boost flutter at wot along with sputtering

Have you pulled the drivers side valve cover and verified the #3 exhaust push rod is rotating? I also have the same cam as you (204/214) and I was having a problem with high rpm break up, etc. I put my vacuum gauge on it and it wouldn't sit still, then pulled the drivers valve cover and sure enough guess which pushrod is not spinning...
I also cut the filter open and there were some nice metallic particles in there.
Motor is coming out today - time to go roller...ugh
 
Do you think His Translator is interfering with the Alky control? Relay??
 
Its like this, if you change themain three parts.. ecm, MAF, coilpack/ignition module.. and your problem is still there.. your in trouble. If you havent swapped all of those with known working units.. then that is your next step.

Look at your AF on your scanmaster make sure it goes to 255, make sure you didnt set your translator wrong, make sure TPS goes over 4 volts, make sure O2's are in the low 800's when you go WOT, confirm you dont have a BL issue on your scanmaster.. meaning its +-10 from 128 driving, cruising, etc.

You can also try spiking your fuel and run good gas and shut the alky kit off. I had a guy a few years back put ammonia in his tank instead of methanol... he had some drivability issues :eek:

;thanks julio i did change all three main items with no luck. a/f does go to 255 at 15 psi and the tps goes to 4.75 at wot. 02's are 780's and blm's are 124 at idle. and 127 cruising.
 
Have you pulled the drivers side valve cover and verified the #3 exhaust push rod is rotating? I also have the same cam as you (204/214) and I was having a problem with high rpm break up, etc. I put my vacuum gauge on it and it wouldn't sit still, then pulled the drivers valve cover and sure enough guess which pushrod is not spinning...
I also cut the filter open and there were some nice metallic particles in there.
Motor is coming out today - time to go roller...ugh
did not check yet just fretting doing it because i dont feel like changing a cam after i just put heads and intake on and it looked perfect. wondering if new heads have to much pressure on them
Do you think His Translator is interfering with the Alky control? Relay??

never had this problem ran alky for years. does it with it off. thanks
 
well i got my chip back from eric and he did a beautiful job as always idles way better thatn before but it is still doing the same thing. i get to full boost and it sputters and holds back like it is losing power. this is at 24 psi a blip of knock it will shift then when the rpms are at 4800 it lays down and sputters again. i am at a loss here the only options left are camshaft and headgasket. i tried a new module and coil pack, crank sensor, actuator and turbo, plugs and plug gap. numbers on scanmaster are perfect or almost perfect. 3/4 pedal it is fine.


Have you performed a boost leak test. This is where you put air pressure on a non-running engine and see where air leaks are at. Next would be compression and leakdown.

You either have a mechanical problem or electrical problem. Swapping out the electronics didnt solve it, so its starts pointing the finger at mechanical. You can test by dong leakdown.
 
took it out to a car show today and it is running worse down on power. and it i sputtering at part throttle now like 1/2 pedal and low boost. my oil pressure is 12 psi hot used to be 25 and the temperature is running 220. no antifreeze in oil but when i rev it i get a lot of bubbles in radiator with the cap off. maybe hot gases are getting in coolant and making it run hot. on the highway it runs 190. but traffic it 220 to 230 brand new radiator and it never did this before either. blown headgasket maybe. going to pull the heads and check lifters to. i doo have a ticking on the driverside head
 
Likely blown headgasket now--from serious pounding on it "in-the-dark"...

I was headed for Turbo Surge earlier--but now think your HG(s) are toast...
 
oil pressure

your oil pressure is going to be low with the engine that hot...i would worry too much about that as long as there is no coolant in the oil...you need to do a leak down test before you tear it down that way you have it narrowed down to a cylinder if it is a mechanical problem. small cracks are hard to find if you don't have it narrowed down to a cylinder.hopefully it's not a crack and just gaskets....best of luck...give me a shout......Bob
 
your oil pressure is going to be low with the engine that hot...i would worry too much about that as long as there is no coolant in the oil...you need to do a leak down test before you tear it down that way you have it narrowed down to a cylinder if it is a mechanical problem. small cracks are hard to find if you don't have it narrowed down to a cylinder.hopefully it's not a crack and just gaskets....best of luck...give me a shout......Bob

thanks bob. hey i lost your number it was in my old phone and i lost it. pm me it if you like
 
Thats where I was going.. but stopped in my tracks :cool:

Have you performed a boost leak test. This is where you put air pressure on a non-running engine and see where air leaks are at. Next would be compression and leakdown.
will try it
You either have a mechanical problem or electrical problem. Swapping out the electronics didnt solve it, so its starts pointing the finger at mechanical. You can test by dong leakdown.

Likely blown headgasket now--from serious pounding on it "in-the-dark"...

I was headed for Turbo Surge earlier--but now think your HG(s) are toast...

only way to test when i exhausted all causes
 
You running a cat or a test pipe?

The reason I ask is, I just reinstalled my cat getting ready for smog and I noticed the power kinda falls off in the upper RPM now. Doesn't sputter or anything....just feels like it runs into a wall a little. This is at 20lbs of boost. I also recall that my old original cat when it was clogged caused my car to nose over pretty good at WOT and upper RPM at only 16lbs of boost.

Since you've dang near tried everything, and don't have Powerlogger files for these guys to gander at....figured I'd ask about the cat or test pipe thinking that the restriction there if you're running a cat...epsecially an old clogged one....might be a problem.

I had the same thing happen replaced just about everything. it wound up being bad cat. and vac. leak.
I also blew head gasket trying to find the problem. oh yeah and cat was new but i had tried
everything else. now i use the test pipe.
 
well i cut my oil filter open and i found it is caked with graphite. very very little metal. i guess its time to pull the heads



0614091538.jpg
 
Find where it came from first. Check the cam. Check the turbo. Those are the 2 more than likley culprits.
 
head gaskets

ditch those stock gaskets. put some Cometics on but work slowly and get your tune straight........Bob
 
Find where it came from first. Check the cam. Check the turbo. Those are the 2 more than likley culprits.
brand new turbo. could have been from old turbo. took motor apart and checked all lifters and they are flat with circle marks in them from spinning so it is good. had graphite on the intake valley gasket. didnt get to the heads yet

ditch those stock gaskets. put some Cometics on but work slowly and get your tune straight........Bob
 
here are the headgaskets they are blown but i dont think this would cause my problem. do you guy think so. when i took my bolts off they came undone very very easy no real effort.
plus my car was running hot

0616091820b.jpg

top of driverside.
0616091820a.jpg

bottom of passengerside.
0616091820_01.jpg

top of passengerside.
 
If you are using head bolts,I would use studs next time. IMO nothing wrong with going back with stock gaskets again.
 
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