A/C Compressor rotating resistance??

[theMonch]

So i started up the gn on sunday, and while she was warmimg up I kept hearimg a clicking on and off of a relay. Popped the hood and I saw that it was the AC clutch engaging and disengaging on and off every three to five seconds or so. The AC wasnt on inside the vehicle. Is this normal?

It gets better. About 2 minutes go by with me staring at it to see if it stops when she warms, up and BANG...CRACKLE....SNAP, the serpentine belt disappears into the engine compartment. I shut her down real quick to investigate and notice that the PS pump has been torn off by the mishap. I further investigate to see that both of the PS mounting bolts must have come loose (or were never properly tightened). One of them was fine, but the other was broken off in the bracket.

My question is, I was checking the rotating resistance of the AC compressor by grabbing the clutch on the front and turning. It seems to rotate with quite a bit of force(probably a few ft lbs). The pulley itself rotates freely on the clutch. Is this normal? Is there a decent amount of resistance in the compressors rotation? I ask because I am trying to figure out if the belt throwing mishap is related to the compressor starting to freeze up or something, or if it was just negligence on whoever was last supposed to tighten those PS bolts.

Luckily there was no damage beyond the PS bolt breaking and a few small knicks in the intercooler fan.

Anyone have any input on this?

 

[mikestertwo]

If you can turn the compressor by hand it is most likely ok. The main issue is why is it turning on and off so quickly. The compressor does run if you have the defroster on. Did you have all the climate controls turned off?

 

[TURBOTWIN2]

The broken & loose bolts on your bracket were why the belt came off, nothing to do with the A/C compressor. The P/S pump/pulley flopping around let the serp. belt slip off.
Ditto what mikester said on the A/C controls in the defrost position. Yes, you should be able to turn the A/C clutch by hand with some resistance.

 

[TurboDave]

So i started up the gn on sunday, and while she was warmimg up I kept hearimg a clicking on and off of a relay. Popped the hood and I saw that it was the AC clutch engaging and disengaging on and off every three to five seconds or so. The AC wasnt on inside the vehicle. Is this normal?

It gets better. About 2 minutes go by with me staring at it to see if it stops when she warms, up and BANG...CRACKLE....SNAP, the serpentine belt disappears into the engine compartment. I shut her down real quick to investigate and notice that the PS pump has been torn off by the mishap. I further investigate to see that both of the PS mounting bolts must have come loose (or were never properly tightened). One of them was fine, but the other was broken off in the bracket.

My question is, I was checking the rotating resistance of the AC compressor by grabbing the clutch on the front and turning. It seems to rotate with quite a bit of force(probably a few ft lbs). The pulley itself rotates freely on the clutch. Is this normal? Is there a decent amount of resistance in the compressors rotation? I ask because I am trying to figure out if the belt throwing mishap is related to the compressor starting to freeze up or something, or if it was just negligence on whoever was last supposed to tighten those PS bolts.

Luckily there was no damage beyond the PS bolt breaking and a few small knicks in the intercooler fan.

Anyone have any input on this?

When you started it up was the HVAC control set to a defrost/defog setting? That runs the compressor.

When compressors are cycling on and off rapidly like that it usually indicates a low freon charge.

 

[theMonch]

Thanks all. I confirmed that the defogger was in the on position. That would explain the compressor cycling. I'll have to check the charge when I get her back together. The AC always blew ice cold, so I would assume that the charge was ok. Yeah, I figured that the pump came loose and that's why everything came apart, but I just wanted to confirm the compressor's resistance, before I go putting everything back together.

Thanks again.

I'll let you know how I make out.

 

[theMonch]

OK, all back together now. Luckily I was able to drill the bolt that broke off it the PS bracket without removing it from engine. Put some 10mm longer bolts in and it worked out. In having to remove the intercooler piping MAF pipe etc. I found a sensor of some kind just laying loose in the engine compartment by the MAF sensor. I've never had a TR with the stock intake setup, so I dont know if it is some sensor that went in there or something.

Can someone identify it, and if so is it ok fror this thing to just be dangling around? Sorry for the blurry picts, had to take them with phone camera.

 

[Smokin-6]

It is the sensor that sits in the air box (or aftermarket air filter) that reads air temperature. Some people leave it danggling there. Mine is poped in my K&N filter and I can read the temp from my Scanmaster.

 

[aminga]

IAT sensor. Goes in the stock A/F elbow. Most just drill a hole in the K&N and put it in there.

 

[theMonch]

That's what I thought it was. So I guess that it is pretty bad that it was just dangling there and has all grease in the sensor tip? I have had a surging idle ever since I bought the car. Not horrible but definetly surging up and down slightly. Do you think this could have anything to do with this sensor being in this condition?

I am going to get a new one and put it in the intake regardless. Does it have to be ahead of the MAF? or can I put it after it, or should I put it directly into the filter element(K&N)?

 

[aminga]

That's what I thought it was. So I guess that it is pretty bad that it was just dangling there and has all grease in the sensor tip? I have had a surging idle ever since I bought the car. Not horrible but definetly surging up and down slightly. Do you think this could have anything to do with this sensor being in this condition?

I am going to get a new one and put it in the intake regardless. Does it have to be ahead of the MAF? or can I put it after it, or should I put it directly into the filter element(K&N)?

Depends on the chip but it shouldn't.

 

[mikestertwo]

I am going to get a new one and put it in the intake regardless. Does it have to be ahead of the MAF? or can I put it after it, or should I put it directly into the filter element(K&N)?

Normally goes between the MAF and the air filter.

 

[theMonch]

Thanks again everyone. I will get that put in it's proper place.

 

[salvageV6]

A little dirt shouldn't hurt that sensor, it's a thermistor type and it has a plastic cage over the element.

Light compressed air or a computer keyboard air spray, or sensor safe electronics spray should clean it up fine.

Or wipe it off with a rag damp (NOT SOAKED) with denatured or iso. alky.

You can read the air temps. on the scanmaster so with the car cold left overnight, at ambient air temps., turn the key on and read your house thermometer should be close to the same reading if the sensor is working right.