Crank sensor connector pins

turbota440

Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2007
Question on the crank sensor connector wires. A pin B pin C pin
I have seen schematic on here somewhere where A is 12 volt B is signal and C is ground. But the wires I have on a cut off pig tail are A is green wire , B is black wire, and forgot but maybe grey wire with stripe for C.
You would think blk wire would ground at B and grey might be signal at C.
What is correct position on 87 GN ?
 
IMG_20150203_190408.jpg
 
the one i posted
86 and 87 changed a couple of wire colors
go by the pin from the ignition module to the pin at the crank connector and ignore the colors
F>C
G >B
H >A
 
the one i posted
86 and 87 changed a couple of wire colors
go buy the pin from the ignition module to the pin at the crank connector and ignore the colors
F>C
G >B
H >A
Ok thank you. Do you know what car the other one is for?
 
heres another to compare , like the last one its from the 87 service manual

ecmmodulewiring.jpg
 
Yes it is.
Here's one from caspers website,it matches the one that pacecarta posted
http://installationinstructions.com/FYI/ccci-info.pdf
That's good.
I'm building a short block with new forged crank, billet rods and custom pistons. Using a BHJ Dampner. So I have confirmed that TDC mark on Dampner is of by 2 degrees in reference to timing tang? Will fix.
But what I'm trying to figure out next is at what timing degree is the crank sensor picking up a signal with the trigger wheel as installed by BHJ. I'm doing this on an engine stand and not in the car. That's the reason for the wiring orientation question. Thanks again.
 
when you get it all together using the new zero on the balancer check the timing with a timing light
 
when you get it all together using the new zero on the balancer check the timing with a timing light
I will but for now while I can easily remove Dampner I'm going to use a volt meter in same way we check for cam reference signal.
 
you need to have it running , only other way is to check the ring position compared to a stocker , in the end with a bhj or any other aftermarket balancer (aspecially the BHJ) youll still wan to see where its at once its running , with fast or xfi you can correct it in the tune by adjusting the base timing degrees ,with a chip like the tt chip he can fix the chip
 
and you shouldnt be able to easily remove a bhj , its supposed to be a .001" interference fit and require a balancer installer to install and a puller to remove
 
you need to have it running , only other way is to check the ring position compared to a stocker , in the end with a bhj or any other aftermarket balancer (aspecially the BHJ) youll still wan to see where its at once its running , with fast or xfi you can correct it in the tune by adjusting the base timing degrees ,with a chip like the tt chip he can fix the chip
Correct on the fit of the balancer but much easier to remove and maybe correct without taking the front of the engine apart when it's running. Eyeballed stocker and BHJ and I think there is a difference. I have no fixture for comparison purposes. But how do we know that the factory one is correct unless I had tested it with a timing light previously, which I did not. You don't think if I slowly turn the crank by hand like turning the cam sensor and seeing when the voltage change occurs and then looking at timing tag would be accurate ?
 
Oh and I'm still running factory ecu with extender chip so is there a way for me to adjust the timing or does it go back for recalibration ?
 
Well looks like BHJ must have corrected their fixture. Timing comes right about 10 deg. Did it very slowly in both directions since only thing in the block is the crank and one piston with no rings.
One other point of interest that threw me for a loop is that you have to put the negative lead of the volt meter to signal lead to see the voltage drop.
Thanks for all that replied.
 
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