Cost of Rebuild
- Thread starter RKNTRBO
- Start date
That is a difficult question to answer without more information. Will you be able to reuse the pistons? Does the crank need to turned? Will the mains and rods need to be re-sized? Is the block square? You see it goes on and on. Is this a street car?
Jeff
Jeff
Brer Rabbit
Pursuit Specialist
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2005
Try this
Contact the machine shop U will be using and ask for a price list. Then figure out worst case scenario. Thats gonna be the big factor because here in Chicago we have two very good machine shops that are close to me but they have very different pricing. One place is about half the cost of the other. Unfortunately, when I built my motor I didnt know about the cheaper shop :frown: .
Contact the machine shop U will be using and ask for a price list. Then figure out worst case scenario. Thats gonna be the big factor because here in Chicago we have two very good machine shops that are close to me but they have very different pricing. One place is about half the cost of the other. Unfortunately, when I built my motor I didnt know about the cheaper shop :frown: .
$4100 is what its costing me as we speak:
Comp roller cam, probe pistons, stock rods reconditioned, crank turned, decked and bored/honed with plate, oil pump and cover set up, balanced, ARP bolts through out, performance valve job w/new guides, MLS gaskets and balancer notched at 25ATDC.
all done by the best shop in my area of NC.
Comp roller cam, probe pistons, stock rods reconditioned, crank turned, decked and bored/honed with plate, oil pump and cover set up, balanced, ARP bolts through out, performance valve job w/new guides, MLS gaskets and balancer notched at 25ATDC.
all done by the best shop in my area of NC.
artrenee10
Older...wiser...and broker...
- Joined
- Jul 23, 2002
Figure on a budget of at least 5,000....to get it done right..
2QUICK2B6
Black Car Fever
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2004
Make sure you get a Buick guy to build it. I would agree on the 5k or more for a decent build
you can get a basic figure here Jack Merkel Performance Engines Inc.
i would say 5 grand is way over what it would cost to do a stock rebuild. Stock rebuild 2 grand if the crank rods and heads are good. now if u want billet caps,ported heads,stronger bolts, new pistons, better rods,girdle, roller cam then the price will be over 5k
All depends....
Are you going to be building it yourself?
Heres a good basic rebuild kit eBay Motors: 231 Turbo Buick forged engine kit TRW pistons (item 320065316641 end time Aug-23-07 10:40:05 PDT)
With this kit I would add:ARP studs/bolts,roller cam(no flat tappet), a rebuilt front cover,and about $1k in machine work.
Also,this company Weberracing.net - Weber Racing Equipment Inc. offers a ready to build block for $1050.
Im currently building a full race engine and im at about $14k so far and its stock stroke!!Stuff can add up quick!
Are you going to be building it yourself?
Heres a good basic rebuild kit eBay Motors: 231 Turbo Buick forged engine kit TRW pistons (item 320065316641 end time Aug-23-07 10:40:05 PDT)
With this kit I would add:ARP studs/bolts,roller cam(no flat tappet), a rebuilt front cover,and about $1k in machine work.
Also,this company Weberracing.net - Weber Racing Equipment Inc. offers a ready to build block for $1050.
Im currently building a full race engine and im at about $14k so far and its stock stroke!!Stuff can add up quick!
Yes, forged pistons, billet caps, roller cam, etc. The cost of the build dosent faze me, but the cost of everthing else does-new turbo, trans, front mount, champ heads, etc., etc. will put my bill to around $15,000.
I remember my first car when I was 16 a 1968 AMX and it cost me about $7,000 total to redo the car.
I remember my first car when I was 16 a 1968 AMX and it cost me about $7,000 total to redo the car.
Yes, forged pistons, billet caps, roller cam, etc. The cost of the build dosent faze me, but the cost of everthing else does-new turbo, trans, front mount, champ heads, etc., etc. will put my bill to around $15,000.
I remember my first car when I was 16 a 1968 AMX and it cost me about $7,000 total to redo the car.
$7,000, I won't say how old I am but it cost me $8000 to have Mickey Thompson build me a super stocker and that was everything, Engine, Tranny, Everything all the way to the wheels, Tires, Shocks, Ready to run, I took him a new car and he gave me back a NHRA SS/EA, Oh and I turned down a 1970 Hemi Cuda for $2450, Told him it was $50 to much, I am thinking of having my GN engine built this winter
that faseter you want to go the more money its going to cost you. Also the safer you want to be the more its going to cost you. Doing the motor twice because you didnt take it to someone who knows how to build buick motors is going to cost you double.
Turbo6Smackdown
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2005
Yep. Either 2200 now, and then, 6500 later (cuz when a cap let go, your rod broke in half, cuz it wanted to carve its name in the cylinder wall. but when you told it no, it got furious, and started banging its head against the bottom of the heads.) So now your crank, block, piston, rod, and that part of the head is worthless.
Trust me, you WILL want to go faster one day. You WILL put a bigger turbo on your car one day or another. And when that day comes, and something goes tits up, you better have what it takes. Cuz when one of these high horsepower V6's let go, they really let go.
Just go ahead and do the billet caps, roller cam/lifters, double roller timing chain, forged pistons/rods, ARP studs throughout, and balanced and blueprinted. I was lookin at a stock rebuild with roller cam from Jack Cotton, and I forget what his ballpark was, but it was something like 4 grand I think. (my memory is horrible) But it was a lot more than what I had thought. But I'm just stick and tired of playin games. I want a bulletproof bottom end, So I will have to just suck it up for now. I HATE to fork out 8 grand, but like they say, "pay now, or pay more later..." And I'm not pullin my engine out 5 or 6 times cuz of some stupid s**t. Screw that. My car's too nice. I'm pullin it one time, and one time only. Period. After jack puts it in, it's stayin in. Think about that the next time you're eye fu**in that next dual ballbearing 88mm turbo that sucks in small animals on spoolup. Dont be the man thinking "god i wish I had saved up just one more summer, and sprung for those billet main caps and forged pistons/rods..."
Trust me, you WILL want to go faster one day. You WILL put a bigger turbo on your car one day or another. And when that day comes, and something goes tits up, you better have what it takes. Cuz when one of these high horsepower V6's let go, they really let go.
Just go ahead and do the billet caps, roller cam/lifters, double roller timing chain, forged pistons/rods, ARP studs throughout, and balanced and blueprinted. I was lookin at a stock rebuild with roller cam from Jack Cotton, and I forget what his ballpark was, but it was something like 4 grand I think. (my memory is horrible) But it was a lot more than what I had thought. But I'm just stick and tired of playin games. I want a bulletproof bottom end, So I will have to just suck it up for now. I HATE to fork out 8 grand, but like they say, "pay now, or pay more later..." And I'm not pullin my engine out 5 or 6 times cuz of some stupid s**t. Screw that. My car's too nice. I'm pullin it one time, and one time only. Period. After jack puts it in, it's stayin in. Think about that the next time you're eye fu**in that next dual ballbearing 88mm turbo that sucks in small animals on spoolup. Dont be the man thinking "god i wish I had saved up just one more summer, and sprung for those billet main caps and forged pistons/rods..."
