Advice on removing crossover pipe

Joeld

Active Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2013
Hi all, I need to do my rear main seal and looking for advice on removing the stock cross over pipe.
I've not done before and assume there are pitfalls to avoid and an easy way and a hard way. I'm looking for the easier the better as I don't have a lift.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Joel
 
Just get the car up as high as you can. The bolts will be all rusted to hell but you should be able to get them out. I don't recall ever having trouble removing the cross-over. The hard part is getting it to seal back up when you put it on.
 
get about two feet of extentions with a wobble on the end. Put a shallow 15mm socket on it and you've got a good enough bite to not booger up the bolt head.

If they haven't been off in a long time, try and remove as much rust as up top as possible then put some sort of lube on them. While they're off, wire brush the hell out of the threads and coat them with anti-seeze before reinstalling.
 
Use a lot of penetrating oil and if you can soak them real good overnight before you start.

ks
 
They come off easily with the extension and shallow socket. The only time they don't is when they are cross threaded or wrong bolt thread used. I replace them with 15mm hex flange head bolt. Installation is easier with the flange head. If the threads are a mess you can put thread inserts in
 
Thank you guys
At first blush it looks like a nut and bolt I was wondering how to get a grip on the bolt at top
Or does the header have a threaded stud?

After taking a long look last night I think I may need to do my valve cover gaskets also

The car is bone stock with 17,588 miles therefore I expect I will have some trouble with the nuts

Thanks again guys for the quick and detailed responses

Joel
 
Use a lot of penetrating oil and if you can soak them real good overnight before you start.
10 4 on that , I just did one about 2 weeks ago but I have a lift and made the job alot easier but it can be done in the floor , take oil pan bolts out and pan will come out , I took the long motor mount bolts out also to raise the engine up to get oil pan back in without fighting with the oil pan gasket and oil pan and frame . grease the heck out of the rear main seal to make it slide in easy , be sure to turn it righ to keep the lip ,split seals, being installed in the wrong way , I used the high temp gray silicon to seal the ends in the main cap also and the pan gasket and hope it goes well , take your time is the main thing .
 
The header has a welded nut in the flange. The bolt comes out the bottom. (assuming it's stock)
 
I converted my stock headers to SS studs so I just had to tighten a nut on instead of trying to line up 4 rusty 25 yr old bolts.
 
Thank you all I understand now
I will shoot with PB and clean up as much as possible prior to taking appart
I will likely do valve covers as well
Yes it is stock
Sat in storage for last 17 years so going through all things I can prior to first real drive
Only drove it onto and off of trailer so far
Not looking forward to first tank of ethanol gas
Thanks again!
 
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