So ive finally got my regal back (moved away for a while) and decided its time to get it running, however the fuel lines were leaking. unfortunately the hack job who owned the car before me cut the fuel lines halfway down the car and ran rubber hoses right by the exhaust. trying to find out what size the factory lines are, and am open to any suggestions. I was thinking of running stainless steel braided fuel line from where the lines were cut back to the pump. any tips/suggestions would be appreciated. thank you.
84 T-type fuel lines
- Thread starter nickd2689
- Start date
NorCalTurbos
Slowing down to SPEED UP!!!
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2013
Try gbody parts and by a factory fit set, you don't wanna jimmy rig your fuel lines trust me
I actually checked on g body parts already and they only have the 86/87 feed/return lines. Ive got 2 lines on the passenger side (feed/return) and one on the driver side (evaporative emission?) i wont jimmy rig the lines however my main concern is getting the fuel system functional so i can diag my no start issue.
NorCalTurbos
Slowing down to SPEED UP!!!
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2013
Other than leaky lines is everything else working like do u have spark, is ecm getting 12v, cam sensor set proper good wires and fresh plugs also coil pack and ignition module could keep u from firing up. Lemme know how things turn out
Well the car has sat for a few years, when i last checked, i had fuel at the rail, crank/cam signals, ive never set a cam sensor so id have to read up on that. I remember thinking spark looked weak and suspected the ignition module (everything else had been replaced) but wanted to start with a battery because mine tested about 230 cca. Unfortionately i moved abruptly so i never got a chance to completely diag the car. Sorry that was so long
NorCalTurbos
Slowing down to SPEED UP!!!
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2013
Yea u need to start with a good 12v and keep the jump box handy lol! Do some spring cleaning, have u read the stickys??? If not check it out
yeah ive still gotta do the iac, everything else is done though. it will be a little while before I have the extra cash for the lines, but im hopin to get it figured out/running soon after. the last time it ran it died and wouldn't restart and that was about 5 years ago, so im expecting more issues when I get it goin.
NorCalTurbos
Slowing down to SPEED UP!!!
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2013
You're at least on the right track these cars are money pits just be prepared to spend but be smart don't just throw parts at it keep it basic get it narrowed down eliminate the lil stuff and have patients
NorCalTurbos
Slowing down to SPEED UP!!!
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2013
Mine sat 11 yrs and fired up almost instantly but I went through many headaches
But trust me when it runs it will be worth it
But trust me when it runs it will be worth itNorCalTurbos
Slowing down to SPEED UP!!!
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2013
Mine sat 11 yrs and fired up almost instantly but I went through many headaches But trust me when it runs it will be worth it
But trust me when it runs it will be worth itNorCalTurbos
Slowing down to SPEED UP!!!
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2013
Mine sat 11 yrs and fired up almost instantly but I went through many headaches
Mine started right up but ran like shit pig rich back firing fuel in the oil I thought my rings were bad after doing some reading and head scratching I flipped the cam 180 car ran damn near perfectMine sat 11 yrs and fired up almost instantly but I went through many headaches
NorCalTurbos
Slowing down to SPEED UP!!!
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2013
Sorry dogg, I took the cam sensor out and set 180 degrees from where it was all the timing specs are in the stickys crank should be 25 degrees atdc cam sensor voltage low showing the cam is closed 0-2 volts I moved mine it won't get lower than like .5v but run fine this way trust me read the sticky tread
NorCalTurbos
Slowing down to SPEED UP!!!
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2013
It didn't move I built my motor from a short block I set the cam sensor wrong from jump
