Boost/Vac gauge install

viokrome

Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2011
Does any body have a picture of where they tapped into the map vac line or vapor canister for a boost gauge install. I really want to tap into the vapor canister line but my "T" adapter is 1/4" and the vapor canister line is 7/32".
 
Instead of tapping into the vacuum canister line route it to the passenger side and tap into the hard plastic line running to the MAP sensor.
 
I temporarily hooked mine up to the map line. I removed the hard map line from the metal fitting so I did not have to cut it. I then hooked one end of a t to the metal line. The other side was hooked up to the end of the map line and the boost gauge line was hooked up to the bottom of the t. This way nothing was cut.

I think I'm going to hook up the boost gauge to the charcoal cannister this weekend.
 
I hooked my gauge up to the charcoal cannister and it seems to not be getting a reading?
 
That's because there's a check valve between the cannister and the engine that keeps boost out. On the up side, your check valve is working :)


Unplug the hard MAP line from the metal line. Get a tee and a short piece of vacuum line. Put the short hose on the metal line and plug up the tee. The other two legs will go to the hard plastic line and your boost line. Make sure to superglue or zip tie all connections.
 
That's because there's a check valve between the cannister and the engine that keeps boost out. On the up side, your check valve is working :)


Unplug the hard MAP line from the metal line. Get a tee and a short piece of vacuum line. Put the short hose on the metal line and plug up the tee. The other two legs will go to the hard plastic line and your boost line. Make sure to superglue or zip tie all connections.

Where's the check valve, I feel like a vacuum line goes from throttle body area to a metal vacuum line bolted to the engine and then goes to rubber to the cannister?

I'm worried about using the map for vacuum, I can't seem to find any pictures.
 
There are two check valves under the hood. They are designed to keep boost out of the vacuum driven componets like the EGR, Charcoal cannister, cruise control, and HVAC controls.

The MAP line has access to manifold pressure.
 
Here is a picture of the Boost brass "T" fitting inline with the digital dash hobbs switch vacuum line, and don't forget to use tie-wrap at each hose connection.
 

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I feel like i cant really tell what I'm looking at in that picture? Is it that barn shaped dog long dog house thing with the hard plastic lines that are ran near the cowl of the hood?
 
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I moved it off the char coal cannister and it still doesn't work, I'm guessing where its located now is a bad spot still?

Man I suck.
 
First, do you any vacuum reading?
If so how much?
Are you using a brand new boost/vac gauge?
I wasn't sure if my boost/vac gauge was working accurately, so I remove the boost hose from the brass "T" attached it to the air compressor line. Adjusted the output regulator to 15lbs to see if the boost/vac gauge was reading. Comes to found out my boost/vac gauge is off by 3psi., and the vac reading is 18psi. If you have access to a air compressor you might want to see how accurate your boost gauge is. I think the next gauge is going to be an mechanical boost/vac gauge.
 
The stupid vdo boost gauge doesn't show vacuum so I don't know seems like it doesn't work at all.


It was a used gauge I bought just a week ago on this forum so I hope the seller didnt sell me a broken gauge!
 
If you have access to an air compressor then do what I said on my last thread just to make sure your boost gauge is working.
 
If you have access to an air compressor then do what I said on my last thread just to make sure your boost gauge is working.
I tested it with my nitrogen tank, the needle moves. But what should I connect it to to get it to work?
 
It looks like you've tapped the low pressure side of a hotair motor. You need to find a port somewhere off of the manifold or at least after the exit of the turbo.
 
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