Caster being set at 5* negative is kicking the wheel back towards you in the drivers, passengers seat. This helps with high speed handling. Think of it as a grocery cart front wheel. When you run tall ball joints this is what you are trying to achieve...negative caster. As for the camber measurement, the more negative the better the car will handle in aggressive turning higher speed situations. Next time you look at the back tires on an x5 BMW or 730 series look at the rear wheel tilt, it calls for -3* camber...all for the handling aspect. On a rear wheel drive car, you want a .25* degree toe in. Think of toe in as point your feet IN together at your toes...this is your tires being toe in, reverse your feet, toe out!. Reason you want some toe in, is for when the car accelerates the rear tires push the front wheels toe out. Toe in - helps you achieve 0 toe angle.
My car has a complete setup UMI/Viking control coil over setup
I use the taller ball joints in the uppers.
I use these figures which I have set at my align shop to my liking
.5* toe in
-1.75 Camber
-5.5 Caster
Steers like a mofo, return of the steering wheel when making a turn is aggressive. Camber angle being negative makes the car have a better contact path, when pushing the speed in a corner...its fun shit. Toe angle being set in a little more than normal lets me push the crap out of the rear making the front stay close to 0 toe. I have a little more wear that normal from the negative camber, I need to stay up on my tire rotations, but the handling is next to none, close to being a road course car.