Best Bang for the Buck for Your Turbo Regal....A Poll

[Lee_Burough]

We're polling to discover your most successful modifications for an Intercooled Turbo Regal:

Lets assume a good SPRING CLEANING, and the following modifications to start:

Scantool -absolutely mandatory, buy this FIRST
Get a real boost gauge
160 degree thermostat
Fan switches
Cold air kit
Adjustable wastegate
Adjustable fuel pressure regulator
Upgraded fuel pump (hot wire kit too)
Power Plate
Lockup switch for the converter
Test pipe (for track use only )

Our purpose here is to stimulate friendly discussion as well as provide a reference point for new Turbo Regal owners to contemplate their first steps.

Please take some time to reflect on your experience(s) before you vote

Vote for two.

Added OCT 08:

once you are sure its healthy. (spring cleaning recommendations above)

A balanced approach is important, with realistic goals.

A basic beginner recipe would be:

Always run the best fuel you can find
Scantool
boost gauge
fuel pressure gauge
fuel pump hotwire kit
K&N cone air filter, perhaps a MAF pipe
remove one screen from the MAF
Cat Converter 'test pipe'
chip to match your combination.

If any shift takes longer than .5 seconds, then your trans needs attention.
If the transmission is working well, then a mild shift kit will help it hold up as you raise your performance. Run the trans at least .5 qt over full.

Run the boost at 18 psi in 1st and second, 17 in third.

tune for little to no knock retard

The above setup is a good performer and really wakes the car up from stock.

Bob

 

[RUQWKNF]

Here's my reasoning behind my two choices.
Kinda hard to choose just two, cause I kinda did 3 of them in the beginning to see my greatest results.

Back in '94, I purchased my first Turbo Buick. I immediately did the small stuff that you have listed above, except a Scanmaster didn't exist. So I went with an ATR A/F ratio meter. This was a bone stock '86 T-Type with 68,500 one owner miles. With regular 265/50/15s radial T/As, the car ran 14.00s @ 97 on 17psi and 93 octane and horrible 60 fts times.

The first thing to the list I did was install some 26x8.5 slicks onto the factory T-wheels. A race chip with Blue top injectors, thread the wastegate actuator and hook it up tuner style and 100# valve springs. Next it was gutted cat, with Super Turbo mufflers and turn downs. After fine tuning the car on race gas, e-brake launches at 14psi and running 23psi total, the car ran a best of 12.57 @ 107. This was within a 3 month period. It wasn't until I had reached a brick wall at a 12.09 @ 109 that I did my first turbo and intercooler upgrade.

The slicks gave me the traction needed for ET, the injectors, fuel pump, hot wire kit, adjustable regulator and chip all work together to allow you to turn up the boost on the stock turbo for the hp/mph. And the valve springs will let the motor flow like it's supposed to, vs falling on it's face at around 4500rpms. From here it would be alky kit, downpipe, cat back, then larger turbo and intercooler. And from there the disease just gets worse and worse.
Good thread Lee.

Patrick

 

[SouthernCal GN]

For a newbie, I'd recommend alky and good tires; the stock setup is capable of some amazing things, and we all know that the more you monkey with the cars, the more chance of failure you get.

Add alky, turn up the boost, add drag radials, and go have fun!!!

 

[Jerryl]

We're polling to discover your most successful modifications for a Turbo Regal:

Great thread!
Best bang for the $ based on which goal? :smile:
IC or HA?

 

[Lee_Burough]

Great thread!
Best bang for the $ based on which goal? :smile:
IC or HA?

The goal is a quicker ET. You caught me in a clear case of prejudice....:redface:....I was thinking Intercooled, and I added that caveat. Thanks for pointing that out

Notes in your posts about necessary suspension modifications would be helpful to new owners too.

 

[Adam Connell]

Definately a toss up between an ALKY and tires... neither of wich I have right now...

For the a track only car/weekend warrior car I would say slicks/Drs. For a street machine and overall kick in the pants I would say Alky. Both mods are just ways to make the best of what you already have...

 

[KevinB]

Slicks...... .5 seconds for $300

 

[Turbo1dr]

Slicks and a orange stripe 3000 stall converter gave my car .7 tenths. From 8.70's to 8.00's in the 8th.

 

[blackstallion]

I wouls say alky but the slicks/drag radials is a close second.But alky mod can't be beat it has pushed the stock setup to higher levels.It adds fuel,cools tremendously,reduces detonation big time,cleans your valves throttle body intake.

 

[SouthernCal GN]

I wouls say alky but the slicks/drag radials is a close second.But alky mod can't be beat it has pushed the stock setup to higher levels.It adds fuel,cools tremendously,reduces detonation big time,cleans your valves throttle body intake.

Choose 2

so, you get them both!

 

[forcefed3.8's]

All the power from the alky is useless without good tires. I say slicks with a tankfull of 110 is the biggest bang for the buck. Alky is nice, but you will pretty much get the same results from racing fuel, without the upfront cost. Now in the long run, alky will pay for itself.

 

[T-CHRGD]

I've had my car forever, so it's old school. No alky (Yet!), and it's set up for road racing, so no slicks or drag radials. But the only things I've done to it that have come close to putting the same smile on my face that I had the first time I drove the car are: For Go - High stall torque convertor. Absolutely brought the car from "Fast" to "Screamer !" and for Whoa - Baer four wheel disc brakes. Feels as good stopping as it does going.

 

[Blown&Injected]

I did to much at once to point a finger but would have to say turbo-injectors.

Now the body bushings made a mega difference in the car.

But over all, I would have to say:
THIS SITE!

Can't say Thank You enough.

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

I picked slicks and intercooler because:

Methanol kits work great, they allow our cars to run as good as they do ALL the time.

But this is a best bang for the buck poll, and a tank of racegas tuned is cheaper than a methanol kit.

Racegas and a used pair of slicks will be right about 100.00 for fuel and 50.00 - 150.00 for a used pair of slicks
Used PTE / ATR / CAS / Kenne Bell ect can range between 200.0 - 500.00

Those coupled with a racechip to get the car to burn off the high octane fuel will net some good times.

Actually, i paid 50.00 for my slicks and the intercooler runs right at 250.00 for the car in my sig. But it also has a downpipe, and pretty much most of the items listed in the poll.

It never ends with these cars!
BW

 

[turbo39151]

I see a lot of "racers" opinions. Which "no offense to the racers or the people posting on this poll", but it sounds like some people I know who's idea of "tuning" a turbo car is to slap on a giant FMIC and crank up the boost till something breaks. I understand the need for good slicks for traction but how will you break the tires loose if you haven't even done the basics?

It's all fine and good to race your ride but what about plain old reliability? I only say this from that standpoint that these are 20 year old cars and the majority of us are no the original owners. I'm simply not comfortable with not doing the basics first.

While not as glamorous, I'd think that $40 for new valve springs and about $300 or so for a set of used injectors (low mile, and slightly larger ie: 50lb) a TT chip is really the safest way to start. I'd probaby throw a double roller timing chain in the mix as well only from the reliability standpoint. And finally Alky. (I know it's supposed to only be 2 things...)

My thinking is that if you build a strong foundation, then all of the other "power adders" will work better and you'll be less likely to break something.

If this poll is simply for power and speed and forget about reliability, I'd go with a giant turbo cranked up to 30lbs and alky.

 

[XLR8]

It is all about a well matched combo, but valve springs are cheap and let your car rev over 4500 rpm and slicks (or drag radials) are worth at least .5 seconds in the 1/4. $50 for valve spings and my car finally pulled so I didn't have to ease up on the gas to get the 1 -2 shift.

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

I see a lot of "racers" opinions. Which "no offense to the racers or the people posting on this poll", but it sounds like some people I know who's idea of "tuning" a turbo car is to slap on a giant FMIC and crank up the boost till something breaks. I understand the need for good slicks for traction but how will you break the tires loose if you haven't even done the basics?

It's all fine and good to race your ride but what about plain old reliability? I only say this from that standpoint that these are 20 year old cars and the majority of us are no the original owners. I'm simply not comfortable with not doing the basics first.

While not as glamorous, I'd think that $40 for new valve springs and about $300 or so for a set of used injectors (low mile, and slightly larger ie: 50lb) a TT chip is really the safest way to start. I'd probaby throw a double roller timing chain in the mix as well only from the reliability standpoint. And finally Alky. (I know it's supposed to only be 2 things...)

My thinking is that if you build a strong foundation, then all of the other "power adders" will work better and you'll be less likely to break something.

If this poll is simply for power and speed and forget about reliability, I'd go with a giant turbo cranked up to 30lbs and alky.

This was supposed to be friendly, why are you pointing fingers at people who get it done a certain way? aka "racers"

I think you need to reread you post and think about it for a bit.
Alot of folks just might get a little testy by reading what you just posted.

I for one disagree with most of what you said in the post, and im keeping it at that.

And the fact that Lee posted the basic mods should be done were listed in the first post!@!!@#!@!@

BW

 

[Quiky One]

I think alky injection is the best mod yet. Bryan has made some very valid points, but to me alky made my car driveable. Around here the best gas they have is 91. Before I could only make 10 pounds of boost. Now I can make 22 safely and would make more if my stinking car would. That's another story...

When you get to a certain point, each car will benefit from a different part more or less. Say a racer who drives 500 miles year has traction issues. Well alcohol really wont be favorable to them as racegas isnt really an issue. In this case, tires provide the best improvement. There is no one best bang for your bug mod.

Jason

 

[Welby]

Just do them all. You know you want to and will eventually anyways

Basing on my first time to a track (In my sig), I'd have to say tires would be the biggest bang for the buck, lol....

 

[UNDER-PRESSURE]

I chose Alky injection in this poll as the next step after the listed mods. My thoughts were that at this mild level the car will already be in need of high octane or Alky to take advantage of higher boost levels available. Installing Alky at this point will help prevent KR, lower inlet temperatures & allow the car to be tuned & enjoyed on pump gas.
Gone are the days of setting the car up for track use on 1 octane level & driving the car on the street with much less hp available due to octane. Put alky on it, set it up, tune it & enjoy your car. Save the race gas for Racing cars & put Alky on your boosted street car..... or bike..... or diesel truck.