp to run mid 9's but I might want 1000whp in the future. I'm just looking for a solid bottom end for another 10 years. Car is 3600lbs. My weak link at the moment is the 200-4R. Front suspension is all QA1 tubular with double adjustable QA1 coil-overs. Rear suspension is double adjustable control arms with QA1 double adjustable coil-overs too. Eaton posi with 30 spline moser axles. Drive shaft is a carbon fiber unit with 1350 joints. 12" Wilwood front disc brakes but the rears are stock at the moment. It's a work in progress.

 

[Turbo1dr]

My TA motor is a budget build. I put it together in 2017 with a 3.625 gn1 crank, Molnar 6.325 rods, 10.5:1 compression and a 225/225 114lsa cam. It’s usually at the 800hp flywheel level though I have run it higher….. it’s very docile imo, very quiet and smooth. Gets quite a few miles on it and has been trouble free with the exception of a nitrile rear main seal that chunked out a bit and got replaced by a Viton piece. Not sure I’d want to push it to 1000 flywheel let alone 1000 wheel with the “economy” crank & rods that are in it but it’s been a perfect engine for years right where it’s at.

That's basically what I have in mind but knowing the engine has a crank that's about at its limit would worry me some. I've seen some vendor advertise a stroker crank that's a 1200hp crank. Is that the one you've got?

 

[Mr.Spool]

That's basically what I have in mind but knowing the engine has a crank that's about at its limit would worry me some. I've seen some vendor advertise a stroker crank that's a 1200hp crank. Is that the one you've got?

The stroker crank will do 1200
Less has made that

 

[Mr.Spool]

I may not need 800-1000rwhp to run mid 9's but I might want 1000whp in the future. I'm just looking for a solid bottom end for another 10 years. Car is 3600lbs. My weak link at the moment is the 200-4R. Front suspension is all QA1 tubular with double adjustable QA1 coil-overs. Rear suspension is double adjustable control arms with QA1 double adjustable coil-overs too. Eaton posi with 30 spline moser axles. Drive shaft is a carbon fiber unit with 1350 joints. 12" Wilwood front disc brakes but the rears are stock at the moment. It's a work in progress.

Send the 200 to dave husek if you want 1000hp
I've seen his and personally ran his 200s to the bigger power areas and I'm very happy.

 

[Mr.Spool]

Also
Taking your weight down from 3600 to 3000 and below will make you never really want that 1000rwhp@3600lbs
You can go alot faster at the lighter weights will far less power
Trust me
800/900 fwhp and you will hammering and creating we much less stress on the engine build.
Power to weight ratio should be the highest priority if you want to go really fast and your not in a class that demands the car to be restricted.
Case in point
With your current build of 600rwhp
You could hit your goal of 9.5s if the car was lighter
You just would have to invest $$ to do that
Which is far less that a stage build
Ask me how I know

 

[BEATAV8]

That's basically what I have in mind but knowing the engine has a crank that's about at its limit would worry me some. I've seen some vendor advertise a stroker crank that's a 1200hp crank. Is that the one you've got?

Yes I want to say when I bought the crank they were calling it 1100hp capable. No idea how they came up with that number. I’ve never busted a crank or a rod but have seen some broken stuff posted that was nowhere near 1100hp but who knows what those folks were doing or how it was running or how it was balanced etc etc

 

[TurboWh1]

I had a similar goal but you will want to spend some time beefing up the back end of your car. I was seeing evidence of stress in the frame flex and even the body. I added a few chromolly crossmembers and rear control arm reinforcements. Probably over kill but hopefully it helps. I also agree with anything you can do to lighten your car. Mine is heavy too and sometimes that's just part of it.

 

[TIMINATOR]

The big behind the rear seat"Y" panel brace from the guy in Chicago is a must do. You can buy the lighter tin ones, or the smashed end tube ones, but they aren't as strong, nor do they have nearly as many attachment points.
Do everything once, and correctly the first time.
Or keep doing it again and again.
Or look at your rippled "C" pillars and deformed area between the back of the doors in front of the rear wheel wells, and wonder what's this gonna cost to fix, and repaint. Been there, done that, never fixed mine, and was pissed every time I looked at it.
Not only will the big thick brace prevent that body damage, it will also improve your launch and chassis reaction times by using the torque to move the car, rather than twist the body.
Many have been fast without the big brace, but if they never upgraded to the good stuff later, they still don't know what they are missing. JMHO
TIMINATOR

 

[Turbo1dr]

I appreciate the replies. Here's what I decided the new build will look like. Hopefully, it will get 700-800 *reliable* wheel horsepower with room to grow in the future.

TA Aluminum Block with 3.980" bore (270 cubic inches)
3.625" billet stroker crank
6.3" billet rods
Forged pistons with 20cc dish
Solid Roller Billet Cam 220-222, .570 lift. 112* lobe centerline
GN1R full race ported heads
1.65 Roller Rockers
GN1 Intake w/6 60lb injectors for low octane & 6 160lb injectors for high boost using Q16.
PT6870 V-band turbo with .96 exh hsg
ATR headers
3.5" downpipe
3.5" single exhaust
Front mount intercooler
XFI (might be going to a Holley Dominator)

 

[Haulz A]

I appreciate the replies. Here's what I decided the new build will look like. Hopefully, it will get 700-800 *reliable* wheel horsepower with room to grow in the future.

TA Aluminum Block with 3.980" bore (270 cubic inches)
3.625" billet stroker crank
6.3" billet rods
Forged pistons with 20cc dish
Solid Roller Billet Cam 220-222, .570 lift. 112* lobe centerline
GN1R full race ported heads
1.65 Roller Rockers
GN1 Intake w/6 60lb injectors for low octane & 6 160lb injectors for high boost using Q16.
PT6870 V-band turbo with .96 exh hsg
ATR headers
3.5" downpipe
3.5" single exhaust
Front mount intercooler
XFI (might be going to a Holley Dominator)

Nice build for your engine project- but I think your gona need more turbo (7675 turbo) to accomplish 800 RWHP. A turbo that will produce approximately 130 cfm of air bc with a production style cylinder head your only gona extract about 75- 80 efficiency out of a turbo at best. With that being said- 130 cfm X 10 = 1300 flywheel hp. 1300 hp minus 80% turbo compressor map efficiency= 1040 flywheel hp. 1040 flywheel hp minus 20% drive train parasitic loss = approx 840 -850 RWHP. Some cars tend to gain more depending on the type of fuel used, engine compression, solid roller cam shafts, light weigh valve train /engine components and how aggressive your tuner is. Ha good luck with your project- it looks like your gona have a nice engine once everything is completed.

Haulz A

 

[Chuck Leeper]

3710#, 142mph = 890FWHP. 1.52 60'.
Big motor, low boost, T 400, stock 3.42 gears.

 

[forcefed3.8's]

Nice build for your engine project- but I think your gona need more turbo (7675 turbo) to accomplish 800 RWHP. A turbo that will produce approximately 130 cfm of air bc with a production style cylinder head your only gona extract about 75- 80 efficiency out of a turbo at best. With that being said- 130 cfm X 10 = 1300 flywheel hp. 1300 hp minus 80% turbo compressor map efficiency= 1040 flywheel hp. 1040 flywheel hp minus 20% drive train parasitic loss = approx 840 -850 RWHP. Some cars tend to gain more depending on the type of fuel used, engine compression, solid roller cam shafts, light weigh valve train /engine components and how aggressive your tuner is. Ha good luck with your project- it looks like your gona have a nice engine once everything is completed.

Haulz A

His combo will get there no problem. I made 918rwhp with a 7168 .85 3 bolt turbo and 983rwhp with a 7270 .85 3 bolt. The 6870 is as capable or better than the 7168.

 

[broke]

His combo will get there no problem. I made 918rwhp with a 7168 .85 3 bolt turbo and 983rwhp with a 7270 .85 3 bolt. The 6870 is as capable or better than the 7168.

Always jumping in with good information and experience.

 

[Mr.Spool]

Nice build for your engine project- but I think your gona need more turbo (7675 turbo) to accomplish 800 RWHP. A turbo that will produce approximately 130 cfm of air bc with a production style cylinder head your only gona extract about 75- 80 efficiency out of a turbo at best. With that being said- 130 cfm X 10 = 1300 flywheel hp. 1300 hp minus 80% turbo compressor map efficiency= 1040 flywheel hp. 1040 flywheel hp minus 20% drive train parasitic loss = approx 840 -850 RWHP. Some cars tend to gain more depending on the type of fuel used, engine compression, solid roller cam shafts, light weigh valve train /engine components and how aggressive your tuner is. Ha good luck with your project- it looks like your gona have a nice engine once everything is completed.

Haulz A

Not too hard to get too 800rwhp on the smaller wheels these days
I've seen 980fwhp on a 67/71bbb 3 bolt .85 on a production style head and a stock block.
800+rwhp on a stage motor with production style head with a 6870bb v band also

 

[chasmat2316]

don't forget a rock solid fuel system & a very good tune.

 

[The_Six]

I brake 1k hp on e85 with my car hears how it was last on dyno .
4.1 ta aluminum engine, forged 4340 stroker crankshaft, molar forged rods, ross racing pistons, rjc deep oil pan, custom solid roller camshaft, ta performance roller rockers, ta performance professionally ported aluminum heads with flow sheet,3/8 pushrods,ta performance blue printed front oil pump assembly, champion race intake fully ported and powder coated, powder coated valve covers, champion 70mm polished throttle body and plenum,precision turbo gen2 pt7675 cease polished, rjc megacooler ,ta performance headers, rjc 5 inch down pipe, rjc 4 inch single exhaust with electric exhaust cutout, tr6 ignition, the newer boost leash version, fast xfi engine management with edash and egt Monitoring each cylinder, ck performance th400 fully built with forward shift pattern and tranbrake, Ptc 17 blade converter, derale remote transmission cooler, 3 half inch drive shaft, mosher engineering Ford 9 powder coated with back brace,3.25 gears 40 spline axles, spool, 1/2 studs, wildwood disc brakes, hr rear swaybar/anti-roll bar,and lower arms, baseline upper control arms, welded hr support boxes for upper and lower, viking custom coilovers shocks, front suspension trz upper and lower control arms, trz spindles with billet aluminum steering arms, viking custom coilovers shocks, trz manual rack and pinion steering, wildwood disk brakes, fiberglass hood with latches, fiberglass front and back bumper, aluminum brackets, new upholstery, aftermarket dash cluster, moonroof, nhra certified roll cage, carbon fiber covers, 5 point harness with stock seatbelts, 10 gallon fuel cell, Weldon 2345 fuel pump with controller, teflon fuel lines, dual feed fuel rails, precision 225 injectors, flex fuel sensor,