Coolant reservoir filling up

[Jeff Rand]

I use the smaller overflow unit from alkycontrol.

Recently I've noticed that the more back to back runs I make, the more the little reservoir fills up. Even popped its top once.

It's never done this before. Any ideas on what would cause this? Temps when driving around are 178-182 and when racing cane range from 190-200.

I was about to install my alky system in a stock GN and I thought I read in the instructions not to put any water in the reservoir that they provide. It will not however solve your problem if the head is lifting.
Jeff

 

[Just a Six??]

i also want to know where to purchase tablets...

I always get them from the dealer. Havent seen them in the parts stores up here? make sure you Crush them up before putting them in the rad. Throw a few in a baggie & crush them & your good to go.

 

[Just a Six??]

Nick, I'm curious what head gaskets you trust @ 30psi on an 8-bolt setup ?

I'm told by my machinist to use Cometics, but every damn post I read on the board here has something to say about them leaking.

I just pulled a set of leaking RJC's off my motor, but I believe they were the older/discontinued thicker ones.

I don't know which ones to go with anymore...

I like the Victors. I ran 27-28 lbs all season without any issues. I will add I only did about 20-25 passes all season so maybe that doesnt count? I use studs & steel heads.

 

[novaderrik]

get a stock overflow tank and fill it to the "cold" line when cold, and see where it winds up when it's hot and kind of keep track of it over time. there is a reason they used as big of a reservoir as they did when they built the car..
if you think you are lifting a head, then check the coolant for any signs of combustion gasses.

 

[yullose]

~snip

Somehow... that's exactly what I thought you would say...

Maybe I just won't lean on this thing that hard then.

 

[bison]

Somehow... that's exactly what I thought you would say...

Maybe I just won't lean on this thing that hard then.

Copper gaskets will work but will seep everywhere. Ive done it before. You will take out the block before the gaskets. The real answer is a stage 2

 

[yullose]

Copper gaskets will work but will seep everywhere. Ive done it before. You will take out the block before the gaskets. The real answer is a stage 2

I hate to get that much money into a block... but the more I think about it... it's still probably cheaper than converting it over to a turbo SBC.

Which stage block would I need to look for if I wanted to swap my 109 rotating assy over ?

I guess there's no way to drill/tap holes in a 109 block for the 14 bolt heads huh ?

Sorry for the thread hijack. lol

 

[bison]

I hate to get that much money into a block... but the more I think about it... it's still probably cheaper than converting it over to a turbo SBC.

Which stage block would I need to look for if I wanted to swap my 109 rotating assy over ?

I guess there's no way to drill/tap holes in a 109 block for the 14 bolt heads huh ?

Sorry for the thread hijack. lol

You would need an off center block stage 2 unless you wanted to mod the front cover, oil pump, and replace the intake manifold. A stage 1 would be an easier choice and has the bosses to be drilled and tapped for the extra bolts. The deck on a 6109 is thin.

 

[ALVAROG1983]

not to hijack but now that we are on the subject i had a problem once that i never figured out when i would start my car at a cold start as the temp climb and water would start spilling out of the reservoir then i would push the gas pedal quick and the temp would drop down 180 from 200 and water would stop spilling out and yes i did the following thermostat,radi,headgasket rjc,re torque, etc never know what the fu@k it was .

 

[S10xGN]

...The Felpro head gasket is the only one we have found not needing re-torque if installed properly.

Nick, got a part number for those FelPro's? I might be pulling my motor down for an R&R this fall...

 

[Nick Micale]

Nick, got a part number for those FelPro's? I might be pulling my motor down for an R&R this fall...

The Felpro head gasket is no. 9441 PT.

Since this should not affect any Buick vendor, I order mine from Rock Auto on-line.

They should have "fresh" stock, since I have ordered a dozen from them in the past couple months.

Hope the original poster that started this thread does not get upset about being a little off-topic, if so I am sorry, but I want to add our simple method for install.

With moly lube on the ARP washers [bolts or studs], and sealer on the threads, we torque to 70 ft-lbs. This is done in 25-50-75 ft-lb increments, and in sequence by the Buick manual or others. About 20-30 minutes later, go over them again pulling to 70 ft-lbs.

After 12-24 hours, pull to 70 ft-lbs again and do NOT ever loosen until the heads needs to come off again.

Others may have a different routine, this is what we have used for years. Being "different" does not make it right or wrong.:smile:

 

[Razor]

I'd put a new radiator cap on it first. Then I would see if the reservoir gets anything pushed put under extended normal driving. If the head is lifting it will push air into the cooling system. This air will cuase it to cavitate and overheat.. it will progressively get worse over time.

I had a semi-blown cometic once and the car would overheat after being on the highway 40 minutes.