Use a noid light for the injectors, while cranking engine.
The model above can also check the IAC for signal.
If you have no flashing SES light, it is possible you have a poorly seated chip, bad chip, improper chip for application, or other ECM related issue. Older cars with original ECM sometimes have corrosion on connectors at the ECM, or poor connection. A leaking T-top, window seal, prior leaking heater core sometimes spits fluid onto the top of the ECM and causes corrosion that can cause all manner of problems. It's a relatively easy thing to verify.
If the injectors aren't spitting out fuel, car will not start.
If the cam sensor reluctor tab has broken and the wheel is just spinning, the car will not start. Common problem. Easy fix if you have the repair kit. Cam sensor cap comes off easily enough, do NOT remove the actual cam sensor in this case, just see if the reluctor tab has broken and if the wheel just flops around or spins around with gentle pressure on it.
I would focus on why no fuel seems to be coming out of injectors. The no SES light flashing when you key ignition on is a problem... Hopefully, you know what the SES light is... It's the flashing "Service engine soon" light when you key on ignition, and not the "Security" light... If you have a Scanmaster or OBD scanner, any codes you have should pop up. Otherwise, old school it and jumper the A and B terminals on the ALDL connector and see if there are any codes stored. The old GNTTYPE website has a bunch of diagnostic trees and other info that can help guide you.
Anyway, Noid light verifies signal, and wet plugs and/or dropping fuel pressure while cranking using a good quality FP gauge can help narrow down problem. There are cheap fuel injector testers that produce fake pulsewidth to injector through the connector to verify if the injector can even pulse or is locked up (should be loud clicking, with car turned off..) Any injector that doesn't click is bad. If the injectors are still on the rail, the fake pulsewidth signal will also make the injector work and reduce fuel pressure at the rail, which is verifiable with a good quality FP gauge.
Hopefully, you figure it out. It's easy to get frustrated. If you plan on keeping the car, it's very worthwhile to get a Scanmaster, a FP gauge, a noid light, a multi-meter, and some kind of spark checker. These basic tools will help you figure out a ton of issues that can crop up, and make it easier to buy just what is needed to fix it all up.