C-Clip Eliminators

[86 TR]

How hard is it to install c-clip eliminators on my car. I would like to do this for safety reasons and install stronger axles..

I've seen what happens when the stock c-clip lets go.

 

[norbs]

Most of them leak within a few thousand miles as they use ball bearings which can't take side loads, and get loose and take out the seals.The only thing you can do is get the ones for strange axles that are designed for street and oval track with taperd roller bearings. But you must get the strange axles they will not work with anything else.
All you have to do is punch out the existing bearings and cut the housing ends off a bit with a grinder or sawzall. The clip bearings and locking collar have to be pressed on the axles in a press though.

 

[gnxtc2]

Or

Take the axle out and bring it to an axle guy and have Ford ends put on.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

[norbs]

Moser has 12 bolt ends that you can weld on. Then you need to buy 70-81 chevelle backing plates and brake wheel cylinders and parts and be able to reuse your drums. This will cost you roughly $230, allowing you to use ceramic rear shoes from praise dynobrake for better stopping, and your wheel cylinders won't fall out like the factory buick style. The ford brakes are 11" and are alot heavier and will cost you roughly $300.

 

[SGRIM]

It is all in who installs them. We went to the disk brake setup to eliminate the imminent leaking problem!

 

[norbs]

I think this would be the way to go $489 and leave your brakes alone.

 

[ttypewhite]

I have a Eaton carrier, Moser axles with C-clip elimunators. With a good rear end guy you should have no problems with leaks. I used Mike at Transware and he guarrantees it won't leak, or he will fix it. So far it will be going on 2 years and no drips or leaks.

 

[Sam Colalillo]

Took the axle to MOSER, and had them weld on housing ends that would except the pre 80's backing plates.

 

[norbs]

I bet you had to grind the holes in the backing plates to 3 1/8" diameter, and while your there what year brake shoes are you going to put on the backing plates?

 

[Sam Colalillo]

Yes, you are correct the center holes in the backing plates had to be opened up. This had to be done so the axle bearings would fit through the backing plates when installing them into the housing. I am using the Backing plates off of a 70 chevelle.

The Bendix part number for the shoes is 245, all of the hardware (springs, wheel cylinders) is for the Chevelle also. (I like the 70 chevelle bolt into place wheel cylinders beter than the stock 80's GM that are held in place with a snap ring). The hole in the center of the stock brake drums had to be opened up to 2.800 in order to fit over the center of the Moser 33 spline axles.

 

[norbs]

I need a favor, can you measure the distance from outside to outside of each bearing flange surface. The rear you have there is stock width? I thought the shoes were part number 242, becuase that is what i ordered for mine.


thanks norb

 

[J Banning]

I just did Moser 33 spline c-clip eliminators on my 10 bolt.

It ended up being a LOT more work than I imagined. If I had to do it again, on a lift, I'd still plan on it being a solid 6-8hr job.

 

[Sam Colalillo]

No, it is part number 245 (9.5 x 2 brake shoes). The stock backing plates accept part number 514 (9.5 x 2 brake shoes). I have the measurement wrote down some where, if I can find it I will pm you the measurement. Moser had the distance on file. The measurement they had on file for what the oem length is, was the same measurement I came up with.

 

[norbs]

Thanks those numbers are correct. The 242 number was from a different manufacture. Also one thing to note you can also get the wheel cylinders in 7/8" and even 15/16" diameter for the 70-81 backing plates. I was worried about lockup so i stuck with the standard one which is 7/8".


Please note that Ball bearing Moser or similar c-clip eliminators are not designed for cornering loads and will wear out quick on a "daily" driver on a weekend car it would last you alot longer. This is why i suggested the strange ones or go to the ford 12-bolt ends with huge bearings as you have.
The leaks are usually caused by bearing wear increasing the strain on the seals until they fail. If the install is poor, they would probably leak right away.

 

[Hot Air]

Check out the current issue of GM High Tech magazine. Jack Cotton installs the c-clip eliminator...good pictures...great article.
Conrad

 

[outlaw7d9]

u need 2 cut the sides of the housing flange and leave a 3/16 step for the eliminator 2 sit on

 

[norbs]

Yes you need to cut the housing, so you can't put it back to stock.

 

[pacecarta]

actually the elim doesnt rest on the 1/4" (measured from the flange) that you leave , if the brearing portion does contact the part sticking out (if you left it too long) the elim will not last long , the bore size of the recess in the elim housing is larger than the axle tube and youll notice it can float side to side a little

your options after the failure of the moser eliminator on moser perf axles is to

replace the eliminator (they only sell as a pair at just over 150 bucks, but youll have a spare for when the other one goes ). i can tell you when they do leak they are a pain to get off , easy way is cut the outer shell off then cut the bearing outer hub off then cut a deep groove i the race (dont hit the axle ) and then split it with a chisel . alternative would be send it to moser and let them fix it

replace the axles and elims for better design eliminators as mentioned above (330 for the pair of axles and 170 i think for the strange elims )

or go for the ford style (GM) ends

 

[m6z]

Do the c-clip eliminators change the overall length of the rearend? (axle flange to axleflange)

 

[pacecarta]

Do the c-clip eliminators change the overall length of the rearend? (axle flange to axleflange)

No, if they did the drum brakes wouldnt work properly