Are there any John Deere guru's on here?

[wb's87]

Hello, I tried going on a forum for John Deere "Tractor talk" and I got very little help. I know how awesome everyone is on this site so I was thinking why not give my TB.com brothers and sister's a shout for help? LOL.

I have a 38" lawn tractor model LT133. I was cutting my grass and shut it down to empty the grass catcher bags. Upon trying to re-start to continue cutting, the mower did nothing. I checked the battery thinking it may have died but it is putting out +/- 13.0 volts. I could here an occasional click coming from the starter solenoid so thinking this was the culprit I replaced it with a new OEM solenoid. Still nothing. I am at a loss here. I checked the brake pedal switch, only to the point that it was firmly plugged in, also the same with the blade engagement switch.

I used my jumper cables attached to my truck. The other end I attached to the NEG on the mower battery. I touched the POS cable to the POS on the starter with the key on and the mower fired right up. Runs great. shuts off with the key. All systems function as they should.

Any and all help with this no crank issue is greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance, Bill

 

[TexasT]

Meter, do you have one or borrow one? Does the battery show twelve volts or more? Might have to have the battery load tested. How old is the battery?

 

[John Larkin]

Can you trace the positive cable from the starter to where it originates? See if touching it with the jumper cable at the other end causes the starter to engage. It should go to your starter solenoid.

What I am getting at is if you work backwards you will find the break in power to the starter.

 

[Jicaju]

Does it have a safety switch under seat? If it does check that.

 

[wb's87]

Does it have a safety switch under seat? If it does check that.

Seat safety switch is good. Thank you.


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[wb's87]

Can you trace the positive cable from the starter to where it originates? See if touching it with the jumper cable at the other end causes the starter to engage. It should go to your starter solenoid.

What I am getting at is if you work backwards you will find the break in power to the starter.

I will try it. Good idea. Thanks.


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[wb's87]

Meter, do you have one or borrow one? Does the battery show twelve volts or more? Might have to have the battery load tested. How old is the battery?

The battery is about 3 yrs old. With no load it's reading like 13.4 volts. I don't know how to test it with a load.


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[TT/Ameasap]

I had a bad solenoid once and it sounds like what you described.

 

[wb's87]

I had a bad solenoid once and it sounds like what you described.

I thought it was a bad starter solenoid, so I bought a new one and replaced it. Still no go tho.

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[TexasT]

When you turn the key does the solenoid "click"? With your meter are you getting power (the 13.4v) to the post the cable is connected to?. When you turn the key to start the solenoid should 'click' and your other post should show the 13.4v(you probably need a helper to turn the key). If we have power there on to the post at the starter. 13.4v there with the key in the start position? If yes I'd say have that battery load tested as it seems it doesn't have enough "umph" to turn it over.

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[wb's87]

When you turn the key does the solenoid "click"? With your meter are you getting power (the 13.4v) to the post the cable is connected to?. When you turn the key to start the solenoid should 'click' and your other post should show the 13.4v(you probably need a helper to turn the key). If we have power there on to the post at the starter. 13.4v there with the key in the start position? If yes I'd say have that battery load tested as it seems it doesn't have enough "umph" to turn it over.

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I figured out the problem. You hit the nail on the head. The battery under no load appeared to be fine. But it has no cranking power. I replaced the battery and all is good. Thank you to all that offered help!

Bill Brooks


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[TexasT]

Glad you got it worked out.

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[TRICKSIXPA]

Mine was the starter solenoid it was cracked and rusted. I went through all this last year.
Glad you got it running!

 

[wb's87]

Mine was the starter solenoid it was cracked and rusted. I went through all this last year.
Glad you got it running!

I wish I hadn't replaced the starter solenoid. I'm pretty sure it was fine. It's not worth it to try and return it. That little thing was actually a pita to change. Lol.

Thanks to all that helped! Bill


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[TRICKSIXPA]

I only had a problem with the bolts underneath that hold it to the chasis. I cleaned up the Pos and Neg wires charged my battery and no problems for over a year. Didnt even have to charge the battery this year it just started right up in the spring. if it gets me through another season I will be happy. Free tractor but I dumped like $300 into to bring it back to life. Tires, belts, pulley, Solenoid, and tune up kit. I slapped a GN magnet on the back it was pretty much like working on one after I was through with it.

 

[DOUGGN]

I figured out the problem. You hit the nail on the head. The battery under no load appeared to be fine. But it has no cranking power. I replaced the battery and all is good. Thank you to all that offered help!

Bill Brooks


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An easy way to check the "load ability" of the battery is to turn on the lights on the tractor(I'm assuming your tractor has headlights). They should shine bright (they don't draw much power). Try cranking the engine - if the lights immediately go dim you know the output of the battery is not what it should be. If they stay bright during the attempted crank - you know you have a problem elsewhere.

 

[BuickMike]

An easy way to check the "load ability" of the battery is to turn on the lights on the tractor(I'm assuming your tractor has headlights). They should shine bright (they don't draw much power). Try cranking the engine - if the lights immediately go dim you know the output of the battery is not what it should be. If they stay bright during the attempted crank - you know you have a problem elsewhere.

Or if it has no lights just hook up your volt meter and watch volts while attempting to crank. If the battery has a bad cell, the volts will drop significantly.

 

[wb's87]

Thanks everyone it's fixed. The battery must have had a bad cell.


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