:biggrin:
boost flutter at wot along with sputtering
- Thread starter QUIP'6'
- Start date
:biggrin:
Have you fiddled with the cam sensor at all ?
Mine took a bit of tweaking to make the car run right... I set it exactly to factory specs and the car ran like crap... I had to turn it counter-clockwise a few degrees from stock (advanced it) ... and the car just came to life.
I think cam sensor "tweaking" is essential when running an aftermarket cam with more duration. The intake valves will open sooner, therefore the cam sensor should be adjusted (advanced) accordingly.
If I were you, I'd take a look at it... It's about the only thing you haven't tried yet right ?
Mine took a bit of tweaking to make the car run right... I set it exactly to factory specs and the car ran like crap... I had to turn it counter-clockwise a few degrees from stock (advanced it) ... and the car just came to life.
I think cam sensor "tweaking" is essential when running an aftermarket cam with more duration. The intake valves will open sooner, therefore the cam sensor should be adjusted (advanced) accordingly.
If I were you, I'd take a look at it... It's about the only thing you haven't tried yet right ?
Eric Stage I
TurboTweak Guy
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Looks way rich.
i know it is and i have the alky on 5. is it rich because it is loading up. when i look at the ecm afr it is showing 8 to 9.0. if i let up on the gas to 3/4 pedal it quits sputtering and pulls hard
A couple things I see in the 3rd run log:
1.) All the knock throughout the run? Maybe throw in some VP C16 for "test" purpose?
2.) The drop in o2 values at the beginning of the run? Along with the drop in spark advance at the same time? Along with the knock at the same time? But TPS, MAF, LV8, RPM, IPW, IDC are still rising or maxed out?
3.) 0.5v drop in battery voltage when w.o.t.? Battery, alternator, grounds, volt booster?
First thing I would do is get rid of the knock completely!!! I don't see the MAF or boost drop like it did in the previous logs you posted...
K.
1.) All the knock throughout the run? Maybe throw in some VP C16 for "test" purpose?
2.) The drop in o2 values at the beginning of the run? Along with the drop in spark advance at the same time? Along with the knock at the same time? But TPS, MAF, LV8, RPM, IPW, IDC are still rising or maxed out?
3.) 0.5v drop in battery voltage when w.o.t.? Battery, alternator, grounds, volt booster?
First thing I would do is get rid of the knock completely!!! I don't see the MAF or boost drop like it did in the previous logs you posted...
K.
as far as knock i think it is false because i am rick at that point. and the battery drop i dont know why i have good grounds and alternator and no volt booster because they are junk. they ruined my previous alt. what would cause the drop in spark advance?
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
NCTURBOS I don't know how you can say that. Are you looking at something different? This log clearly shows boost, rpm and injector duty cycle drop and flatline right when third hits. Then maf signal starts going nuts.
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Brian, have you tried another ECM yet?
Brian, have you tried another ECM yet?
NCTURBOS I don't know how you can say that. Are you looking at something different? This log clearly shows boost, rpm and injector duty cycle drop and flatline right when third hits. Then maf signal starts going nuts.
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Brian, have you tried another ECM yet?
You're looking at the old "run-2" graph, not the newer "run-3" graph.
K.
yes i have!!!!! by the way i am so sorry i put on an old log file "roman run 2" is my first run.NCTURBOS I don't know how you can say that. Are you looking at something different? This log clearly shows boost, rpm and injector duty cycle drop and flatline right when third hits. Then maf signal starts going nuts.
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Brian, have you tried another ECM yet?
nice pick up!!! sorry for the confusion. how do you post the pictures of the file
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
My bad, I see now.
Here is a thought. Looking at the file, it looks like the tps might have something to do with it. It's not dropping out or anything but it appears that the harder you press the pedal the worse things get. Try adjusting the tps so it does not go above 4.50 at WOT.
TurboBuick .com is not very user friendly on uploading images and files. Very limited to size. The only way I know is to use a image host like imageshack .us
Here is a thought. Looking at the file, it looks like the tps might have something to do with it. It's not dropping out or anything but it appears that the harder you press the pedal the worse things get. Try adjusting the tps so it does not go above 4.50 at WOT.
TurboBuick .com is not very user friendly on uploading images and files. Very limited to size. The only way I know is to use a image host like imageshack .us
i always had my tps there with no problems but i can try it. i also need to try moving my cam sensor. i just dont understad why my car run perfect idle to 3/4 pedal wuth no issues until i go wot but in third i can get it to pull hard and clean up to 120mph then i let off
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
Thats what I'm saying, at this point it seems throttle related and the only thing attached to that gas pedal is the throttle plate and the tps. Got to be something funky with one of the two. I don't know why the hell tps voltage would make any difference either but you have nothing to loose at this point. No?
Eric Stage I, what is the lowest tps that would be acceptable and what's your thoughts on this?
Eric Stage I, what is the lowest tps that would be acceptable and what's your thoughts on this?
Eric Stage I
TurboTweak Guy
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Really anything down to around 3.20's on TPS volts should be ok (the fueling is the same above that), but I would make a recording of the 3/4 throttle thing and maybe we can see what's different.
ok thanks i will do a 3/4 pedal thru all gears and do a full pedal run after that and post log files
I'm doubting that it's false knock, and I wouldn't dismiss it as without knowing for sure... You're losing that 0.5v @ wot, and gaining it back as soon as you let back off the throttle, there has to be a reason, find out why... Let's see if the next log shows similar issues to what happens at the 27.7 sec. mark on this log.
K.
voltage drop
well i didnt see that before but now it is popping at lower rpms even when i spool it up. and i checked the logger for volts and it is showing 12.9, 12.8 at hot idle and mid to low 12's at wot. if i try my lights or windows it drops to 11 ish. this is a 2 yr old alternator. well then i check the post behind the alternator and it shows 14.00 but the little brown wire shows 12.8 what gives? can this be my popping at higher rpms since it was dropping way down and didnt see it but now the volts are showing worse at lower rpm's
well i didnt see that before but now it is popping at lower rpms even when i spool it up. and i checked the logger for volts and it is showing 12.9, 12.8 at hot idle and mid to low 12's at wot. if i try my lights or windows it drops to 11 ish. this is a 2 yr old alternator. well then i check the post behind the alternator and it shows 14.00 but the little brown wire shows 12.8 what gives? can this be my popping at higher rpms since it was dropping way down and didnt see it but now the volts are showing worse at lower rpm's
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
So........ did you figure it out? Did you get some 3/4 throttle recordings?
no i havent but i got a powerlogger file you can see the tps is 4.70 and the boost and rpm's are dropping off. do you think i have an injector problem. they are msd 50's are they locking
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
I really don't think so. Looks more to me like spark or fuel is going away. What plugs are you running?
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