Phoneguy
Cometic HG stress tester
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2002
Cost to Paint our cars?
- Thread starter GangsterMD
- Start date
Blown&Injected
Active Member
- Joined
- May 31, 2001
Your car required an all over. The insurance co will say that they only fix what damage was done. The proper answer is that the car's paint matched before - how do you propose to make it match after your proposed repair?
They are to make you whole again and it is impossible to hit that point exactly so they will take the low road claiming that you will be enriched above and beyond your position immediately before the accident. However, their solution does not make you whole again if the car's paint does not match so their plan is not good enough by the standards that they themselves play by. There is a cash depreciation amount that is often issued to settle such differences as even a new car, where the paint will match, has a reduced value after an accident and repair.
I talked to Mr. bodyman today. He says he will "seal" the doors, fenders, etc. Is that good? What is sealer? Can it be sanded like primer? Is it as good or better than primer? Thanks to everyone for their help. Oh, does the paint get wet sanded or the clear? Or both?
sealer is good you want that. you can wet sand sealer but alot of people don't. you use sealer over primer. most primers out there are primer/ sealer any way look at my slide show it show all the steps. you will see the car in the garage getting a different shade of gray thats the sealer. if you want to go all out you can put self etching primer down on the bare metal. the way it should go but no one does it is bare metal, self etching primer, primer, then sealer then basecoat, then clear coat. you only wet sand the clear coat not the base coat. if you use the stuff i told you about you dont have to clear the car. its shines in one step. you wet sand the clear if your going that way with 1500 grit then 2000 then 2500 and if you want to get a show car shine go to 3000. then buff the car. if you get a run do you know how to fix that. you most likely will get one your first time but is not a big deal. rember when you spray the car alway use a 50 percent over lap on each pass. never stop painting in the center of the pannel go all the way. if your going to wet sand all the way to 3000 put 3 coats rather than just 2. i put 4 on my car but i wet sanded between coat for a starter i would not do it like me with 4 coats. also buy wax and grease remover and a tack cloth. you dont want to get fish eyes and dust in the paint.
I'll watch your video again. The duplicolor video shows how you start spraying before you get to the car, continue walking through out the pass, then release the gun after you passed the car. Thanks for the 50% tip. I didn't know that. Can't paint until it warms up here, maybe in April. I have lots of time to learn!
mikemcvaney
Active Member
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2009
I would start off with 800 -1000 grit on the wet sand to get the paint flat. mike
if you dont do this you can get zebra stripes.
You only use 800 if you have bad orange peel. It cuts too much you will have to buff the car forever to get those scratches out. Never go below 1000 on a clear coat. If you must I would use 1200. The only reason you would have to use 800 is if the paint looks like you rolled it on with a paint roller. I have done show cars; most of the cars I docome out of the gun flat that most people would be happy with. I never go below 1500 on clear unless i get a run.
mikemcvaney
Active Member
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2009
didnot say to wet sand hard been doing bodywork25 years last time Iwas at the world of wheels 5cars were there I worked on an 1 car alone got five trophies by itself. dont like to wet sand my aA_ _ off thats the fasest way Ihave foun it leaves zero peel not saying Im right and your wrong just to guys doing things differant to gat the same effect a flawless shine .Mike
i just talked to a older guy who does body work and paints he told me thats how they did it back in the day. so your right. i just know with the newer finishes it is way different than the lacquer base paint most older people are use too. i know you get the best finish if you start with 1500 and go up to 3000. most of the time the paint is flat right out of the gun for me. so your right its who you talk to. everyone has there own way. i just dont like spend major hours buffing out heavy scratchs.
Blown&Injected
Active Member
- Joined
- May 31, 2001
Sealer is a wet on wet process. The SPI Epoxy, reduced 50% can be used as a sealer. It is sprayed just before going to the base coat
christian237
New Member
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2009
I paid 1550 for mine. It took over 4 months I told him to take his time no rush.both passenger and driver floors had a fist size rott.he covered a whole were the fuel pressure gauge was mounted after sanding down the car he found more rust along the edge of the hoodand the trunk lip was was rusty/rotted on the edge he sanded down the bumpers and repainted them he also took out the front seats and cut out the carpet when he took care of the floors he removed and painted all the moldings.he used jet black dupont paint and gloss.the paint comes with a 4 yr warrenty for chipping cracking bubles and that's all I remember. The negative stuff I notice is a little paint run above the driverside rear wheels 3 pin sized spots on the trunk were u can still see the primer. But I'm freeking happy.. all the negatives r getting taken care of when I take it back he said 1 to 2 days tops.right now the car is at hyetek getting some final things instaled. In the past year that I've owned it I only had it in my possesion 3 day and can't wait to get it back I will post pics when I get a chance if u like
"More Boost"
Major Member
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2005
yes, we would like :biggrin:
Well, I intended to practice on my spare hood and trunk lid. Now I ran across a 1979 Riviera, owned by a bodyshop of all places. It is in primer and just needs paint and brake lines. No rust. The car runs, has a 350 V-8. Air Conditioning and heat work. Interior was all redone 2 months ago, new $100 steering wheel, some kind of chrome Buick rims. Price is $700! Apparently this is the first year for front wheel drive Riviera. Headed out the door now to look at it, about 25 miles from my home. Here is a pic of one I found on the internet:
1979 Buick Riviera
Would this make a good car to practice on? Maybe the owner will get me the paint at his cost, give me tips, who knows.
1979 Buick Riviera
Would this make a good car to practice on? Maybe the owner will get me the paint at his cost, give me tips, who knows.
The car had 140k miles. Owner painted cars for 30+ years. He used Dupont primer (kind of a yellow color) that he said was the best. He said it might need a little more sanding, then paint. Interior was like new. Light tan, real plush. Looks to be well worth the money. We talked for 2 hours. He showed me his collection of spray guns, paint booth, etc. He is also the original owner of a 1970 Riviera Stage 1. It was sitting there under boxes. Needs paint. I wonder what that is worth? He wishes he had bought a Skylark 455 Stage1. Oh well, too late now.
christian237
New Member
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2009
mikemcvaney
Active Member
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2009
Ido everything by hand hate not hand sanded cars think they look like crap by the way Im doing this on modern paint and was turned on to it from a PPG Paint rep . Have not shot laquer paint in20 years . You just hit the paint lightly to take off any dust or imperfections it does not take much or you will have seriuos scratches it takes practice Mike
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