About to spend some cash...HELP!!!

Thanks. Already have 160 thermo in. If the 42's are better then that is what I will look at. I was going to ask Turbo tweek what he recommended. As for the braces, I am a chassis guy all the way. I will have boxed rear arms and Bilsteins before anything else. I was considering the other braces as well. I need to make known that I will only run this car a few times and not in the near future, so cut-outs and DR's are not key for now. I run the Mickey Thompson Flame treads on a set of Five window ET'S. 255-60-15 rears on 15x8's.
You guys are good. So far I'm at about $2500.00 bucks and the thread is less than 24 hours old...LOL
Good thing I didn't ask for 10's...LOL
Do you guys work on commission...LOL
Thanks for all and keep the ideas coming.
Coach
 
I'd throw an aluminum radiator in while getting things updated. Better, more efficient cooling, reliablity, etc. I happen to have one for sale, brand new. :D
 
Thank you RedC5, but that is a little down the list. I was thinking of that when I change intercoolers and turbos. Thank you
 
Hey, just wondering who makes the best timing chain set for these and where to buy it? Thanks Coach
 
A good chip from TurboTweak.com. You can make a cold air intake from various pieces you can find at Lowes or Home Depot and save some money. A bigger K&N filter will be a good helper in getting started.
 
more should be said about the best mod for these cars,after all the supporting upgrades of course,is the alky injection....pump gas will alway have you limited to 15 maybe 17lbs.of boost,or it will knock ... the alky kit,namley razors "alky control" allows easy adjustability,quality components and support. you can runs boost up to 25/26 lbs.on the street and along with the turbo tweak chip,can add timing to make an honest 200 hp more. my car is a blast now...traction being the biggest issue. nittos 555s work well.:smile:
 
coach said:
Thanks. Already have 160 thermo in. If the 42's are better then that is what I will look at. I was going to ask Turbo tweek what he recommended. As for the braces, I am a chassis guy all the way. I will have boxed rear arms and Bilsteins before anything else. I was considering the other braces as well. I need to make known that I will only run this car a few times and not in the near future, so cut-outs and DR's are not key for now. I run the Mickey Thompson Flame treads on a set of Five window ET'S. 255-60-15 rears on 15x8's.
You guys are good. So far I'm at about $2500.00 bucks and the thread is less than 24 hours old...LOL
Good thing I didn't ask for 10's...LOL
Do you guys work on commission...LOL
Thanks for all and keep the ideas coming.
Coach
Click to expand...

I run Dunlap 235/60/15's and got a 1.98 60' time.

Remember to Keep It Simple.. Basic mods and replace 20 year old parts that are bad. That's really all you need to do.

You can get a timing set here: Special Additions: Timing Set Complete, Engine and Under Hood, TimingSet
 
Hey Coach

My 86T was completeyly stock(45K original miles) up until a few weeks ago. After researching all the different combo's and talking with John P (aka Disco Stu) I had him hook me up with installation of the following bolt-ons.

TT 93 chip w/ alky and 60lb injectors
Racetronix FP and HW kit
Adj FP regulator
MAF Pipe w/ 8" K&N filter underhood
Razor Alky Kit
Hooker 2.5" exhaust
Scanmaster/boost gauge

All in all most of the above really weren't go fast goodies but essential upgrades for improved drivability and realiability. However, the alky kit put me at 22 psi and the car definitely has plenty of "UMPH" now.
 
Does anyone make a double roller chain, or is an OEM replacement the best way to go? My first money is going to Kirbans for their brace kits. I read an old post from psycho6cyl and he stressed suspension and stiffening up the car before any other mods. I am a chassis nut, so this makes sense to me. This ALKY must be awesome, I will have to ask some more questions about it later. Where can I get a set of factory trailing arms to box in? Braces, springs, air-bags and boxed arms are happening ASAP. I am also putting on the Bilsteins.I think this is the best first move, right Psycho???
Thanks
Coach
 
Gbodyparts.com

brian probably has the lower control arms. I have a brand new set of the weld in plates and the greaseable poli-bushings for the lowers, from HRpartsandstuff. A used set of Kirban's rear seat braces in perfect condition, that I never installed,because I purchased another GN w/the HR swaybar and roll-cage. Now I have a lot of stuff I don't need.:frown: $115.00+ shipping:) Sorry, didn't mean to hi-jack!:eek:
 
A little off track, but what of this TA-49 replacement turbo. Article I read said, 45 bolt on ponies without another mod...true or untrue??? A turbo is on next winters list with intercooler and I guess ALKY. Just wanting to confirm the facts in the article. I will have the rest of the fuel system ready for those mods when funds become available.

This ALKY, is it controlled by your ECM or is it a button like NOS? Remember, I am not familiar with this. So if you laughing,thinking I am a real moron, close but no cigar. Moron is a family member. LOL. I just do not know how it works. I have always delt with NOS , just push the button when your loosing and then your winnin' .

You guys are super, but I got to go. 9 year anniversary today, I gonna go play with my other toy, before the other half gets home...LOL
 
The alky is controlled by a supplied GM 3 bar MAP(manifold air pressure) and a controller that sends a signal to spin a pump.. the pump then shoots alcohol into the motor,, which cools the charge and adds octane.

There is a forum for alcohol injection on this site further down.. and lots of reading on my website WWW.ALKYCONTROL.COM

I agree on the chain and springs. The only thing is you need to make sure the cam gear is hardened. The Melling sets most of the time are. Stock replacement chain are fine.. as long as the gears are/were hardened. Easy way to test.. get a file.. if you can file into the cam sprocket.. guess what :wink:

Leave the stock turbo alone. As long as its not smoking.. it will make the car plenty fast when you crank up the boost. Leaving the boost at 15PSI.. doesnt matter at turbo you put on the motor. Actually a larger turbo will run slower at the same 15 PSI as it takes longer to spool up.

Hope this helps. These cars are easy ;)
 
Timing chain here FULL THROTTLE SPEED - Item Description Page
It's been posted here and elsewhere but the alky is a supplimental fuel system. The system is comprised of a resivore, pump, controller, 3 bar map, nozzle(s), lines and fittings. The just of the system (abridged I know) is to inject Methanol (methal ALKYhol) under pressure into the incomming air from the turbo to the throttle blade. The pump pressure ramps up based on boost (and a few other things) and as the meth is injected it evaporates and cools the incoming air AND meth has a great octane rating. Jon Hanson
 
I got a mellings stock style timing chain with the metal (cast) gears, works great on a daily driver & costs less than a roller chain.

Definately get the Scanmaster before doing any mods.

I know its a lot of bucks, however, the Terry Houston 3' downpipe made the car continue to pull hard well above 70mph on the butt dyno. with the stock downpipe & still the stock turbo the car seemed to kinda flatten out above 60mph.

On a "t top" car I would put all available frame braces on & a complete set of new after market Polyurethane body bushings, including the GNX bushings. I can't remember where I got them, but it was either Summit or Jegs.

My stock injectors were not perfofming well & I got 42# units - price really jumps for anything larger.

Big bucks, but the 12" brakes are worth it.

I'd go with 2 1/2 pipes. I don't know how you feel about loud exhaust, but I'm installing a x flow muffler to quiet the drone. I don't feel comfortable on long trips - short trips I can live with, but I drive the wife's Avalon on long trips.

A turbo is expensive, i'd wait.

I'm seriously considering an aluminum radiator.

John P (aka Disco Stu) is giving you good advice.

MOST IMPORTANT get a Scanmaster.
 
Thanks Roger, I am getting all the brace kits for sure. I am also doing Bilsteins on the 4 corners. I am also boxing a set of factory trailing arms and doing bushings. I already put in Kirban rear springs and I am going to add bags at the same time as braces. I think next will be Hooker cat-back. Then I will start on the fuel system. Adjustable reg, cold-air kit , power plate and walbro. I think that will do it for this years budget. I have already upholstered the trunk and redone stereo system.

Next fall I want to change some other items , but it depends on cash flow. I have a 65 Plymouth 2 door post for sale. If it sells, here comes intercooler, BBturbo, ALKY, tranny and convert. Enough for low 11's or high 10's.

Thanks to all,
Coach
 
Coah, sorry I didnt get back sooner.. I wouldnt even take the trouble to pull arms do bushings and then box them.. I just installed a set of MEtco lower trailing arms (cost 269 for the pair, but worth it) and i did bushings and boxed the uppers myself.. If the Metco are too much UMI sells them for about 120.00 w poly bushings. Some say poly bind some dont... Its all prefence.... Im instaling Edelbrock shocks on my car.. I will post on how the ride is..... I cant remember if ure fuel pump is hot wired or not.. If not thats a definite on the todo now list...
 
I agree with getting a scanmaster as the most important thing you can do to not blow your stuff up. Alky next if you want to see the real power of these cars. If your are going to buy a turbo get a 61 or 66 bb.

just an opinion
 
Thanks Psycho, I am pretty handy with a welder so I can do factory for now. My $$$ for mods is being spread pretty thin. I have to sell some other parts to keep going. The bushings I am getting are lubeable so binding should be limited. This is a street car only. I have a MAX WEDGE Dodge that turns mid 11's at a sneez on DOT's, so racing it takes the edge off. I bought the Buick because there is no better looking car than a shiny blacked out GN. Even if they were a 305 slug, they look great. I just want it to go, and it seems pretty easy to do with these cars.
As for the pump being hotwired, I have not got that far, but when I do it will be done. I have heard all kinds of great info on this thread and mosteveryone is on the same page. I really look foward to checking my thread each day for new info.
Superjaay, a scanmaster will be up top of the short list. ALKY is still "under investigation", I need to ask more questions. A turbo is on next years list unless my 65 Plymouth sells this summer. If it goes, look out vender page!!!

Being called for supper...Coach
 
Coach,

I see you have spent time under the car.

I got my poly body frame mount bushings from Summit for about $100. When you start to locate them you'll surely find some are missing. I've heard speculation that the factory did not install all of them & never installed the GNX above the rear axle. As I mentioned earlier, these are important to properly mate the body to the frame. Only better alternative is a cage.

Roger
 
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