Car surges rapidly when in boost, help please.

VenomGT

That Youtube Guy
Joined
Mar 31, 2014
Gents, I have replaced everything related to the fuel system, ignition and electrical supply.

  • Alternator (Bosch)
  • Battery (Optima)
  • Added grounds and replace old ones and any wire that looked old got replaced.
  • Accufab FP Regulator
  • -8AN fuel line
  • Racetronix 255 fuel pump w/ hotwire
  • 80# injector from FTS
  • Racetronix hotwire for the pump and ignition
  • Modded ECM
  • Tank (Spectra 307)
  • Spark plugs E3, 43s and 42s
  • TR6 ignition and wires
Anyways you name it I have replaced it....but the issue keeps coming back.

When I go into boost it will go lean and begin to surge and the car has no power while this happens.


It all began with what I thought was a bad ECM as it did the rapid flash CEL, bucking under boost and crappy idle to me a couple of times and it continued to occur after replacing/cleaning the chip, then an injector failed (which actually now I know it didn't it was just a bad WB sensor that would peg on rich at idle). So with that I replaced ECM, injectors and injector harness and added the hot-wire, found the feed line was crushed while I was messing under the car so I replaced it with -8AN braided hose since I did all this I figured it was a good idea to replace the fuel pump and tank since it was the original and it was cruddy so replaced all that. Car drove fine for weeks then the bucking in boost started again with no other symptoms it drives like a dream until I give it more than 1/4 throttle, at first I noticed that the volts dropped bellow 12.4 (when in boost) when this happened so I replaced the alternator solved the issue for 2 or 3 weeks and now is back. Since everything is new and quadruple checked even had a buddy look my work over as I am frustrated already and he didn't find anything out of place besides a loose exhaust hanger.


Now today, after sitting at idle for 20 minutes (radiator temp peaked at 189*) with the A/C on the VOLTS light began to flicker when we started to drive again, I figured the alternator overheated so I opened the hood let stuff cool down and the light went away, my only other suspect right now is a bad fuel pump as the pump has a bad check valve and bleeds the pressure immediately after its shut off, I message FTS about it and they said not to worry that it wouldn't affect the life of the pump (I didn't want to drop the tank if I didn't have to so I checked with them if it was fine that way) or maybe "crushed sock syndrome" but intermittently?

Any ideas?
 
If you sourced the alternator from Auto Zone, O'Reilly or another big chain parts house, it might very well be the alternator is bad.

My experience has the odds at about 1 in 5 being rebuilt/assembled incorrectly. It seems there is just no "pride in workmanship" these days. Check it again.
 
Already ordered another because the light came back on, I even went fancy with a bosch unit trying to avoid this. Its just odd.
 
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