9-inch rear: drum-to-drum g-body kits (Strange, Moser, etc...) fit w/o fabbing?

drum brakes or disk brakes

I ordered the 11 inch drum brakes with my Moser 9 inch and I know the disk setup will provide better braking on the big end, but has anybody got experience as to which brakes, the drums or the disks, will hold more boost on the footbrake for easing into the staging lites prior to setting the transbrake ?

I have manual brakes, no power assist.

George
 
Usually drums will hold better,there is more surface area in contact as compared to disc's.

What size is yout master cylinder? 1" ,7/8" etc?

Hydroboost setups work good.
 
George. Try a 14" 130# spring for starters. These QA1's are cheap and if they are not what you need, you can return them and get something else. I run the 14" 130 on my car but I have seen a few with 14" 110-120 to get the ride height correct.

You would have to run a very tall spring with a light rating to achieve what you are looking for. If that's your ultimate goal then look into a 16" spring with a 90# rating or so. You can even call QA1 and they can direct you to what your looking for. They can better advise you on if that spring will work or if the rate will be to light.

My opinion is you need the correct spring height to match shock travel which is usually a 14" spring unless you get custom shocks. The shocks should be disconnected from the rear when you jack the car up like you describe anyway and you shouldn't expect the spring to stay in place. I know it's a pain the get everything back into position but the proper spring for your set-up at ride height is much more important than the spring staying in place when the rear is dropped out of position. The lower the ride height, the happier the suspension is and the better it drives.


Just ordered a set of 14/130's and a set of 14/110's hoping to get my ride height correct ( the way I want it ):smile:

Thanks Scott and Dusty

George
 
Im in this same position as we speak. Trying to figure out which unit to buy which is all dependant on which I can afford ..

Dusty is certainly having great luck with his , and its not even braced!
 
Just spoke to Doug @ QP. Super nice guy and has a back ground in Turbo 6 Buicks! I hope to order something from him by weeks end. :)
 
Might also want to look at the Strange S60.. these are hard to beat for the money. They are cheaper than a 9" and they come standard with 35 spline axles. For the street/strip guys they offer (for the Dana) a posi up to 35 spline.

They weight more, but they are super strong (larger ring gear than a 9").. and rob less HP.

Just an idea... I have had a couple of 9" for projects and a S60.. they are all nice. (dont ask.. nothing I own runs :) ).

Just an option..
 
Strange no longer makes the S60 for our cars. They said the demand was not there for them to continue making them.
 
Rick,
I never looked at them closely till now. You are right, the S60s are quite bit cheaper than the 9in. Too bad the dont make em anymore.
 
Wow.. that is really suprising! They were a great deal for what you got... guess not many knew about or looked into them.

I recall Moser and DTS offering the same Dana 60 set ups.. might check them as well..

I just went on DTS's website and I see it listed...

1978 - 1987 G-Body (12 Bolt - Dana 60 - F-9)
Custom Housing Applications

Worth a look for anybody interested in changing out rear ends. :)

HTH
 
Cody,

Did Strange tell you that directly?

I see them still listed on their website.. just curious.

Thx
 
George. Try a 14" 130# spring for starters. These QA1's are cheap and if they are not what you need, you can return them and get something else. I run the 14" 130 on my car but I have seen a few with 14" 110-120 to get the ride height correct.

You would have to run a very tall spring with a light rating to achieve what you are looking for. If that's your ultimate goal then look into a 16" spring with a 90# rating or so. You can even call QA1 and they can direct you to what your looking for. They can better advise you on if that spring will work or if the rate will be to light.

My opinion is you need the correct spring height to match shock travel which is usually a 14" spring unless you get custom shocks. The shocks should be disconnected from the rear when you jack the car up like you describe anyway and you shouldn't expect the spring to stay in place. I know it's a pain the get everything back into position but the proper spring for your set-up at ride height is much more important than the spring staying in place when the rear is dropped out of position. The lower the ride height, the happier the suspension is and the better it drives.


Thanks Dusty,

Installed both sets of QA1's ( 14-130's and 14 110's ) Settled on the 110's as this brought the rear down by 1 1/2 inches. Just where I wanted it. Looks much better now.:smile:

Now, I should talk to you about a converter ;)

George
 
Thanks Dusty,

Installed both sets of QA1's ( 14-130's and 14 110's ) Settled on the 110's as this brought the rear down by 1 1/2 inches. Just where I wanted it. Looks much better now.:smile:

Now, I should talk to you about a converter ;)

George

PM me if you need the #:)
 
You're exactly right ! I thought the same thing. I sold my 8.5 for $850 and got a complet 9" with Wilwood disk brakes, Strange center, and 35 spline axles, ready to bolt in for $2400 to my door. It would of costed more to upgrade the posi, axles, and Ford ends on my 8.5
Get in touch with Quick Performance out of Iowa. They're the cheapest and do an amazing job. I have a spool in mine, If you want to go limited slip or locker, it will be a couple hundred more.
I'll see if I can find you some pics. Good Luck. Scott

+1. Quick Performance took care of me on my 10.xx Malibu. I'll run that rear into the nines...
 
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