car runs hot after tranny rebuild

My car is doing the same thing running at a high temp I have a similar set-up FMIC, rebuilt tranny new converter, big trans-cooler fan is working fine but temp gets up around 190-200 while driving you would think it would run cooler than that but not so any suggestions would be help-ful:cool: :cool:
 
Chris at CK did the install also,he flushed the trans cooler and lines.Chris said the converter was fine,if it wasn't I had no problem with Chris putting in a new one.The trans before the rebuild was over revving between 1-2 shifts at WOT.I'm sure Chris did a fine job on my trans.I'm just trying to get different ideas on why the car is running hot.Chris and I spoke about a month ago and if I keep the car Chris will get her running good again.Like Nick said, Chris knows a lot about buicks than just trannys.

Agreed!
 
I assume a new convertor was used along with the new trans build. How much room between the flex plate and the converter. I am assuming that you put the trans in and not chris(you did not include this info). If you do not remember having to pull the converter forward to bolt it to flex plate, then check your crankshaft end play. Just want to make sure of two things, the converter was seated into trans all the way and that the converter was not to big (ie ballooned etc).

Another suggestion is to get your hands on a digital thermometer. After driving around and getting things up to operating temp, stop the car. Open the hood and see what the temp is for coolant hoses and for tranny lines. see if you can tell where the extra heat is acoming from. This may tell you if it is the tranny or the engine.

Were any other changes made to the car at all?

How bad did the last trans destruct? Did you flush the tranny cooler or have it replaced?
Hey Matt,how much $ are those digital thermometers, I've seen them for ac ducts or car ac ducts, is that what you mean or is it something more expensive?Brands or model #'s,thanx! Also one thing I like about Chris at CK is he will try to help people on this site without steering them to his shop,and telling them bring it over and I will check it out.
 
Hey Matt,how much $ are those digital thermometers, I've seen them for ac ducts or car ac ducts, is that what you mean or is it something more expensive?Brands or model #'s,thanx! Also one thing I like about Chris at CK is he will try to help people on this site without steering them to his shop,and telling them bring it over and I will check it out.



Raytek MT4U - Raytek Infrared Thermometers - JEGS

They seem to be near $90-$100. Good investment.
 
Oh crap,I just ordered one right after Matt gave me the brand and model#,thanx anyway,I'll call you later.
 
Can someone explain the difference and the functions of the coolant temp switch and the fan temp switch and how can I tell if they are working properly,also I get 195 degrees on my water temp gauge and 200 on my scan master, so what I am saying is my sending unit and my gauge are probably working fine. is this correct? thanx in advance.
 
How old/miles is the h2o pump?

Can someone explain the difference and the functions of the coolant temp switch and the fan temp switch and how can I tell if they are working properly,also I get 195 degrees on my water temp gauge and 200 on my scan master, so what I am saying is my sending unit and my gauge are probably working fine. is this correct? thanx in advance.

First off
What temp is your coolant fan(s) coming on?
 
the water pump might be original,I don't remember changing it,fan turns on at 170,turns off at 162,turns on at 170.
 
Cool sounds like your ecm/sendors/etc and temp to turn on the fan are in order.

Now when you did the check of your core that I suggested in the PM's how did the circulation look when you revved the motor up to high idle?

The coolant should really shoot through the core once the Tstat is open and you rev the engine.

You get the 14 psi knock issue fixed yet?

Was the lack of ability to run normal boost there before the trans rebuild?
 
coolant shooting thru the radiator very good.still have detonation,took her for a spin yesterday,72 degrees,car running 180,eased into the throttle on the highway,15lbs boost got detonation,5.5 degrees,02 was 810,fuel pressure62psi,I eased off the throttle, installed new coil pack and module,fuel filter.iac,plugs, wires,about 2 years ago but only 1000 miles. I can hear the detonation. what does the fan temp sw do?
 
You need the fan on its highest speed if its got a front mount. I have never driven a car with a front mount that had a stock radiator/fans that would stay under 180 in 70 degree or warmer air unless the fan is run at high speed when on. Mine is typically around 170. I have the stock radiator and fan wired to run on high speed. Id consult with your chip burner about the timing and fan speed or bypass the high/low speed feature so the fan runs at high speed. Try adding octane if theres detonation and see if it goes away.
 
I ordered the fan hi/lo/ sw a couple of days ago.also the radiator is a 5 row,thanx,I also ordered a new chip form turbo tweak.my chip was ancient.
 
I installed the caspers hi/lo sw and the car runs a lot cooler with the fan on the hi speed all the time,the other items I ordered(coolant temp sw,hi and lo relays) was a waste of money. I want to thank Turbo Nasty for his pm's to get me on the right track and to explain a few things to to me,thanx bro!!!!!I still have the detonation problem,but 1 thing at a time
 
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