couple of questions on a lt1 and 4l60 swap

[82grandBeast]

i was thinking about putting a lt1 eng,and 4l60 trans in my 82 grand national comes complete with the wiring harness i was wondering how hard this would be to do and how much fabrication i would have to do to do this swap

 

[jdhogg1]

It wouldn't be bad. 305 motor mounts and 700 transmount/ crossmember is needed to put it in.

 

[82grandBeast]

really thats it and then all the wiring and ecm and the drive shaft and all that lines up

 

[jdhogg1]

I don't know about the driveshaft b/c the one you have is probably for the 200. As for wiring, your non computer harness just wires to those sensors (temp, etc.) and then whatever you're using for the computer. I use DFI. Or you can go carbureted with a GM performance intake and drop a standard distributor in it.

 

[82grandBeast]

oh okay i see what ur saying see the lt1 is coming out off a 96 trans am

 

[BeanSS]

Sorry to grave dig but Im doing thie same thing (See the sig! )
I was wondering more about turbo charging with this engine? What did you go with? Or anybody else who went LT1? The heads I have and intake have already been ported to the specs of Llyods stage 1 set up...should I even go to 2 if I plan on turbo charging the car? Im not going to the track anytime soon...just love having a fast car

 

[jdhogg1]

I'm very happy with the LT1. I have a stock crank and eagle rods with a studded 2 bolt main and 11.75:1 compression and it LOVES boost. I run between 6-9 lbs of boost on a 60-1 with alcohol injection.

Not sure on my dyno numbers yet, but with 4.10 gears my brakes being unable to hold the car for staging (going to upgrade to LS1's) I made a 12.30 pass at 118mph. That's leaving on 10" of vacuum and not really into boost until 3rd!

My GN has a Jimmy's 200, fuel pump, 009's, PI Front Mount, TT chip and TA-51 at 20-22#'s of boost, and the Iroc makes the GN feel like a Ford Escort.

I'm also going to drop my gears down to a 3.42 or 3.73 to take better advantage of the boost- just have to wait for the cashflow to do it.

 

[dyrt]

one thing to keep in mind is whether or not you want to keep the a/c in the car. i decided to so i used the rear motor plate bosses on the block and drilled new holes in the front crossmember i believe 1 inch back and it all bolted down after heating up the frame where the pulley hit and banged it in with a ball peen hammer. used the stock 307 radiator so i had to piece together a lower hose using a copper joint but it has held up fine. used a stock roadmaster in-tank fuel pump and a FI gn tank. also, used a t-350 or t-200 trans crossmember and i think i just had to file the hole out rearward for the trans mount stud to clear. had a stock driveshaft cut down to length. mounted fuse block between a/c and coolant tank and the pcm in the driver side battery tray under the air cleaner that i had behind those headlights. if you want to use a mechanical speedo you will have to modify the tailshaft so it can provide both mech and vss. MAKE SURE YOU WIRE THE ALTERNATOR TO THE BATTERY LIGHT IN THE DASH. This seems to be one of the number one problems people have with the swap since if you don't do that or at least add an inline resistor and take it to switched power, you will kill batteries and alternators. There is lots of info on this swap in g-body pages as well as f-body pages so good luck!

 

[BeanSS]

thanks fellas glad I asked! Im definitely going thru with the LT1..I can grab one of those motors for cheap (Well all I need is a short block) Im keeping a/c for sure!
Im on the look out for headers as well so I'll poke around that direction next