Cause of hammered upper bearing on #3.

[KWIKR 1]

I'm going threw a rebuild from hell (it's a long story.This is the most recent problem). This is the second time the engine has been done in less then 500km. This time I got 20 miles out of it before a knock problem occured . The builder and I traced it back to #3 . I pulled #3 piston and rod out , only to find the upper rod bearing hammered .

a) what would cause this to happen in under 20 miles ?

b) What has to be done in order to reinstall everything ?

c) What is the jail sentence for shooting a engine builder ? .

 

[Intercooler]

It may be yourself you need to shoot! Usually it is detonation that hammers the upper. If you check the rod and the end isn't out of round then the finger points squarely at you!

 

[Intercooler]

Here is a nice thread with some pictures of exactly what you speak of in it.


http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=43168&highlight=hyper

 

[KWIKR 1]

no knock in 20 miles of driving . if I told you the whole story you would not be saying knock related . How about dropping your pan and finding a 6" seal retainer spring lying in it . Or how about the builder putting the rocker arm shafts in backwards . Or what about .075 lifter preload .Also wearing out rocker arm retainer buttons in 500km's. This is after I gave him a 3 sheets of paper with all clearences and specs for rebuild and the best of brand new parts . Or excessive worn valve guides in 500 km of driving . Burned exhaust valve in #3 most likely due from not being seat right. There's more .

Your link relates to pistons ?

 

[Intercooler]

Originally posted by KWIKR 1
no knock in 20 miles of driving . if I told you the whole story you would not be saying knock related . How about dropping your pan and finding a 6" seal retainer spring lying in it . Or how about the builder putting the rocker arm shafts in backwards . Or what about .075 lifter preload .Also wearing out rocker arm retainer buttons in 500km's. This is after I gave him a 3 sheets of paper with all clearences and specs for rebuild and the best of brand new parts . Or excessive worn valve guides in 500 km of driving . Burned exhaust valve in #3 most likely due from not being seat right. There's more .

Your link relates to pistons ?

What kind of spring? Wasn't aware the shafts could go on backwards. I had .125" preload at one time and made it through ok. Never heard of worn retainer buttons. The link is related to pistons but one picture has the shows the upper rod bearing to the failed piston and you can clearly see where it has been hammered. I don't think these problems caused your bearing issue. Sounds more like detonation to me if it isn't out of round.

 

[KWIKR 1]

Those are a few of the problems I've been dealing with . I know they are not related to bearing failure. Well the bearings are worn right down to copper . The top one has about just over a hair thickness of copper . coming out from the side on the top of bearing .Would you call that hammered or just well worn ?? The SP shafts can be put in backwards . The middle bolt will go in with a little work . The spring looks like it's from the front seal .

 

[FJM568]

If your knock sensor isn't torqued down tight enough, it won't be as sensitive, and won't register any knock...Also check to make sure that the knock sensor circuit is plugged in and working...

 

[KWIKR 1]

Knock sensor was torqued down to 14 ft/lbs and pluged in .

 

[TR Custom Parts]

Sounds like you need a new engine builder. Was the motor prelubed before you started it for the first time? I assume you have a knock detector or scantool to monitor for knock?

 

[Wes]

it could have very well been the power plate lol jk

 

[KendallF]

You say the bearing was "hammered"...was it loose in the rod showing evidence of improper bearing crush, was it worn to copper, was the rod properly torqued when you removed it...? If the damage was isolated to that rod bearing, I would look at improper sizing/concentricity, or bolts improperly installed or torqued.

Good luck!

 

[KEVINS]

Check the piston to deck height and make sure that the piston can not hit the head. Sounds dumb, but when a buddy and me tore down his motor we saw marks in the aluminum heads where a few of the pistons were hitting..

ks

 

[Jimn8or]

How did it run for those 20 miles? Was it fairly rough? Did it seem to shake at idle far more than it did before the rebuild? Is there any chance the builder 'fixed' the camgear to cam, bolt hole alignment 'problem'? That fact that it is number 3 leads me to think that perhaps there is an installation position problem with the cam [due to order of cam cycle events], resulting in valve to piston clearance problems. The fact that you have a burnt valve supports this thought as the valve would not be retracting out of the way enough, in time, to permit the safe passage of a complete piston stroke/cycle w/o conflict [hammering]. Your abused guides and buttons would also be the result of this. W/o being there it is realy hard to trouble shoot. Did you bring him your engine in pieces or complete? Is there any chance that he got one of your rods mixed up with another customers? Too long a rod will give all of these results, with a correctly installed cam! Good Luck with your dillemma here Kwikr !
Jim

 

[KWIKR 1]

Hey guys .

- Motor was prelube before start up .

- yes have scan tool to monitor knock .

- bearing fell out when rod was taken off of crank , and was worn down to copper .

- Rod was torqued to ARP specs .

- it ran smooth as silk for the first 20 mins before knock started and felt very good

Jimn8or . what is the "camgear to cam bolt hole alignment problem" ? Is this a problem associated with the roller cam setup ? Thanks.