theres no way in hell im paying a buick dealer 250+ to do this, so i figured id tackle it myself this weekend. do i have to remove the coil spring, or just the upper ball joint? it seems pretty straightforward i was just told to keep the shims in line when i put it back together and get an alignment immediately. for whoever has done this, how hard is it to remove the bolts on the CA>? its a stock car with over 100k on it, so are they tourqued really high, or will they come off with a decent size breaker bar or air tools? if anyone has any tips, id appreciate it. a complete procedure would be even better!
changing front upper CA bushings...
- Thread starter 87gninpa
- Start date
Try posting in the suspension forum for a better response.
If you are just doing the uppers, the spring stays in place. Support the car on the lower arm to get the upper arm off its snubber. Crack the ball joint from the spindle and remove the two shaft nuts. They are tight but not ridiculous and they use crushed threads to make them stay tight so you have to fight them all the way off. On mine the bolts spun in the frame so I had to lift the arm up to put a socket on the bolt head. Do not spin the bolt, it will wreck the knurling designed to keep it still.
I built my own press to do the bushing swaps, without one it is a challenge, make sure you do not bend the ears on the arms.
If you are just doing the uppers, the spring stays in place. Support the car on the lower arm to get the upper arm off its snubber. Crack the ball joint from the spindle and remove the two shaft nuts. They are tight but not ridiculous and they use crushed threads to make them stay tight so you have to fight them all the way off. On mine the bolts spun in the frame so I had to lift the arm up to put a socket on the bolt head. Do not spin the bolt, it will wreck the knurling designed to keep it still.
I built my own press to do the bushing swaps, without one it is a challenge, make sure you do not bend the ears on the arms.
John Larkin
Sublime Master of Turbology
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Drill holes in the rubber bushing every 1/4" around once the arm is out. Drill all the way through. Lube it extensively with penetrating oil. Then knock the center sleeve out and finally push the rubber out. After this, it's only a matter of crushing the outer shell to remove it. This is the least frustrating way to remove them, trust me. If they fight you at all, do this.
Air Tools?
I have found it much easier to install the control arm bushings with the control arm in the car. Jack up and support the lower control arm with a jackstand. Remove the wheel. Remove the nut and washer on the outside of the bushing. Using an air hammer and long chisle tip drive the bushing out of the control arm by hammering on the lip of the bushing. Once the bushing is removed, reinstall the new bushing using some white lithium grease on the outside of the bushing. You will be able to push the bushing in far enough to install the washer and the nut. Tighten up the nut until you see the control arm flex. Take your air hammer and push the arm onto the bushing by hammering on the inside of the control arm around the bushing. Tighten and hammer until the bushing is fully seated in the arm. Do one bushing at a time and you will not have any problems. This is how the dealer will do it and it only takes 30 minutes a bushing. I perfer this method to fighting with the control arm bolts and remembering where all the shims go. Don't forget the alignment after your done.
I have found it much easier to install the control arm bushings with the control arm in the car. Jack up and support the lower control arm with a jackstand. Remove the wheel. Remove the nut and washer on the outside of the bushing. Using an air hammer and long chisle tip drive the bushing out of the control arm by hammering on the lip of the bushing. Once the bushing is removed, reinstall the new bushing using some white lithium grease on the outside of the bushing. You will be able to push the bushing in far enough to install the washer and the nut. Tighten up the nut until you see the control arm flex. Take your air hammer and push the arm onto the bushing by hammering on the inside of the control arm around the bushing. Tighten and hammer until the bushing is fully seated in the arm. Do one bushing at a time and you will not have any problems. This is how the dealer will do it and it only takes 30 minutes a bushing. I perfer this method to fighting with the control arm bolts and remembering where all the shims go. Don't forget the alignment after your done.
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2001
Re: Air Tools?
WHA? 30 minutes per bushing? Holy carp.
If you have the OEM rubber in there:
Pull the arms, don't lose the shim packs.
Get a propane torch and set the rubber on fire, let it burn. It'll melt and smoke and make a big stink, but most importantly, it'll release itself from the bushing shells. Push the rubber and the inner sleeve out, then gently hammer the outer sleeves out.
Tap or press the new bushings in, re-install in car.
WHA? 30 minutes per bushing? Holy carp.
If you have the OEM rubber in there:
Pull the arms, don't lose the shim packs.
Get a propane torch and set the rubber on fire, let it burn. It'll melt and smoke and make a big stink, but most importantly, it'll release itself from the bushing shells. Push the rubber and the inner sleeve out, then gently hammer the outer sleeves out.
Tap or press the new bushings in, re-install in car.
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